How to increase the clearance in the field. What is the danger of a lift for an off-road vehicle? What is required for work
It becomes possible to install a wheel with a radius of 31 inches, which is considered optimal for overcoming Niva 2121 most of the obstacles encountered. Also, the angles of entry and exit of the off-road vehicle from obstacles, the radii of the longitudinal and transverse cross-country ability of the car are also increased. Sometimes only the front of the Niva is lifted, since the size of the "apple" rear axle small. It is this half of the car that accounts for 64-67% of its total weight.
When the structure is lifted, the clearance on the bridges increases slightly, except when a more expensive and complex modification is performed - the installation of portal bridges.
The service life of the body is also increased, the protection of mechanisms from damage is improved. On the other hand, if you plan to participate in rally raids, you will have to take care of enhanced crankcase protection.
There are two ways to perform a car lift.
- Body lift. In this case, the car body is raised above the wheel axles with the help of stands for it, hose refinement, etc. This option is not suitable for the Niva 2121, since its design does not include a frame. As an option, you can trim the wheel arches, which will allow you to place wheels of a larger radius in them. In this case, it is additionally possible to cut off the edges of the arches damaged by rust. The clearance at the same time increases within 4-5 cm.
- Suspension lift. It is more attractive to increase the cross-country ability of the car. We “raise” the whole car without cutting the arches, due to spacers and washers for shock absorbers, installing enlarged springs on them. In this case, the clearance can be increased already by 5-8 cm.
Sometimes both the first and second methods are combined. This increases the cost of tuning, but allows you to raise the body by a significant amount.
The simplest, safest and most cost-effective Niva 2121 lift is the installation of rubber spacers over the suspension springs.
To increase the clearance by 1.5 cm, it is enough to install K-139 rubber, the size of which is an inch larger than the factory one. Don't chase heights. With a high lift, you can “break” the spar or axle shafts. It also increases the risk of the vehicle tipping over.
Minuses
With a suspension lift, the load and slope of some shafts increase, CV joints (especially internal ones), factory anthers, a driveshaft cross and other elements of mechanisms wear out faster. Therefore, motorists with such tuning change the internal anthers on the speed joints to the external ones, install new CV joints (in the old balls they leave the accumulated place and wear it out quickly), the gearbox front axle lowered by 1 cm, untied from the bridge. This reduces the angle of the hinges.
In addition, such a lift raises the center of gravity of the Niva. And this entails a decrease in its stability (in particular, large body rolls when cornering), deterioration in performance when driving on paved areas. Changes in driving conditions and vehicle dimensions must be taken into account when driving in order to avoid accidents.
It is worth remembering that a significant increase in wheel alignment requires careful adjustment of their camber and convergence. If the standard range is not enough for this, you have to make new improvements to the design.
When lifting the Niva, it is very important not to unbalance the entire structure (we lift the mounts, springs and shock absorbers only at equal, verified distances). This tuning beginners can not always achieve.
After lifting the elevator on the Niva, it’s just right to forget about alloy wheels, you can only install stamped ones.
The use of a larger diameter of the wheels leads to a change (increase) in the torque, which means that the gear ratios of the gearbox change. Therefore, sometimes the car owner is added to the rear axle samoblok (slip differential).
Ready kits
A complete set of industrial parts for lifting Niva 2121 (and other models different years release) can be purchased at car dealerships. They include shock spacers, longer and stiffer shock springs, improved, adjustable rods and rods, hose brackets, etc. None additional details for such tuning a car does not need to be purchased. If you do not want to use a ready-made kit, you can make the necessary parts yourself. True, this will significantly increase the time spent on finalizing the Niva design.
The improved suspension can be seen in the following photos.
We figured out how to raise Niva 2121 with our own hands. The determining factor when lifting a car is the required size (and rubber profile) of the wheels to be installed. It is on the basis of their size that you need to adjust the cutting of the arches or the suspension moves. If you first raised the Niva, then it will be much more difficult to pick up the wheels.
