Monument to Griboyedov on clean ponds. Chistye Prudy monument to Griboyedov exit from the metro
Monument to A.S. Griboedov at Chistye Prudy, 1959, sculptor Apollon Alexandrovich Manuilov, architect Alexander Alekseevich Zavarzin.
A monument to the poet and playwright Alexander Sergeevich Griboyedov appeared in Moscow on the 130th anniversary of his tragic death in Persia. On January 30, 1829, thousands of rebellious Persians killed everyone in the embassy. Griboedov's body was so mutilated that he was identified only by a trace on his left hand, obtained during a duel with Yakubovich in 1818.
The monument was erected on Chistoprudny Boulevard, although the house where Alexander Sergeevich was born is actually more of a replica than the original (restoration in the 1970s, the fire that destroyed the top floor dates back to the same time) is located on Novinsky Boulevard. Economist B.L. Markus recalled: “Somewhere in the mid-thirties, a huge granite boulder was installed on the boulevard opposite the Griboyedov House. To me, a boy, he then seemed very big. Uncouth, rough, with a broad base and tapering towards the top. On the front side of this boulder, just above the middle, an uneven strip along the edges was polished, into which Griboedov's autograph signature was inscribed in deeply embedded letters. And nothing else. It doesn’t look like a monument, but I have already heard that the stone was put in this place because it is here that a real monument with the figure of Griboyedov himself will be erected in time.” However, later, the monument, as you know, was not erected at all on Novinsky Boulevard.
The monument on the boulevard is a figure of Griboyedov, mounted on a pedestal-column, thanks to which the image of the playwright looks very majestic and grand. At the bottom of the pedestal, the authors placed the heroes of not just the most famous play of the writer "Woe from Wit", but the one thanks to which Griboyedov is often called "the writer of one book." Pyotr Chaadaev wrote about the play that "never has a nation been so scourged, never has a country been dragged so in the mud, never has so much rude abuse thrown in the face of the public, and, however, never achieved a more complete success." The play was literally dismantled into quotes, and until now, any educated person can easily continue the phrases “everyone lies ....”, “bypass us more than all sorrows and ...”, “what a commission, Creator ...” and “happy hours ...”
By the way, Muscovites had a chance to meet not “at Griboedov's”, but “at Bakunin's”. In 1919, almost at the same place where the monument to Griboyedov now stands, another monument appeared - in the spirit of cubo-futurism - to the founder of anarchism, Mikhail Bakunin. Lunacharsky recalled: “For a long time, people and horses walking and riding along Myasnitskaya Street squinted timidly at some enraged figure, covered with boards as a precaution. It was Bakunin in the interpretation of a respected artist. If I am not mistaken, the monument was immediately destroyed by the anarchists after its opening, because, for all their superiority, the anarchists did not want to suffer such a sculptural “mockery” of the memory of their leader. About a month after the installation (according to other sources, a year later), the monument was demolished.
We continue our cycle of walks along the Boulevard Ring. Today we will walk along Chistoprudny, Pokrovsky and Yauzsky boulevards, get acquainted with their sights and history.
We will see the monument to A.S. Griboyedov, the Church of the Archangel Gabriel, the monument to Abai Kunanbaev and much more, we will visit Chisty Pond, surrounded by a picturesque park, and find out why a tram, marked not by a number, but by the letter "A" runs along the Boulevard Ring to this day.
We leave at the station"Clean Ponds".
If the metro clearly follow the signs "To Chistoprudny Boulevard", then we will find ourselves on Myasnitsky Gate Square, from which it starts.
Chistoprudny Boulevard begins with the monument to A.S. Griboyedov, an outstanding Russian diplomat and playwright, author of the immortal play Woe from Wit.
The pedestal of the monument is decorated with bas-reliefs depicting Chatsky, Famusov, Molchanov and other heroes of the play.
Behind the monument we have a view of Chistoprudny Boulevard.
But here it is worth making a reservation: since we are interested not only in the sights of the boulevard itself, but also in its environs, and the pedestrian part of the boulevard is fenced off from the carriageway by a cast-iron fence, we will move both along the pedestrian part and along the right and left sidewalks, in the right places crossing the road.
Let's start on the even side. A two-story beige building with sharp-angled turrets (house number 4) is an architectural monument of the 19th century.
