How to assemble a professional soft box. Softbox or umbrella? Which light modifier and in what cases should the photographer use
An under-review, because I don't know how to show the softbox in a way that was clear to those who are far from amateur photography. But with examples...
In general, this is my second softbox, the first, the same, was bought there last year, but one is not enough for me for my tasks.
In general, an under-review, the pictures are partly from the store, partly from the Internet, partly mine. And the examples are mine. The thing is that initially I didn’t plan to write this review, so “how it happened” :)
The softbox was purchased from dealextreme on May 15th, and since the goods, it was also sent on May 15, first by chinapost, then on the 15th at lunchtime a letter was received about changing the track to Honk Kong post, the parcel arrived in Ukraine on May 20, and on May 30 it was checked by customs. I don’t know what made the customs service so interested in the softbox. And I received the parcel on the second of June.
Video with unpacking the parcel.
You know the old joke about slides?
In the mid-1970s, an announcement appeared on the country club:
"Lecture "Types of love". Slide show."
The whole village comes to the lecture.
The lecturer enters the podium and begins:
The first kind of love is the love of a man and a woman.
People: Slides! Slides!
Lecturer: Slides will come later. The second kind of love is the love of a man and a man.
People: Slides! Slides!
Lecturer: Slides will come later. The third kind of love is the love of a woman and a woman.
People: Slides! Slides!
Lecturer: The fourth kind of love is love for the motherland. AND NOW THERE WILL BE SLIDES!
What is a softbox?
Softbox is a light modifier designed to soften the light, get diffused lighting without harsh shadows. There are different varieties:
- - most often rectangular in shape, with an aspect ratio of 1:1 to 3:1, gives light similar to diffused light from a window
- - a narrow rectangular softbox, with an aspect ratio of 4:1 and narrower, is called a stripbox, they are usually given a highlight that emphasizes the shape of the subject
- - an octagonal softbox is called an octabox
In general, on the left is a softbox, on the right is an octabox
All easyboxes have the same device: in fact, this is an umbrella, which has a silver inner side ( less often golden), the outer one is black to eliminate unnecessary reflections, and there is a diffuser diffuser ( without it, it's just a reflection umbrella).
some photos from the shop page:
This is what it looks like on the photo booth This is a crop of a backstage photo.)
And this is how the softbox shines
What is a softbox for?
From Wikipedia:
A softbox is a light source attachment designed to create soft, diffused lighting without harsh glare. Used in studio photography.
And now in your own words:
In general, a softbox is a light source modifier, its essence is that the light source becomes much larger, in this case 90*60cm vs 4*6 flash window, and how to use it depends on your skills and creative goals. If necessary, even from a softbox you can get not only “soft” light, but also quite hard.
And now there will be slides, 18+ :)
Filmed using this or a similar softbox previously purchased from the same store
Nowadays, a softbox is not so expensive, for 3000 rubles. or even less you can buy a good softbox. But what if there is a way to do it much cheaper, with the same result? This is exactly what we will cover in the tutorial "Do it yourself: how to make a professional softbox for less than 600 rubles."
Here's what we should get
Step one. What is a softbox?
A softbox is one type of light modifier used specifically in the studio or for amateur portraits. It creates soft diffused light by directing it through a diffusing element. Light is reflected from internal walls covered with a shiny material, usually aluminum foil, onto a white diffusion sheet.
It can be used with any strobe or continuous light source. The main purpose of a softbox is to create soft and even light, and is often used as the main light source. In addition, it is ideal for studio lighting where every centimeter of an area counts.
Step two. Necessary materials.
In order to build a softbox, we need:
- Cardboard (you can cut the boxes)
- Ribbon
- Aluminium foil
- Duct tape
- Screws and nuts
- Roll of paper (at least 40 inches wide x 50 long. Available in 101, 6 and 127 centimeters)
- black spray
Step three. We draw and measure.