For lovers of hunting, fishing and country trips, as well as those who want to try themselves and their "Niva" in driving in difficult places, we can offer to increase ground clearance, due to which the cross-country ability of your car increases.
To date, there are at least six options for lifting the suspension of the Niva and Sh / Niva, each of which is interesting in its own way and is negotiated in the process of preparing the car for "no-good" at the request of the client, taking into account the features of the operation of his car and the sizes of disks and rubber that he wants to put on his car. We often take as a basis a set from the Russian club "Korovka". This lift kit is manufactured at the factory and has been tested at competitions in Russia. The ground clearance is increased by 5 cm, which makes it possible to install R15 235/75 or R16 235/70 tires (on the correct rims). In turn, this will give rise to another 4 cm. In total, the increase in ground clearance will be 9-10 cm! In this version, "NIVA" without loss of comfortable qualities can be operated both on the paved road and off-road, in no way inferior to foreign-made jeeps. Thus, at the lower point of the REM, the clearance is 25 cm, and at the threshold cut - 44.5 cm.
On the front:
The lift is carried out by installing directional washers under the lower platform of the spring (they create the required angle of the front spring).
Under the upper lever (between it and the ball) one more spacer washer is placed (thus we unload the lever).
The levers of the steering knuckles are interchanged and the tie rod ends already go from top to bottom (because after the work carried out earlier, when the traction is fully inverted, it will rest against the stabilizer, although at the request of the client it can be left as it was by changing the stabilizer mount). When carrying out lifting work, it is often necessary to change shock absorbers, springs, cuts on request. spacers, anthers of internal cv joints for tuning suspensions modified for this type of lift and to make adjustments. spring breakers.
On the back:
The lift is carried out by installing new cups rear springs, which are mounted on top of the regular ones with bolts, and brackets for moving the mounting points of the rear shock absorbers up by 5 cm (attached with bolts).
The short upper rods of the rear axle are lengthened or made adjustable (for an easy turn of the shank, so as not to bite the frog), the rear axle jet rods are either reinforced with an angle or doubled, at the request of the client, the rear axle stabilizer Tekhnomaster (Tolyatti) is added, but it is necessary fit under the lift machine, digest.
The panhard rod or transverse rod is made split with an adjusting clutch (it is better to put it on the stand at the razvalchik, because when lifting the Z. the bridge not only moves forward, but also goes to the side).
If necessary, a longer brake hose is installed, the brakes are bled, the rear spool is adjusted and the spring strikers are adjusted. It is also desirable, on lifted cars, to use a rear CV joint.
For those who will lift old or shabby cars, you must constantly remember about the internal CV joints (the balls leave the accumulated place), you must be prepared to replace them. The solution to this problem is possible by reducing the angle of the drive by untying the front axle.
External CV joints are little affected by this, it will be worse for them if the wheel is with an increased offset, width and weight, then they can also “crunch”. Although then the hub bearing also has a hard time, especially if he had play before that. But we got away from this problem. we install knuckles with two ball bearings (from the rear axle shaft), they do not need to be adjusted, they are tightened to the stop, but better with a torque wrench. The node turns out to be unattended, the hub is unloaded, it is easier to roll over and the dynamics of the car is better. Knuckles of course Russian production and with a guarantee.
When installing wide wheels after the lift, it is necessary to remember about the ball ones (if the weak ones will “fly”), the pendulum can also fly, and the installation of new gas shock absorbers entails strengthening the upper bracket of the front shock absorber (otherwise it tears, especially when the front end is heavier), you can reinforce and mount the rear shock absorbers. It is advisable to change the suspension to p / urethane, instead of rubber, when lifting.