Above its roof you can see the dome of the Orthodox Church. To inspect it, after house number 4 we turn into Arkhangelsky lane. The temple that opens before our eyes, the Church of the Archangel Gabriel, an architectural monument of the early 18th century.
This church is the only one in Moscow, made in the form of a tower. In the 18th century, it bore the unofficial name "Menshikov Tower" (since it was built by order of Prince Menshikov). There is even a plaque on the facade of the building, on which the name of the Temple is indicated: "The Church of the Archangel Gabriel. Menshikov Tower.
Now the tower has four floors. Initially, it was five-story, and above the fifth floor there was a spire with a clock and the figure of the Archangel Gabriel. At that time, the Menshikov Tower was the tallest church in Moscow, it was 3 meters higher than the Bell Tower of John of the Ladder (Ivan the Great) in the Moscow Kremlin.
But in 1723 lightning struck the spire of the tower, the wooden fifth floor burned down, the spire collapsed. Rumors immediately spread among the people that this was a heavenly punishment to the prince, for allegedly placing himself above the king.
But the Most Serene was no longer up to it. At that time, he was already the governor of St. Petersburg, and all his Moscow projects did not care much for him. G.Z., who lived in the neighborhood, undertook to restore the half-burnt church. Izmailov, a member of the Masonic lodge. For some time the church was used for meetings of Masons, even new bas-reliefs with Masonic symbols appeared on the facades (erased at the behest of Metropolitan Filaret in 1860).
Near the tower at the beginning of the XIX century was built. Such a close proximity of two independent churches was explained by the fact that in winter it was very difficult to heat the high Menshikov tower, and it was very difficult for both parishioners and clergymen to attend prayer services. And the Church of Theodore Stratilates was made very warm, so it began to play the role of a winter parish, and the Church of the Archangel Gabriel - a summer one.
I must say that from an architectural point of view, the combination of these two church buildings looks quite harmonious. Not every passer-by will guess that these are two different temples.
A noteworthy fact: in the architecture of Orthodox churches, as a rule, the bell tower is the tallest building. In this case, it turned out the other way around: the role of the belfry is played by the Church of Theodore Stratilat. There are no bells on the Menshikov Tower (they were there before the fire described above, but during the reconstruction it was decided not to restore the bell tower).
We return to the boulevard. The next noteworthy building, house number 10, is the Kashkin-Durasova Estate, an architectural monument of the 19th century.
On the pedestrian crossing we will cross to the other side in order to be on the pedestrian part of the boulevard. Passing through the tram tracks, it should be recalled that a rather remarkable tram runs in the Chistye Prudy area - the Annushka tavern on wheels. Having paid 100 rubles, you can make an original tram tour, and at the same time have a snack or a drink. And on Fridays and Saturdays, "Annushka" goes on a two-hour tour around Moscow. The beginning of the route is at the Chistye Prudy station.
The very name "Annushka" came from the fact that until quite recently in the speech of Muscovites one could often hear "Ring A" (Boulevard Ring) and "Ring B" (Garden Ring). To this day, a tram runs along the Boulevard Ring, designated not by a number, but by the letter "A". Hence the name of the tram-tavern "Annushka".
In the summer, various exhibitions of paintings and photographs are often held on the boulevard.
After walking a little more, we see the next monument. The venerable old man, sitting in the pose of a thinker, is Abai Kunanbayev, an outstanding Kazakh poet, the founder of Kazakh writing. The site around the monument is lined with white stone and surrounded by a granite semicircle, the inscription on which reads "The creator of the immortal word is eternal."
Here it is worth saying a few words about the origin of the pond and its name. Where Chistoprudny Boulevard now passes, for a long time there were various slaughterhouses and trading rows selling meat (it is no coincidence that the name of one of the streets adjacent to the boulevard is Myasnitskaya). And in the swamp, which was located on the site of the current pond, all waste from slaughterhouses and butcher shops was dumped. That is why the swamp was called the "Bad Pond".
At the beginning of the 18th century, a significant area in this area was bought by Prince Menshikov (that is why the Menshikov Tower was built here). He ordered the slaughterhouses to be moved to another place, and the pond to be cleaned and ennobled. In contrast to the old name, it received the name "Clean Pond". The name of the area "Chistye Prudy" was commonplace, since there was always only one pond here. But it took root so much that it has come down to our days in this form - in the plural.
