Strong vibration of the car at speed. An overheated disk often acquires a bluish tint. Beats the steering wheel only at high speeds due to imbalance

Unfortunately, most car owners find that car vibration and steering wheel wobble mean they need to balance their car's wheels. But this is far from always the case, although the imbalance of the wheels is one of the most common causes of such vibration on the steering wheel or the entire car.

The problem is also that the vibration of the steering wheel (as well as the whole car) is not only one of the most common, but also one of the most annoying problems. Moreover, it often creeps up on us gradually and imperceptibly - until one fine day we begin to realize that the steering wheel is already hitting hard enough, and this beating is given throughout the car, but we understand that we are already used to it and therefore we are not in a hurry to specialized service or tire fitting to fix the problem.

But, most likely, at that time you asked yourself the question, what does it mean if your car vibrates, what are the reasons for the steering wheel beating? And even though there is whole line reasons for the appearance of vibration of the car or only the steering wheel, it will most likely be possible to sort out the problem without resorting to large expenditures of money. However, having established the cause of the beating, you may have to spend money on repairs and eliminating the causes of such vibration. However, we must understand that in the long run this will give us significant savings due to the failure of certain elements of the steering or suspension.

To determine the cause of vibration on the steering wheel or the entire car, we first need to determine the specific vibration conditions - drive along the track (the more deserted it is, the better) on different speeds and feel the beat and measure at what speeds it starts and disappears (most often you will notice that there are two ranges of the appearance of the beat: first at low or medium speed, then the vibration disappears at a higher speed, and then it reappears at an even higher speed; however, if the vibration is very weak, then it can only be felt in one range - at high speeds). In addition, determine how the car behaves during acceleration and braking - does the vibration disappear or increase depending on acceleration at different speeds?

So, let's look at all the reasons why vibration appears throughout the car and beats the steering wheel?

Out of balance due to mud or snow

One of the most likely causes of the steering wheel beating or even the vibration of the entire car is that dirt or snow is simply clogged into the disc - in this case, the beating appears temporarily, it can stop literally immediately after picking up speed and not reappear or after a few minutes of driving. Determining the presence of dirt is easy in the case of alloy wheels and quite difficult in the case of steel wheels (which, as a rule, have rather small ventilation holes, and even decorative caps can interfere with visibility) - dirt is usually concentrated on the inside of the wheel.

Beats the steering wheel only at high speeds due to imbalance

As a rule, neither tires nor wheel rims are perfect and ideal either in terms of evenness or in terms of their composition. And since their mass is different in different parts, then when the wheel rotates, the place where its weight is greater will pull the center of the wheel towards itself - this is the centrifugal force, and therefore, during rapid rotation, this force will be transmitted through a chain of rods in the final account on the steering wheel in the form of vibration.

Therefore, the wheels need to be balanced from time to time, as well as after changing tires or wheels on the car. The essence of balancing is to equalize the mass of the wheel at all its points due to special weights that are attached or glued to the wheel disk.

Driving with unbalanced wheels for quite some time can cause excessive wear in certain areas of the tire, which then adds more vibration. In addition, it wears the suspension components and most of all the wheel bearing.

The main symptoms of imbalanced wheels are, first of all, not too strong vibration at sufficiently high speeds - as a rule, in passenger cars, these speeds are not lower than 60 km / h. Inspect the wheels of the car: if the wheel rims are even and not wrinkled, you do not remember when last time pits were caught while driving, the rubber of the wheels is not very worn out, and the beating is felt only on the steering wheel, or as you pick up speed, first on the steering wheel, and then the whole car may vibrate slightly, then the problem most likely lies in the unbalanced wheels.

Just don’t think that if only the steering wheel hits, then only the front wheels need to be balanced - you always need to balance all 4 wheels. It will cost an average of about 600 - 1,200 rubles if you have a car, and 1,000 - 2,000 rubles in the case of crossovers and SUVs - as a rule, the cost of balancing strongly depends on the radius of the wheels, on whether you have “stamped” (steel) wheels or alloy wheels.