In another way, an increase in ground clearance is called an elevator, and this is done not only because of beauty, for an SUV this is a “life” issue. It is the distance from the bottom to the ground that determines the patency of the machine. Lifting is divided into two large groups: body and suspension-oriented. The first option is easier and safer. During the body increase in ground clearance, the center of gravity of the car practically does not change, and therefore the handling does not change, besides, even an elementary washer can be used here as a spacer.
by the most simple option increasing ground clearance for the Niva is the installation of metal spacers under the springs of the front and rear suspension, we put the front springs from the Volga car, and we buy rear shock absorbers with an increased stroke, for example, from the GAZelle. Such tuning of the Niva suspension is the most primitive and the result is the same. The main advantage of such a lifting is the immutability of the center of gravity of the machine. In other parameters, there are continuous minuses, for example, the maximum working angle is set in CV joints, and this leads to their rapid wear. Anthers will also quickly tear, as they are in a constantly taut position. We want to get the maximum effect and at the same time minimize the depletion of the suspension resource. To do this, we will start lifting by installing larger wheels and only after that we will refine the suspension elements. However, install big wheels not so easy. The first problem is the small size of the wheel arches, rubber may not fit there. You can solve the problem in an elementary way, take a grinder and cut out excess metal. Only in this case you need to be extremely careful so as not to cut off anything superfluous.
Another point - when you turn the Niva wheel, the rubber will cling to the body. The simplest solution is to put rims with increased overhang, but in this way we create an additional problem for ourselves - the load on the wheel bearings changes, they begin to wear out. When choosing large wheels for the Niva, keep in mind that the engine has a certain power limit, so if you put too big wheels, then the SUV may simply not budge. The maximum increase in wheels is 25 percent of the original size. Now let's move on to the suspension. In front of the Niva, we raise the lower platforms of the springs, this is done by installing spacers. This increases the load on the upper arms of the front suspension. In order to prevent their premature wear, the increased load is directed to the levers that we mount between them and the ball ones. Now the tie rods will rest against the stabilizer, so we will need to swap the steering knuckle levers and turn the tie rod ends. However, the tuning of the Niva has not yet been completed. We need to change shock absorbers, springs, RTI, rubber anthers internal grenades and adjust the spring breakers. As for the Niva rear suspension, here we mount new rear spring cups and shock absorber mounting brackets. In addition, you will have to lengthen the upper rods of the rear axle.
The domestic SUV VAZ "Niva" is an excellent analogue of modern imported SUVs and even some all-wheel drive jeeps. This car was originally distinguished by its light weight, high ground clearance and high maintainability. However, for more confident off-road driving, some car owners make their own suspension lift. "Niva" after that rises another ten centimeters and is able to overcome a lot of obstacles.
In addition, due to the increased ground clearance, motorists have the opportunity to install mud off-road tires larger diameter. And today we will look at how to make a do-it-yourself suspension lift on the Niva VAZ.
Making a choice
To increase, it is best to use the factory lift kit and follow the instructions that came with it. In this case, in order to make a suspension lift, the Niva (VAZ-2121) will be upgraded for no more than 1 day. 
But you can go the other way - to make such parts yourself. So you can customize the Niva to your individual needs, which cannot be done already with a factory kit.
Tools
In order to produce a suspension lift (“Chevy Niva” diesel) on our own, we need to prepare the following set of spare parts:
- Set of front and rear springs. Here, parts 31.5 centimeters long and 1.57 centimeters thick fit perfectly on the Chevrolet Niva. You can buy springs and another parameter - it all depends on your taste.
- Rubber spacers with metal cups. We will install them under the springs.
- shock absorbers. As practice shows, the most suitable for Niva are products of the Premium and Excel-G brands. But again, it all depends on what kind of suspension stiffness you want to get in the end.
- Spacers for upper ball joint. They can hardly be found in the store, so it would be wiser to order them from a familiar turner. The thickness of the spacers is about 2-3 centimeters. In this case, the brackets under will have to be made by hand.
- Enlarged washers under the cup. Their inner diameter should be 1 centimeter, outer - 3 centimeters. In total, we need 12 such washers.