In this tutorial, we'll show you how to create a 30x25 inch (76.2x63.5) softbox, but this method will work for any size. Just do not forget about the proportions, otherwise it will come out incorrectly geometrically.
First of all, you need to draw the four sides of the softbox in the shape of a trapezoid. The first two sides will be large, and then the other two will be shorter. The bottom of the large trapezoid will be 30 inches long (76.2 cm). The angle of the side walls is 45 degrees. The top of the mold should be as long as your flash, in my case it was 3 inches (7.62 cm). Then we repeat everything again, and as a result we get two large sides of the softbox.
It's time for the short sides. The bottom is 25 inches long (63.5cm) and the top is the height of your flash head. The angle of inclination here is not so important, but it comes out a little more than 60 degrees, however, it is much easier to just use the length of the wall, like last time.
Step four. We cut the walls.
Now that you have all four sides of the softbox - two large and two small, it's time to work hard with the cardboard. Remember to leave a small amount of cardboard at the top, about 2-3 inches long, as this is where our flash will go. Cut each piece with a cutter, and set the finished pieces aside.
Step five. Let's create the interior.
Once you've cut out everything you need, use some glue to stick aluminum foil on each piece of cardboard (but only on one side). You can use aluminum tape around the edges to make the construction more secure. This part will reflect the flash light, making it stronger and more powerful. Only by using two layers of aluminum foil can it be guaranteed that the surface will remain reflective for a long time.
Step six. Add Velcro tape.
Now let's take two short walls - those with a short part at the top - and two sticky tapes. Large, about 6 inches (15.24 cm) and small 2 inches (5.08 cm). In addition, a little secret - two layers of tape will make our construction more stable. It is these two straps that will hold the flash in place and keep it from falling.
Step seven. Bonding and assembly.
If you have everything we talked about before, it's time to put together our softbox. It's very simple. First, you need to take the large side, short, the other large and the remaining. With the help of tape and glue, with which we will prevent possible tears, we connect the parts.
Be aware of the tape on the top where the flash goes. To check if it is properly assembled, lift the softbox by holding it by the top. If he is still, then everything is in order. If it moves and is unstable, add more tape until it is more secure.
Step eight. We paint.
After waiting a few minutes, you can start painting the softbox to make it look better and more professional. Use old newspaper or tape to protect parts you don't want to paint, such as the top opening. I used black spray to make this process easier. When the paint dries, add another coat of color and then leave to dry overnight.
Step nine. We make and install a tripod mount.
If your softbox is almost finished, then it's time to make a tripod adapter. Use an aluminum L-bracket, place it on the larger side of the softbox. Make a few holes in the softbox, only in the middle of the small side. Then, using screws and nuts, fix the bracket in place, make sure it is stable and not moving.
To use this bracket, you may need a swivel paper stand, which is easy to find, for example, on eBay, for only 300 rubles. To install it, simply insert the L-bracket into the hole more gently.
Step ten. We make a diffuser panel.
Now it's time to install the diffuser panel made of paper. Unroll the roll of paper on the floor, place the softbox face down on top of it, and carefully glue the paper on each side. You can add multiple layers if you want to make the light softer and more even. Remember that the more layers you add, the lower the power of transmitted light. Of course, if the paper breaks, you can always stick a new one on at any time.
Step eleven. Installing the flash.
To set up the flash, hold the softbox up to a light and then place the flash into the hole. To do this, while holding the flash gently, insert it into the hole, pressing until it is snug. Secure it with sticky tape.
It's better to use the flash horizontally, so you get more freedom of movement for the softbox. For example, you can point it down, up, or at an angle of 45 degrees.
Step twelve. Final result.
All you have to do now is just experiment with shooting with your new softbox! It produces wonderful, soft light, illuminating the whole person, for example. I always use the softbox in the studio as my main light source, without the need for anything else.
This is great for creating dramatic portraits, highlighting a model's appearance, or creating a fashion photo. Here are some examples. The first of them - only the softbox is used here, the camera is on the right. We see very high contrast. The other two were made using a softbox as the main source and two lamps. on both sides, as additional light.