Deformed (bent or defective) discs or tires as the cause of the vibration of the entire car

Sometimes the cause of vibration can be the curvature of the wheels - this, in general, is easy to determine by any tire worker when the wheel is rotated on the balancing stand. He must definitely tell you about this, but it is highly desirable that you yourself be present when balancing the wheels and make sure with your own eyes that this is not so. But if, when the wheel rotates on the stand, looking at one point on the edge of its surface, you see that it is jumping, then this is a cause for concern. In this case, it is necessary to determine whether its disk jumps to the beat of the entire wheel or not - if so, then the disk itself is the reason for this, if not, then the tire.

Most often, the wheel becomes uneven due to a disc bent as a result of falling into a pit or pothole - this problem is especially common in the spring, when the pits become much larger, and more often they are hidden under puddles. You can determine the curvature of the disk yourself without removing the wheel - just inspect its rim for dents - however, it is the inner part of the disk that wrinkles more often and more, so you may still have to call in a tire shop. Steel wheels are more susceptible to such damage than cast wheels.

But in addition to dents, the disk can be crooked by itself - moreover, on a balancing stand it can spin smoothly, but not on a car. This is possible because on the balancing stand the wheel is attached through the central (hub) hole to it, and to the car, as we know, into the holes for mounting bolts or nuts. And sometimes it happens that these holes do not ensure the fastening of the wheel strictly evenly. In addition, the disk itself can be deformed - more often this happens in the case of inexpensive steel (and sometimes even cast) disks.

In general, the well-known term "eight" refers only to disks - it is either a heavily deformed disk or a defective one - and it is this type of deformation that often gives a strong beating of the steering wheel and even the entire car.

A heavily worn, defective or deformed tire can also cause a strong beating of the steering wheel and the entire car. The most common tire deformations usually include:

• Damage to the cord (metal braid inside the tire to stiffen it) and, as a result, the bulge of a part of the tire.
• Bumps on the side walls due to falling into pits, potholes, potholes, hitting the rails.
• Factory marriage, which can manifest itself in completely different visual manifestations.

In both cases: damage to the disc or rubber, the symptoms will be more or less the same: the beating should be given not only to the steering wheel, but to the entire car - moreover, as the car accelerates, only the steering wheel can start to beat at first, but then the whole car starts to vibrate, but it depends on the degree of deformation. With a sufficiently noticeable deformation, the beating can begin at very low speeds - from 30-40 km / h, and then it can stop and start again after a certain speed range. If you have new car, and you have never contacted tire shops for balancing, then you should inspect the weights (factory or pre-sale balancing should still be) - if if you have a car, you will find at least one weight weighing more than 50 grams (in in the case of new wheels, of course), then this is a reason to think and suspect disks or tires in a factory marriage.

Unfortunately, in the case when the steering wheel beats due to deformation of tires or disks, most often only their replacement will help, although, in cases where the disk is not very wrinkled in the rim, it can be rolled out on a special stand, which is also found in most tire shops. But in the case of a damaged-deformed tire, this trick will no longer work.

Insufficient tire pressure

Sometimes the cause of the vibration of the entire car (less often, the beating of the steering wheel) can be the wrong pressure in the tires of the car - namely, insufficient pressure. In this case, this is the easiest to diagnose and eliminate the reason that the machine vibrates.

Vibration hazard: Loose wheel bolts/nuts

Another easily eliminated and no less easily diagnosed cause of steering wheel beating and vibration throughout the car is simply loose bolts or nuts fastening a wheel (or several wheels at once, which is less common). The reason for the beating is simple, but the most dangerous - if you do not find the problem in time, and the wheel completely flies off the car, then this can end very badly both for you and for the surrounding road users. However, repairs in this case can turn out to be expensive if the cause of the vibration is not noticed in time - you will have to change the discs and, possibly, the brake disc or part of the hub, since the wheel will rub against loose bolts or cotter pins with great effort, which will lead to strong deformation of these bolts or cotter pins, as well as mounting holes in the disk.