Now the neighborhood of Chisty Pond is a favorite place for Muscovites to meet, date and walk. One of the few restaurants in the city on the water "Shater" is founded on the pond, catamaran rental is organized, and sometimes you can even ride a gondola.
Opposite the pond, on the odd side of the boulevard (house number 19), is the building of the theater "Sovremennik".
Now the Library named after F.M. Dostoevsky.
Having reached the end of the pond, we will pass to the even side of the boulevard. House No. 14, Profitable building of the Church of the Trinity on Gryazy, built in the early 20th century, a monument of the late, "national", modernist style. It is interesting not only from an architectural, but also from an artistic point of view. The facade of the first four floors (the top three floors were built on much later) is decorated with frescoes depicting fabulous animals by the artist S.I. Vashkov.
The building at the end of the boulevard is the former hotel "At the Pokrovsky Gates"
Today, the building, unfortunately, is in a very dilapidated state.
Having rounded the building of the former hotel, we find ourselves on Pokrovsky Gate Square. For many, this name is associated with the Soviet film of the same name. The house, in one of the communal apartments where the characters of the film live, was located somewhere here. According to the plot, at the end of the film, this house is being demolished, so it is not known which house director Mikhail Kozakov had in mind.
Before moving towards Pokrovsky Boulevard, turn left onto Pokrovka Street. House No. 22, a three-story turquoise building - the Apraksin-Trubetskoy Estate, an architectural monument of the 18th century.
A memorial plaque on the facade informs us that A.S. Pushkin.
Church domes rise above the roofs of Pokrovka houses, so we are heading there. In a small Barashevsky lane is the Church of the Entry into the Temple of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Barashy.
Nearby is a building that bears little resemblance to an Orthodox church.
Before the revolution, there was the Church of the Resurrection of Christ in Barashi. In the 1930s, the bell tower of the temple was destroyed, the domes were demolished, and the iconostasis was liquidated.
Now the building of the former church is occupied by one of the divisions of the Moscow police department. The Russian Orthodox Church has repeatedly tried to return the Temple to the parishioners, the police authorities also do not mind vacating the building, but for this it is necessary to find a suitable room for moving. Unfortunately, this has not yet been possible.
In a small square paved with stone slabs, a monument to N.G. Chernyshevsky, writer and revolutionary philosopher, author of the famous novel What Is to Be Done?
Passing the Pokrovsky Gates Square, turn left and turn into Khokhlovsky Lane. Here we will see the Church of the Life-Giving Trinity in Khokhly, an architectural monument of the 17th century.
We return to Pokrovsky Boulevard. On the odd side is the largest building of the boulevard (more than 100 meters long) - Pokrovsky barracks (house No. 3).
The barracks were built at the beginning of the 19th century by decree of Emperor Paul I. In front of the barracks, on the spot where the boulevard now runs, there was a parade ground. It is noteworthy that the building was used as barracks until 1960, after the revolution it was renamed Dzerzhinsky.
Let's go to the even side. Opposite the Pokrovsky barracks is house number 10 with the adjoining Milyutinsky garden. The building houses the Children's Center for Aesthetic Education, and the garden is a favorite resting place for residents of the surrounding area. The park is equipped with several playgrounds, a sports ground for playing basketball or football, along the paths of the garden there are benches for relaxing and unhurried conversations.
The garden is very well maintained and cozy. For example, you rarely see a fruit-bearing apple tree in the center of Moscow.
After walking around the garden, we return to the boulevard and go to the odd side.
The building next to the Milyutinsky Garden (house No. 12C1), the House of Krestnikova built in the 19th century (rebuilt at the beginning of the 20th century), is now occupied by the Prosecutor's Office of the Central Administrative District.
these are the buildings of the former estate of the Krestovnikovs built in the 19th century.
Let's go to the other side of the boulevard and turn into Maly Trekhsvyatitelsky Lane. Here is the Church of the Three Hierarchs in Kulish (the lane got its name from it).