- Under the top and the cup, special elongated bolts should be purchased. Here, parts from the G8 muffler (M8x65) and from the VAZ suspension arm M10x75x1.25 6 and 4 units, respectively, are suitable.
- Several jacks, couplers for springs and boards for lining.
About spacers
Spacers for the rear shock absorbers should be made by hand. If this is not done, the shock absorber will not move up. They can be made from an ordinary metal corner. From above, weld a 36-mm sleeve with an inner diameter of 13.2 mm to it. At the same time, its thickness should be about 32 millimeters. After all this, you can begin to make a suspension lift.
"Niva". Do-it-yourself chassis lifting: front suspension
We will divide the whole work into two parts. At the first stage, we will modernize the front suspension, at the second - the rear. So, let's get to work. First, remove the wheels and release the silent blocks. Next, we install a jack under the ball joint, put a board under the latter and raise the car until the spring is compressed. After that, we install the ties on the spring, tighten it and unscrew the shock absorber mount. Next, remove the lower and upper ball joints and remove the stabilizer. Release the lever and remove the spring. How is the suspension lift done next? "Niva" remains motionless for the time being, and at this time we turn aside and put it on a stand. It is important not to damage the brake hoses. 
Next, bend the bumper. Several extreme bolts (which are located at the wheel) are changed to elongated ones. Now it is necessary to install spacers from the washers prepared by us between the cup and the lever. Next, we install special rubber spacers with steel cups. We mount the spring. It is important to correctly install them relative to each other. Then the lever must be jacked up. Install stabilizer and lower ball joint. We mount the upper ball joint through a spacer. Screw on shock absorbers. Then we fix the hub in place and put on the wheel in order to remove the jacks. Everything, now we have finally finalized the front suspension.
"Niva". Rear suspension upgrade
Now we move on to the second stage of our lifting work - rear suspension upgrades. Here you need to prepare a semi-automatic welding machine, and drive the car itself into a viewing hole. The first step here is to install a few more cups under the springs. These parts are mounted on top of the standard ones with bolts. The rear shock absorbers are installed as a set with brackets in place and additionally welded. As a result, it will move forward and to the side. To prevent this, it is necessary to lengthen all existing traction (including the transverse one). 
The lower cup is cut off and shifted by one and a half to two centimeters. At the same time, it must be moved so as not to touch or break the cross of the cardan shaft. We also weld new cups with a semi-automatic welding machine. This is necessary in order to keep the rear cross from damage while driving off-road. Next, we lengthen the rocker of the brake regulator. As a result, its length should be 30 millimeters longer than the standard.
Last steps
After that, we weld the fingers under the shock absorbers under the clamp of the steel brake tube. We attach shock absorbers and go to a car service for wheel alignment. Thus, you finally complete the debugging of the bridge. Everything, on this VAZ Niva car, the rear suspension has been successfully upgraded. As you can see, running gear lifting is quite possible to do in your own garage without the help of special tools. True, if you do not have a semi-automatic welding machine, you will have to buy or rent it, since an electric arc or inverter can burn through thin metal. Or choose a thinner electrode.
What is the danger of a lift for an off-road vehicle?
If you use this method of modernization, the suspension (Niva VAZ-2121 and Chevrolet Niva), of course, will become more reliable and suitable for off-road driving. However, along with this, you will have to forget about alloy wheels - only stamped ones can be installed on such a machine. At the same time, it is worth paying attention to the fact that increasing the diameter of the wheels will lead to more torque - then you will have to change the gear ratios of the main pairs. In addition, after such an upgrade, you will need to install a rear axle, and this is again an additional cost.
Also, when lifting, the break angle of the brake hoses and wires changes significantly, and the service life of the suspension parts will decrease by an order of magnitude, because now the car will be constantly subjected to enormous loads when driving off-road. However, on the other hand, the clearance of the Niva increases so much that you can easily install 33-inch wheels here (and this is instead of the regular 16-inch ones!) Without expanding the arches.