The symptoms of beating for this reason are similar to those as if the beating was due to deformed disks or tires, with the difference that the beating can start at a very low speed - including at the very beginning of the movement, and the vibration itself may not be with a clearly monitored cyclicity and is not always observed at the same speeds.

Simply tighten all the wheel bolts/nuts on your vehicle to make sure this is not the cause.

Worn or defective suspension or steering components

Excessively worn suspension components can affect how the machine will make contact with the road. This is due to the fact that if any component (ball joint, tie rod, wheel bearing, etc.) has play, then this will practically lead to the same unbalance in rotation as if the same wheels were unbalanced . But it can also cause other problems other than wheel balance and excessive wear.

However, it should be borne in mind that the play of the suspension components cannot directly affect and cause the car to vibrate or the steering wheel to vibrate - in this case, the loose suspension part serves only as a catalyst (and sometimes very strong) for the vibration that the wheel gives, and in this case, when If we are talking about vibration due to a fault in the suspension, then we only mean that there are some problems in the suspension of your car, but the main cause is the wheels.

All this means that problems in the suspension and steering as the reasons that the steering wheel beats or the car vibrates should be among the last on the list (however, it is on our list), and vibration symptoms for this reason depend on from the main problem.

Vibration at idle or when the vehicle is stationary: engine or drive shaft

There is another problem of car vibration - sometimes it occurs due to loose fastenings to the engine car body - in this case, vibration often appears even on Idling V parked car, but it may well make itself felt only at the beginning of the movement, when you press the accelerator pedal and thereby increase the engine speed, as a result of which resonance occurs at certain speeds and an unfortunate vibration appears.

It is quite easy to distinguish such a vibration - it is quite high-frequency and entirely depends on the number of engine revolutions - thus, if you increase the speed with the gas pedal, the vibration also becomes more frequent.

The drive shaft is also subject to inspection, but in very rare cases. This is a rapidly rotating power part of the engine drive to the rear axle of the wheels in rear-wheel drive vehicles. If it is bent for one reason or another, then vibration may also appear. And in this case, the primary diagnosis is also simple: with an increase in the speed of the car and, at the same time, the invariance of the selected gearbox gear, the vibration will become more frequent.

Vibration when braking: brake drums or discs

If the vibration of the car or the beating on the steering wheel appears exclusively when braking, then there is a high probability that you have problems with the brake drum or disc (in the case of drum and disc brakes, respectively). This means that they simply deformed - their working surface became uneven - wavy, or they became not perfectly round.

Both of these components can get bent, either due to heavy wear, or (more often) due to overheating during long and hard braking, or - even more likely - during strong long braking and overheating, and then contact with water and sharp cooling to her as a result, for example, hitting a puddle. As a result of this, the brake disc often acquires an imperceptible slightly wavy shape, and the drum simply ceases to be perfectly round. However, the drum is much more difficult to deform in this way than the brake disc.

An overheated disc often takes on a bluish tint.

As a result of this deformation, the beating appears only during braking, when the brake pads come into contact and compress the drum or disc, as a result of which the entire rotating brake system begins to vibrate.

Unfortunately, in this case, only the replacement of the brake disc or drum will help.

What causes the steering wheel to shake? Causes of vibration on the steering wheel at speed Video

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The importance of the braking system in the complex of the car cannot be overestimated. That is why it is worth closely monitoring the condition of its components and identifying malfunctions in time.

This symptom often occurs even on new cars and the causes may be different. This manifests itself in shocks, and they, as a rule, are the stronger, the higher the speed at which braking is carried out. If such vibrations occur, the reason is in the state of the final elements of the system.

Vibration can manifest itself in different ways:

1. on the steering wheel;
2. throughout the body;
3. on the brake pedal.

In most cases, the origins of the problem lie in. But there are other options. And sometimes you have to go through a lot of probabilities before you can fix the problem. Main reasons:

• defective tires or wheels;
• unbalanced wheels;
• dirt;
• insufficient;
• wear of running gear components;
• deformation of the hub itself;
• loose bolts on wheels, etc.

