The fashion of gangsters and their fighting girlfriends: the unsurpassed and flawless style of walking on the razor's edge. American gangsters of the 20th century - stories and pictures from a century ago
The American gangster is as iconic as the cowboy. And although it is not a woman’s business to organize crimes, there are many representatives of the fair sex in history who proved the opposite with their lives. John Dillinger, Al Capone and Bugsy Siegel are names everyone knows. But have you ever heard of Stephanie St. Clair or Marie Baker from the Panties gang? No?! So it's time to get to know them?
1. Bonnie Parker
Without a doubt the most famous female gangster in the United States of America, Parker became part of the cult crime duo Bonnie and Clyde. Both were notorious bank robbers; their criminal activity fell on the beginning of the 1930s - "the era of enemies of the state."
Parker was born in the city of Rowena (Texas), where she was reputed to be an intelligent and open girl. She met Clyde Barrow in 1930. They quickly hit it off with each other, despite the fact that Parker was already married. The legend of Bonnie and Clyde arose not only from the robberies and murders they committed, but also partly from a photo shoot they made near Joplin, Missouri, the place where the couple was hiding from the law. These pictures still inspire writers and filmmakers to create interpretations of their lives and deaths. Bonnie and Clyde died in a horrific shootout with police in 1934. She was 23, he was 25.
2. Stephanie St. Clair
In Manhattan she was known as "Queenie" and in Harlem she was known as Madame St. Clair. St. Clair, an African American by birth, emigrated from France to the United States in 1912. Ten years later, she opened her own business - The Numbers Game (a type of underground lottery) - and became fiercely protective of her district. She testified against corrupt cops who took payments from the protection of the business, for which they were fired from the police. In addition, she prevented the mafia from the downtown area from seizing power in her area, who, after the end of the Prohibition, decided to take over the sleeping quarters as a new source of income.
Thanks to his chief enforcer (note: member of a gangster gang whose function is to enforce demands or enforce sentences) Ellsworth "Bumpy" Johnson and a marriage alliance with Lucky Luciano Madame St. Clair succeeded in driving Dutch Schultz out of Harlem. She was triumphant when she learned that Schultz was dying in the hospital from a gunshot wound, and decided to send him a note in which she wrote famous saying: "What you sow, you will reap." When St. Clair retired, her place was taken by "Bumpy", who later became known as " Godfather Harlem."
3. Opal "Mc-Truck" Long
Opal Long, allegedly born in Texas, was nicknamed "McTruck" (note: heavy freight car manufactured by the American company Mack Trucks) because of her large size (although, of course, no one called her that in person). She was a member of the John Dillinger gang, where she got thanks to her husband Russell Clark. Caring by nature, Long, who preferred to be called Bernice Clark, happily cooked and cleaned the house where her husband's accomplices, whom she considered native family.
Things went awry when her husband was arrested in Tucson, Arizona on January 25, 1934. She first attacked the police officers who took part in the arrest, and later begged Dillinger to borrow money from her in order to hire a good lawyer for Russell. For this reason, Opal was asked to leave the gang. In the summer of that year, she went to prison. Long never held a grudge against those who once replaced her family. In November 1934, she received parole. Opal lived out her days in Chicago.
4. Helen Gillis
At sixteen, Helen Wawrzyniak made the fateful decision to marry Lester Gillis, the man who became known as Baby Nelson. By the age of twenty, she had given birth to two children and, thanks to her husband, was included in the list of enemies of the state, who were ordered "not to be taken alive." Helen herself considered herself an accomplice, and not a member of an organized criminal group, however, as it turned out, she was directly involved (along with her husband and his friend John Paul Chase) in a tough shootout with cops that took place in the small town of Barrington (Illinois) November 27, 1934 and resulted in the deaths of two policemen and Baby Nelson.
Gillis received an "honorable" place on the list of enemies of the state, saving her dying husband from police persecution. She gave up on Thanksgiving. Angry at Chase over Nelson's death, Helen testified against him, securing him a life sentence. She died in the late 1980s and was buried next to her beloved husband, Baby Nelson, in Chicago's St. Joseph Cemetery.
5. Mother Barker
Arizona Donnie Barker (aka Kate Barker) was reputed to be a merciless woman. At nineteen, Arizona Clarke married George Barker; they had four sons: Herman, Lloyd, Arthur and Fred. But the Barkers were no ordinary family; in 1910 they began to engage in highway robbery.