Here it is worth saying a few words about the area of Bolshoi and Maly Trekhsvyatitelsky lanes, Khitrovsky lane and other surrounding areas. At the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century, "Khitrovka" (as this area was then called) was far from being the most friendly corner of Moscow. "Khitrovka" was the center of the criminal world of the capital. Criminals of all stripes lived here, from the so-called "businessmen" to petty crooks, runaway convicts hid from the police, and ordinary beggars and the homeless were enough at Khitrovka.
Respectable citizens tried to bypass Khitrovka even during the day, and even being here at night meant being guaranteed to be left without a wallet, or even completely lose their lives. According to the descriptions of contemporaries, even the police tried to appear on Khitrovka as rarely as possible, raids in this area were very risky.
The most complete description of the life of "Khitrovka" can be found in the book by V.A. Gilyarovsky "Moscow and Muscovites". Unlike most residents of the city, Gilyarovsky was not afraid to visit Khitrovka, he was known here and accepted as "one of his own".
Later, playwrights K.K. Stanislavsky and V.I. Nemirovich-Danchenko with artist V.A. Simov, when they were preparing to stage a play based on Maxim Gorky's play "At the Bottom" (Gorky himself scooped "nature" in the slums of Nizhny Novgorod). The production was a great success, largely due to the fact that its authors saw the "bottom" with their own eyes.
"Khitrovka" is often mentioned in Boris Akunin's detective stories.
Now only the name of Khitrovsky Lane reminds of that dangerous and unpleasant "Khitrovka".
Let's go back to the boulevard. House No. 11 - The Durasov House, an architectural monument of the 18th century, is considered one of the best works of mature classicism in Moscow at the end of the 18th century. Now it is shrouded in a construction grid, a major reconstruction is underway.
Let's go to the even side. House number 16, another architectural monument of the XIX century.
The building that ends the boulevard (house No. 18/15) - the Teleshev House (or the Karzinkin House) is known not only as an architectural monument of the 18th century, but also as a historical monument.
Initially, the house belonged to one of the branches of the Tolstoy Counts, then it was bought by the merchant Andrey Karzinkin. At the end of the 19th century, the artist Elena Karzinkina lived here with her husband, writer Nikolai Teleshev. In 1899-1916. the creative Moscow intelligentsia gathered here, as a result of which a literary association arose, called Teleshov's Wednesdays. Maxim Gorky, Ivan Bunin, Fyodor Chaliapin, Sergei Rachmaninov and many other famous artists repeatedly took part in Wednesdays.
Pokrovsky Boulevard ends, turning into Yauzsky.
The even side of Yauzsky Boulevard begins with a monumental post-constructivist building, typical of the 1930s.
The entrance to the building is decorated with two plaster figures - a miner and a collective farmer.
A man holds a jackhammer in one hand and a book in the other
and the woman is depicted with a rifle and a sheaf of wheat.
Apparently, this should symbolize the all-roundness of the Soviet people, who can do everything: work, get an education, and, if necessary, defend their country with weapons in their hands.
Note that a rather picturesque view opens up from the intersection at which Yauzsky Boulevard begins: in the distance we see the domes of the Moscow Kremlin, and behind them skyscrapers.
We are moving along the boulevard.
Its main attraction has recently been the monument to Rasul Gamzatov, an outstanding Soviet poet. The monument was erected quite recently, in the summer of 2013.
The monument is a full-length figure of the poet sitting on a chair, and the composition is completed by a granite stele, which depicts a flock of cranes and immortal lines written by Gamzatov:
"It seems to me sometimes that the soldiers,
From the bloody fields that did not come,
They didn’t fall into this land once,
And they turned into white cranes.
are architectural monuments of the XIX century.
House No. 13 - The Boldyrevs' Profitable House, an architectural monument in the Art Nouveau style of the early 20th century.
Part of the premises of this building is occupied by the Central Border Museum.
Having crossed to the other side of the boulevard, we turn into Petropavlovsky lane. At its beginning rises the Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul at the Yauza Gates, an architectural monument of the early 18th century (1700-1702).
This church is worth not only seeing from the outside, but also visiting its courtyard. Such a cozy arrangement of the church yard is rarely seen in Moscow. On the platform, paved with granite tiles, there is a rotunda with a small fountain in the form of an Orthodox cross, on both sides of it are plaster figures of praying women.