Procedure for Vibration

Check brake pads and tire pressure

To begin with, it is necessary to consider the problem superficially. Sometimes vibration can occur due to a banal hernia on a tire or an illiterate one. This point needs to be checked immediately. Indeed, during the rotation of the wheel, a section with greater gravity will pull the center towards itself, provoking the emergence of centrifugal force.

If it's not about the tires and balancing, it is recommended to check the quality of the components. It is not uncommon, especially when the car is purchased from the hands, in the brake system you can find cheap and low-quality components installed by the previous owner in order to prepare the car for sale at a minimal cost. If there are frankly cheap brake pads and similar elements, it is better to replace them immediately.

The fact is that the material of low-quality brake pads can wear off and remain on the surface of the disc, which slightly changes its thickness, since the distribution is uneven. This also causes vibration when braking. First, you can try to remove dirt with a brush. If this does not help, the disc, along with the pads, will have to be replaced.

It's no secret that the grinding of brake pads occurs during the first 200 km, during which it is necessary to move measuredly and slow down smoothly. If these recommendations are not followed, the friction material on the pads is erased unevenly, which can cause vibrations.

If the tire pressure is uneven, vibrations can be transmitted to the steering wheel. You need to stop and check the pressure with.

Check discs for wear and overheating

Overheating / deformation of the front brake discs

Despite the fact that the design and execution of modern brake discs allows them to cool fairly quickly, with intensive braking, there is not enough time to remove heat resulting from friction and the disc overheats.

In this case, thermal spots appear on the shiny surface of the disk. of blue color and it deforms. Such a defect cannot be corrected and the disk should be replaced immediately. At the same time, it is unacceptable to leave the existing brake pads. In this case, they change with the disc.

Owners rarely pay attention to the thickness of the brake discs. As a result, the latter wear out so much that they are not able to perform their task. If there are wide edges on the edge, it is recommended to measure the thickness of the discs and compare it with the minimum allowable. It is not uncommon for vibrations to occur due to excessive wear on the disc. If there is a stock, it will not be superfluous to grind the components by giving them to a professional turner.

In addition, cases of disk deformation are not uncommon on domestic roads. After all, it is enough to drive into the pit at speed once to deform the disk. In addition, it is by no means necessary that the curvature will be noticeable visually - often this is only visible on a special stand. In some cases, the disk can be optimized and aligned, and sometimes you have to change it.

Check calipers and hubs

In this case, the rubber cuffs are often torn, which is why the caliper guides are wedged. In this case, you can independently disassemble them, replace the cuffs and assemble them.

Video: Vibration and vibrations on the steering wheel

Often the hub itself becomes a source of problems. Moreover, the cases may be different. The most commonplace is the presence of dirt or traces of corrosion on its surface, which is why it is impossible to plant the brake disc closely. To eliminate vibration, it is enough to clean the seating surfaces.

If the hub is being replaced, it is necessary to ask the master at the service station to inspect its condition with a special indicator. Occasionally, the hub may have defects, which will cause vibration in the future. This hub will need to be replaced. In addition, if you forget to clean the rust from the seat, the hub will not become tight.

Some owners tighten the wheel bolts so tight that the disc can warp due to excessive stress. Especially often this occurs for those who, contrary to the manufacturer's recommendations, lubricate the wheel bolts and, as a result, overtighten them. In this case, the disk will have to be replaced, and in the future, control the degree of tightening.

In addition, sometimes vibration when braking can be caused by a universal type installation for which . In the absence or damage of such a spacer, the disc will not be able to correctly center. If vibration occurs, the wheel will have to be checked with an indicator. In some cases, you have to change the wheel.