Try!
A softbox doesn't have to be expensive these days - you can get good results for $100 or less. But what if there is a way to make it much cheaper, with the same effect?
Lesson details
- Difficulty: medium
- Completion time: 24 hours
- Requirements: see equipment list below
Final result
A softbox doesn't have to be expensive these days - you can get good results for $100 or less. But what if there is a way to make it much cheaper, with the same effect? That's what I'll explain in this tutorial: how to create a softbox that produces professional results for less than $20.
Step 1: What is a softbox?
A softbox is a variant of a light modifier used specifically for studio or outdoor portraits. It creates soft diffused lighting by directing the light through some kind of diffuse material. The light is reflected from the inner walls, which are covered with a shiny surface, usually aluminum foil, and from a white diffusing sheet.
It can be used with pulsed and constant light sources. The main purpose of a softbox is to create soft and even lighting, often used as the main lighting. It is also important for lighting in the studio, where every millimeter of light space matters.
Step 2: Required Materials
To assemble a softbox, you will need:
- Large piece of cardboard
- adhesive tape
- Aluminium foil
- Velcro
- Bolts and nuts
- Roll of paper (at least 40 inches wide x 50 inches long) (approx. 100 cm x 130 cm - approx. per.)
- black spray
Step 3: Drawing and measuring
This tutorial explains how to make a 30x25 inch softbox. (≈ 76x64 cm - approx. per.), but this method is also suitable for creating a softbox of any other size. Just keep proportions in mind to get it right.
First of all, you need to draw 4 sides of the trapezoid softbox. The first two sides will be large, and the other two will be short.
The bottom of the trapezoid should be 30 inches (76 cm) long. Side walls located at an angle of 45º. The top of the trapezoid should match the long side of your flash head, which in my case is 3 inches (7.62 cm). Then repeat the process from the beginning to make the second large side part of the softbox.
Now it's time to make the short sides. The bottom is 25 inches (63.5 cm) long and the top matches the short side of your flash head. In this case, the angle is not that important, it's a little over 60º, but to make things easier, just use the length of the sides of the large side pieces made earlier.
Step 4: Cut out the four walls
Now that you have the four sides of the softbox - two large and two small - it's time to carefully cut them out. Be sure to leave a small amount of cardboard at the top, about 2-3 inches (5-7 cm) long, to secure the flash. Cut out each piece, and set the finished pieces aside.
Step 5: Making the inside
When you've cut everything, use glue and cover each piece of cardboard with aluminum foil (but only on one side). You can use aluminum tape around the edges to make it more secure. This part will reflect the flash light, making it more powerful. Just in case, use two layers of aluminum foil, just to make sure the whole thing lasts longer.
Step 6: Add Velcro
Now take two short walls - the ones with a short part on top - and tape two strips of Velcro on them with tape. One large, about 6 inches (15 cm) and one short, about 2 inches (5 cm). Also attach them with a stapler and a double layer of adhesive tape for greater security. These two Velcro will keep the flash from falling and keep it still.
Step 7: Gluing and Mounting
If everything is in order, it's time to assemble the softbox. It's very simple. First take the large side, then the small one, then the second large one, and finally the last remaining one. Glue them together with glue and tape, a lot of glue and tape, secure each part so that it does not fall off.
Don't forget to tape the top part where the flash is inserted as well. Good way to check that everything is properly assembled is to lift the softbox by holding on to the top. If he doesn't move, everything is fine. If it's movable and unstable, add more duct tape until everything is in place.
Step 8: Painting
After waiting a few minutes, you can paint your softbox to make it look a lot more professional. Use old newspaper and duct tape to protect the parts you don't want to paint, like the top opening. I used black spray paint to make the process a bit easier. After it dries, add another coat of paint and then leave it to dry overnight.