Conclusion
So, we found out how the rear and front suspension are being upgraded. 
"Niva" VAZ-2121 - this is the car on which it is not scary to experiment, so if you wish, you can increase the clearance at any time with your own hands.
For people who often encounter off-road conditions, the question of how to raise a Niva 2121 with your own hands never loses its relevance. Despite the fact that the model does not have a very modern look, the Niva is somewhat similar to a tank: it will crawl where a cool crossover of world brands gets stuck.
However, there are a lot of flaws in it, and therefore all hunters / fishermen / amateurs active rest tune the car in a variety of ways. And first of all - increase ground clearance. 22 cm is not so bad, but for real gullies and potholes it is clearly not enough. And, by the way, you can encounter them even when traveling to a dacha located 40 km from the city, so even an innocent Sunday picnic can please with extreme sports.
If you do not plan to conquer remote spaces, you will not need to bring air intake to the roof, hanging front and rear, installing winches - but it will never be superfluous.
How to raise a Niva 2121 with your own hands, craftsmen came up with at least 6 ways. Some are more successful, some are less, but all are used, and you can choose the one that suits you best.
Lifting Options
Increasing the clearance with wheel gears. The rarest way of lifting: they are not mass-produced, individual craftsmen make them from scratch. In addition, the use of such modernization in urban conditions is very difficult, it is only suitable for real field conditions.
- The lowering of the beam is aimed at obtaining the possibility of installing slopes with a large diameter. It is carried out in two ways: in the first, the second spars are welded, in the second, the beam is cut in the calculated place and a kind of extension is welded there. It entails the transfer of the helmsman;
- The simplest and most non-violating method is the direct installation of large wheels. Almost nothing needs to be re-equipped, only the arches need to be trimmed. After that, you don’t need to adjust the brakes, the camber / toe-in lasts a long time, driving the car is not complicated. Only a slight increase in clearance can be considered a disadvantage - within 4-5 cm, but for many this is enough;
- Those who do not have enough additives from large slopes lift the Niva with spacers above the upper ball joint in combination with changing the springs to stiffer / longer springs or with spacers for the spring cup.
The last way- the most popular. Firstly, some parts give a rise of about 5 cm, plus it automatically becomes possible to change tires to large sizes. In total, the clearance grows by 10 centimeters. With such a clearance, no ravines are already terrible. Moreover, lift kits for such modernization are produced by factories, which greatly facilitates the upgrade.
Front lift
In addition to the main work, you may have to change the springs, shock absorbers, anthers of the internal CV joints - it all depends on the degree of wear of the parts and your tuning requirements. Often, lifting is also accompanied by adjustment of the spring bumpers.
- Under the platform (lower) for the spring, appropriate washers are placed - the same spacers that will provide the necessary angles of inclination of the element;
- Between the ball and the lever on top you need another spacer. Its task is to unload the lever;
- The levers of the rotary cams are interchangeable, as a result of which the tips from the steering rods will go from top to bottom. Otherwise, at the maximum lapel, the rods will rest against the stabilizer. Alternatively, change the stabilizer mount.
rear lift
More reliable and simpler in execution is the lifting of the rear axle of the Niva with cups. They are bolted on top of the factory ones. In addition, brackets are added - they will raise centimeters by 5 attachment points for the rear shock absorbers.
- The upper rods will already be too short for the design. They are built up or converted into manageable ones;
- Rear axle jet thrust also needs to be improved. Most often they are simply reinforced with a corner, but sometimes they are changed to double ones. Enthusiasts can strengthen the system with a Togliatti stabilizing device, but this is another level of work: digestion will be required;
- The cross bar is modified to split, with adjustment;
- You may need to change the brake hose to a longer one. And without a doubt, bleeding the brakes and debugging the rear spool will be required.