Check running gear

Here, vibration during braking can occur due to problems with the tie rod ends. If they noticeably play, they should be replaced immediately, otherwise problems may arise with the steering. Vibrations can also occur in the case of worn chassis components - silent blocks, ball bearings or wheel bearings. To check the condition of the ball joint, it will be enough to take it from below with one hand and from above with the other, and then shake it. If play is present, there is wear on the part and the need to replace it.

Any driver is very alarming when vibration begins on the body at a speed of 100-120 km / h, and at any other - in the same way. It's not so much about unpleasant sensations, although they do occur. However, if urgent measures are not taken, long-term vibration begins to affect the geometry of the body - little by little, gradually, but steadily.

Distortions, in turn, lead to a violation of aerodynamics and worsen the controllability of the car. In addition, the appearance of cracks in the body is very likely - and welding is one of the most expensive.

Moreover, nuts and bolts can spontaneously unscrew from vibration in any part of the car, which threatens with serious complications while driving, up to accidents and hard-to-repair damage. Let's add here the fact that such shaking can signal problems that are about to turn into breakdowns.

If this is not catastrophic within the city - he called a tow truck or asked for a cable and went to sort it out - then on long trips the prospect of spending the night in an open field looms without hope of reaching at least some settlement soon.

Vibration on the body at a speed of 100-120 km / h can be caused by various reasons, from completely innocent to requiring serious intervention in the inside of the car. But in half of the cases, even diagnostics and replacement of some parts will not be needed.

Reason one: wheels

Feeling the shaking, do not immediately assume the worst. In most cases, stingrays are to blame. Sometimes even a visual inspection is enough to verify this.

Moreover, depending on the size of the wrong angle, it can shake only during acceleration or in a certain speed range. Purely outwardly incorrect camber/convergence quickly manifests itself as uneven tire wear. If the inner or outer side of the tire is worn more, you are dealing with just such a situation. Adjustment will immediately eliminate the runout.

This point is directly related to the previous one. You've corrected the corner, but left the old rubber on - it rides the way it's used to. You need to either change the wheels, or drive slowly and carefully for a while until the wear becomes uniform over the entire surface.

The impact of the disk and the violation of its geometry can also cause vibration, and at non-urban speeds. Dents and potholes are found even with a superficial examination. Editing or replacing the disk will correct the situation.

Another common cause of shaking is the loss of balance weights. Passing an unscheduled wheel balancing will save you from vibration.

It will not be superfluous to check the wheel fasteners: a lost bolt also causes serious beating.

Reason two: running

There can also be several factors that cause vibration.

• Bending on the drive shaft of the wheel. An additional sign of such damage is the constant shaking that occurs with the start of movement and increases as the speed increases. At 100 km / h you feel inside a baby rattle, at 120 it becomes difficult to keep the car from leaving the trajectory;
• Often vibration overtakes after changing the brake discs. And then she frankly says that one of them is not securely fixed. From speed, the disk dangles and is given into the body;
• CV joints are the most common culprits for shaking (after wheels and rubber). The check will be elementary: we take the shaft and turn it. If there is even the slightest backlash - replace the CV joint, and immediately. An additional sign of its failure can be a torn rubber component of the anther;
• And, of course, wheel bearings. If they are damaged, the body can (and most likely will) shake at any speed.

Other reasons

All of the above problems can lead to vibration at different speeds. However, if it appears only on large ones, then the engine becomes the main suspect, namely, its incorrect installation. Naturally, this should be preceded by a replacement or overhaul of the motor, which is why we did not mention this factor in the forefront. To get rid of the consequences of the negligence of the craftsmen, you will have to remove the suspension, slightly loosen the supports supporting the engine, and then return the suspension to its place.

Quite a lot of fuss due to obvious hack-work, and paid for by you! The cardan shaft, including its imbalance, can also lead to vibrations at high speeds. In this case, you need to blame first of all the crosses.

If vibration in the body at a speed of 100-120 km / h is caused by them, you will need to remove the shaft, first check the crosses (they should move freely even with slight pressure), then the presence of grease in the roller bearings, and then the spline connection. If it is worn or damaged, the cardan will have to be completely replaced.