To the left of the rotunda, we see a wooden cross in memory of all those buried in the churchyard of the Peter and Paul Church.
Solyanka street.
After leaving the square and crossing the road, turn left. The seemingly inconspicuous building of house No. 14, however, is an architectural monument of the 18th century; the Institute of Obstetrics was located here, as a memorial plaque on the facade of the building says.
The next building is much more monumental. This is a classic example of the 19th century Russian Empire style.
Until 1917, the Moscow Board of Trustees was located here. Now it is occupied by the Academy of Medical Sciences.
A memorial plaque on the facade tells us that the outstanding scientist surgeon N.N. Burdenko.
After walking a little more, we will see two granite pylons with sculptural compositions crowning them. This is the Orphanage Gate. The sculptures on the pylons are called "Education" and "Mercy".
The Imperial Orphanage occupied a whole block between Solyanka and Moskvoretskaya embankment. The building itself is clearly visible from the embankment or from the Bolshoi Ustyinsky Bridge, but the gate, which in itself is an architectural monument, overlooks Solyanka.
On the opposite side of the street we see the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary on Kulishki. Now it is "chained" in scaffolding, but by the elements that have already been restored, it is obvious that when the work is completed, it will look very beautiful.
At the entrance to the church there is a monument that reminds us of one of the tragic pages of our recent history. This is the Monument in memory of the victims of the tragedy in Beslan. Figures of defenseless children, scattered children's toys... everyone passing by must understand that this should never happen again.
It is also worth paying attention to the complex of houses (No. 1 p. 1 and No. 1 p. 2). Monumental gray buildings at the end of Solyanka occupy a whole block. At the beginning of the 20th century, they belonged to the Moscow Merchant Society and were used as tenement houses (that is, apartments in them were rented out). After the revolution, they were nationalized and since then they have been residential buildings.
Located right in front of us, next to the Church on Kulishki.
This completes our walk.
Boulevard in the Basmanny district of the Central Administrative District of Moscow. Passes from the Butcher's Gate Square to the Pokrovsky Gate Square, the numbering is from the Butcher's Gate. There are Chistye Prudy on the boulevard (in fact, there is only one pond). Out on the boulevard: Arkhangelsky Lane from the inside, Bolshoi Kharitonievsky Lane and Makarenko Street from the outside.
A granite barrier with lamps and stone benches forms the entrance to the green strip of the boulevard. Behind him is a monument to A. S. Griboyedov, erected in 1959 (sculptor A. A. Manuilov, architect A. A. Zavarzin).
Chistoprudny Boulevard was built in the 1820s, when considerable funds were allocated for the restoration of Moscow after the great fire of 1812.
This is the largest boulevard in the ring and the second after Tverskoy in length (822 meters). In addition to the wide main alley, there is also a quiet side alley, separated by a lawn, which is planted with groups of trees and bushes. Both alleys lead to a large area near the pond. In January 1966, a two-story glass cafe opened here. In 1982 it was rebuilt for the first time. The modern White Swan complex was built in the 2000s. In 2006, a monument to Abai Kunanbaev was erected nearby and a fountain was built.
Chisty Ponds were formed thanks to the dam of the Rachka River flowing along the wall of the White City. Until the end of the 17th century, local butchers dumped garbage from slaughtered cattle into Rachka and the pond, the water spread a stench, which is why the ponds were originally called Pogany (there are other versions of the origin of this name, but the one mentioned above is considered the most common).
The favorite of Peter I, Menshikov, who bought the land now occupied by the post office, cleaned the ponds and strictly forbade polluting them; since then they are called Pure.
From time immemorial, the ponds have been a favorite place for boating, and in winter for ice skating. The author of a guide to Moscow in 1831 invites the reader to visit the boulevard in order to "admire here skating in the manner of English or St. Petersburg."
In 1960, the banks of the pond were reinforced with stone, and in 1966 with concrete.
The pond lined with lindens is surrounded by two narrow alleys converging at the end of the boulevard.
Chistoprudny Boulevard is repeatedly mentioned in Russian literature, both pre-revolutionary - by Pisemsky, Leskov, Boborykin - and Soviet. You can read about the boulevard of the NEP period in the story “Knives” by V. Kataev, according to which an operetta was written at one time. The boulevard of the 1920-1930s is dedicated to the book of Yu. Nagibin, who lived in this area - "Clean Ponds", based on which a movie was made. Many poems by contemporary poets have been written about the boulevard.