Step 9: Create and set up a tripod adapter
When your softbox is almost ready, it's time to make a tripod adapter. Take the L-shaped aluminum bracket, and place it with the long side on top of the softbox. Make a few holes in the softbox, right down the center of the short side. Then, using bolts and nuts, install the bracket and screw it on, making sure it is secure and does not move.
To use this bracket, you also need a light stand and a swivel head mount for this stand, both of which are easy to find on eBay for only $10, for example. The easiest way to mount a softbox on it is to carefully insert the short part of the L-bracket into the flash mount.
Step 10: Create the Diffusion Panel
Now it's time to install the diffuser panel made of paper. Unroll the roll of paper on the floor, place the softbox on top of it, and carefully glue the paper to each side. You can also add multiple layers if you want to make the light much softer and more even. Remember that the more layers you add, the less light output will be.
Of course, if the paper peels off, you can always repeat this process later.
Step 11: Installing the Flash
Finally it's time to mount the softbox on the stand and then insert the flash into the hole. To do this, gently hold the flash and insert it into the hole, pressing gently until it is firmly seated in the hole. Secure it with Velcro.
The reason we use the flash horizontally is to allow more flexibility in moving the softbox. You can point it down, up, or at a 45º angle, for example.
Step 12: Final Result
All you need now is to take some test shots with your new softbox! It creates a wonderful soft light and allows you to illuminate the whole person. I always use it in the studio as my main light without needing anything else.
It is great for creating dramatic portraits when placed to the side of the subject, or for portraits with soft diffused light. Below are some examples. On the first one, only a softbox is used, to the right of the camera, on full power. Thus, a frame with high contrast is obtained. The other two are made using a softbox as the main source, along with two uncoated strobes, one on each side, as edge lighting.
Try it!
Beauty dishes, softboxes, stripboxes, reflectors, umbrellas of all kinds and sizes, ring flashes, etc... It's a bit like choosing a new car - there are many options, but which one will suit your needs?
beauty dish
A beauty dish helps to bring out the details of the face and the texture of the skin. It is often used for fashion and makeup photography.
There are two types of beauty dish: with a silver surface and with a white one. Silver gives a slightly harder and more contrasting light, while white gives a softer one. They also differ in size; 40 cm, 56 cm and 70 cm are considered classic.
A small disc inside the dish reflects light back to the surface of the dish, which means that no direct light falls on the subject. Also, when using this modifier, a beautiful reflection in the eyes of the model is obtained.
Cup reflector
The basic option is the standard cup-shaped reflector that comes with the studio flash. There are reflectors different sizes and depth for different lighting quality. As a rule, they are suitable for hard, direct light.
A high-contrast light with sharp shadows will appear on the face of the model. If you want to make a soft portrait, then this reflector will not work for you.
This is a small modifier that you can use to play with shadows. By pointing it at a white wall, you will get diffused lighting, and the wall will act as a large reflector.
photo umbrella
Umbrellas are available on the market in a variety of shapes and sizes. The great advantage of a photo umbrella is that it can be quickly set up and does not take up much space when folded.
A silver umbrella is useful for hard and contrasting lighting. A white umbrella placed between the model and the flash softens and diffuses the light, filling the studio with soft, natural light.
The silver umbrella with diffusing fabric is a mixture of both options. The silver side creates a contrasting light, while the diffusing fabric softens.
ring flash
The ring flash creates even lighting without visible shadows, a beautiful reflection in the eyes of the subject, and a subtle halo in the portrait. It can be used in combination with other light sources.
softbox
The softbox is a classic light modifier that also comes in a variety of configurations and sizes: square, rectangular, octagonal, etc... Softboxes also come in silver and white. The larger the softbox, the more diffused light you will get.
stripbox
A stripbox is a long and rectangular softbox that can be used to get less shadow than with a square softbox.
A very long strip box casts light on a narrow and long area, such as a full-length portrait, creating less shadow than a square soft box.
In conclusion, there is no right or wrong choice when it comes to light modifier. They're just all different. The best for you will be the one that is consistent with the intended effect in the portrait.