At the Pokrovsky Gates, the boulevard closes with a well-preserved building of the former hotel, built at the beginning of the 19th century according to the project, presumably, by V.P. Stasov, although his authorship has not been documented.
The buildings on both sides of the boulevard at the beginning of its existence were predominantly noble. The author of the guidebook of 1831 exudes enthusiasm: “On both sides rise such houses that would seem to our ancestors for something extraordinary: their uneducated mind could never imagine such proportionate stone chambers.” Archival data, however, do not confirm the presence here of either particularly large, even for that time, or architecturally valuable buildings; The "proportionality" of the same buildings for the architecture of the era of classicism was a prerequisite. In any case, in terms of its development, Chistoprudny Boulevard could not be compared with either Tverskoy or Nikitsky Boulevard.
In the second half of the 19th century, the lord's mansions passed into the hands of the middle merchant class, bureaucracy and bourgeoisie. At the same time, several multi-storey apartment buildings appeared here. The Soviet period also made its own adjustments to the architectural appearance of the boulevard: here you can see the buildings of the period of the Soviet avant-garde and the emerging "great Stalinist style".
The monument to Griboyedov appeared in Moscow in the year of the 130th anniversary of his death in Persia. On January 30, 1829, the rioters killed everyone who was in the embassy. Griboedov's body was identified only by a duel mark on the left hand. A monument to the poet was erected on Chistoprudny Boulevard, although he was born in a house on Novinsky.
And 100 years ago, a monument was erected on this site according to the project of the sculptor M. Kovalev. An 8-meter figure made of reinforced concrete, holding his head in his hands, was dedicated to the founder of anarchism, Mikhail Bakunin.
The futuristic sculpture was not understood: horses shied away from it like fire, anarchists staged a protest demanding that the monument be removed, and workers wrote an article in the newspaper with the headline “Remove the scarecrow!”. As a result, the monument to Bakunin did not stand even a month.
For a long time, people and horses, walking and riding along, shyly looked sideways at some enraged figure, covered with boards as a precaution. It was Bakunin in the interpretation of a respected artist. If I'm not mistaken, the monument was immediately destroyed by the anarchists after its opening, because for all their superiority, the anarchists did not want to suffer such a sculptural "mockery" of the memory of their leader.
31.12.2019
So the year of the well-fed yellow pig ends and the New Year 2020 of the little white metal mouse begins.
18.08.2019
While the Moscow Metro Museum is under reconstruction, its exposition has been moved...
31.12.2018
2018 is the year of the yellow dog and 2019 is the year of the yellow pig. A frisky and cheerful dog passes the reins of power to a well-fed and calm pig.
31.12.2017
Dear friends, on the last day of 2017, the fiery rooster, we want to congratulate you on the New Year 2018, the year of the yellow dog.
31.12.2016
In the coming new year 2017, we wish the fiery rooster to bring you good luck, happiness and bright and positive impressions while traveling.
A country: Russia
City: Moscow
Nearest metro: Chistye Prudy
Was passed: 1959
Sculptor: A.A. Manuilov
Architect: A.A. Zavardin
Description
The bronze figure of the famous poet, diplomat, author of the comedy in verse "Woe from Wit", Alexander Sergeevich Griboedov, is installed on a high cylindrical pedestal. The pedestal is decorated like a theater stage. The curtain is drawn aside and reveals a commemorative inscription: "Alexander Sergeevich Griboyedov 1795-1829". The heroes of “Woe from Wit” are depicted at the bottom of the pedestal. The very same figure of the poet is made in full growth. Alexander Sergeevich is dressed in a classic costume from the early 19th century. A cloak is thrown over the shoulders.
History of creation
The monument was erected in 1959 at the beginning of Chistoprudny Boulevard on the day of the 130th anniversary of the tragic death of Alexander Sergeevich as a result of the massacre at the Russian embassy in Tehran.
How to get there
Arrive at the Chistye Prudy metro station, take the head car to the center. Get out on Chistoprudny Boulevard, and you are at the place at the monument to Alexander Sergeevich Griboyedov.