Usually I prefer to take with me the minimum set of equipment for shooting portraits. If I'm working for a client or doing stock photography, I bring more equipment with me to handle any challenge that may arise. One of my favorite accessories that I rely on is a small, portable flash softbox.
Using a small softbox during the day can even out the shadows on the model's face.
Unmodified flash light may be too harsh. A powerful flash from a small light source leads to ugly shadows and strong overexposures. It doesn't matter if the flash is on the camera or not, as long as the light is direct and not diffused, the result will look unnatural. I've been experimenting with different small light modifiers for flashes and haven't found one that produces nice light, mainly due to their size. They are too small to make the light even and soft.
Folding softbox
My folding softbox is only 60 cm (about 2 feet) in size and is square in shape, lightweight and portable. It's great to have someone assist you and hold it where you need it, but I often just mount it on a stand. Placing the flash inside the softbox effectively increases the amount of light emitted, softened by two nylon diffusers. The light from your flash will be well diffused, resulting in softer shadows and reduced blowouts.
Night portraits
The presence of soft light in night portraits creates evenly lit photographs.
Shooting portraits at night can be challenging, especially if you have to rely on available light. By applying the light source you have, you make the night portrait more enjoyable. Often at night, available light sources do not provide a uniform and soft light to illuminate your subject, and direct flash will produce poor results. Using a softbox to soften the light will avoid harsh shadows and highlights.
Indoor portraits
Adding soft light to one side of my model helped brighten up the scene.
Likewise, when photographing indoors and using available light, it can be difficult to achieve good results. By applying an ambient light source to your subject, you can create images that look natural.
The slightly larger surface of the softbox spreads the light over a wider area, so more of your subject is affected, as well as a bit of the surrounding area.
With the right flash output and exposure setting, I was able to capture this traditional Thai New Year's blessing well.
Outdoor portraits during the daytime
My favorite thing about using a softbox is when shooting outdoors during the daytime. Having an additional light source that is strong enough but not too harsh can help you capture portraits that look natural. Being able to reduce shadows by adding soft fill light will give a much more pleasing result than when you use unmodified flash or rely on available light only.
The key is balance
I have found that setting my flash settings manually produces better results than setting it to TTL or other automatic settings. Power control will allow you to balance the pleasant soft light of the softbox with the available light. This is important if you want to create natural photos. If your flash produces too much or too little light, it will overwhelm ambient light or be ineffective.
I'm used to using an external light meter to measure ambient light and then adjust my flash to get the right amount of power. For now, it's easy enough to use the information your camera provides on the screen, the histogram, and the highlight alert. With a little practice, it won't take long to find the right settings for a good exposure.
Using a flash and softbox to balance the subject's backlight with the right amount of ambient light.
Light source location and background
Sometimes you may need to balance the flash so that the background is very bright and your subject well lit. You will get this result by setting the flash output so that it produces slightly less light than the backlight and exposing to the skin of the model (which your flash is illuminating).
Consider diffused flash light as a second light source. Position your model so that the strong ambient light is behind and the softbox is on the side. You will get a result close to studio shooting. Again, in this situation, balance is key. Too much or too little flash output will create unbalanced light and an unnatural looking photo.
Filling in with intense, soft light when a strong light source is placed behind your subject can provide very natural looking portraits.
In this shot, the softbox has been placed to the left of the camera.
Modify!
A lot of my students avoid using flash mainly because they didn't get good results. A small, directional light source is unlikely to provide pleasant illumination. Using a small softbox to modify your flash light and balancing the available light will change your portraits.
Like always when you try new technology with unfamiliar equipment, allow yourself to make mistakes. Mistakes are a great way to learn, but not when someone else is relying on you. Practice when the only consequence of mistakes is your experience and not the disappointment of others.
How to learn to use such softboxes at 100%
If you want to learn how to get professional portrait photos like in glossy magazines with an inexpensive flash and softbox, then you definitely need to take the course "Home mobile photo studio for beginners" to read its description and get the course, click on the picture below.