Their criminal activities could not fail to attract the attention of the press and the general public in the Midwest. Fate ceased to be kind to the Barkers in 1927, when Herman committed suicide to avoid arrest. Shortly thereafter, Lloyd, Arthur, and Fred were imprisoned. The last of them was released in 1931, and he, along with his mother, continued to commit crimes, which led to tragic consequences.
Arizona and Fred were killed on January 8, 1935, when the FBI stormed their hideout near Lake Weir, Florida. After Barker's death, real discussions broke out regarding her place in the criminal gang. People who maintained close relations with the family claimed that she played no active role in the criminal affairs of her sons, but John Edgar Hoover, who served as director of the Federal Bureau of Investigation from 1924 to 1972, spoke of her as the most vicious, dangerous and resourceful representative of the criminal world last decade.
6. Pearl Elliott
Pearl had close ties to John Dillinger and Harry Pierponton, however, she was not a dependent or anyone's accomplice. Elliott kept a brothel in the small town of Kokomo, Indiana; the institution was under the protection of the local police, who, at the signal of the hostess, immediately came to her aid in case any client began to behave inappropriately.
IN brothel Pearl was also hiding out with the Pierponton gang after a bank robbery in 1925. In 1933, for her connections with Dillinger, Elliott was included in the list of enemies of the state, who were ordered to "shoot to kill." She died at the age of 47 from a serious illness - presumably cancer.
7. The leader of the gang "Pants" - Marie Baker
Lawbreaker Marie Baker, an attractive brunette with brown eyes and a habit of carrying two pistols at all times, made headlines in 1933 following a series of store robberies by the Panty Gang, so named because of a strange demand they made. its ringleader to the victims-sellers. When there were no customers left in the store, Baker took out a weapon from her pocket and commanded: “Take off your pants!”, After which she burst into loud laughter.
According to Miami News, Marie was killed by vanity. When Baker was aiming a marathon during a robbery of a butcher's shop, her owner took advantage of the opportunity and slipped out of the hands of the criminal. She was soon arrested. It was later revealed that her real name was Rose Durante. She served three years in prison; After her release, no one heard from her again.
8 Virginia Hill
Known as the "Flamingo" and "Queen of the Gangster World", Virginia Hill was the lover of famed Brooklyn gangster Bugsy Siegel. She came from a poor family, telling everyone that she only got her first pair of shoes at the age of seventeen. At a young age, Virginia left the small town in Georgia where she grew up and went to conquer Chicago. Here she did nothing. Not for a long time After working as a black cash courier for Al Capone's gang, Hill traveled to Los Angeles to discover her acting talent. Here she met Bugsy Siegel, who became her lover. Later, he opened a hotel in Las Vegas, which he named after Virginia - "Flamingo". June 20, 1947 Bugsy was killed in own house in Hollywood, where he lived with Hill.
Virginia was lucky enough to be away at the time. She later claimed: “He loved his hotel in Las Vegas more than me. I had no idea that he was involved in all these dirty deeds. I don't know why they killed him." In 1961, Hill was found dead on one of ski resorts Austria. Presumably, she died from an overdose of sleeping pills, although many believe that it was a premeditated murder.
9. Arlene Brickman
Arlene Brickman was born in 1933 to a Jewish family living in East Harlem. From childhood, the girl idealized the lifestyle of Virginia Hill and decided to follow in her footsteps. She dealt drugs, worked as a pawnbroker and a bet collector in an illegal lottery. Jewish origin did not allow Arlene to advance in a criminal career, and she did not particularly strive for this, since she already had enough money and power.
Years later, after her daughter was threatened by moneylenders, Brickman became an informant. With her denunciations and espionage, she helped put extortionist Anthony Scarpati and several of his accomplices behind bars.
10. Evelyn "Billy" Frechette
Evelyn Frechette was the devoted mistress of the famous criminal John Dillinger. She came from a mixed family (her descendants were considered the French and American Indians from the Menominee tribe), attended a Catholic school and received a fairly good education. The girl for a long time could not find a job in her hometown, so she decided to leave for Chicago. Immediately after her first husband was imprisoned for robbing a post office, Frechette met Dillinger and joined his gang. The couple survived several gruesome shootings.
In 1934, Evelyn was arrested and tried for harboring a fugitive. She was given two years. When she got out of prison, Dillinger was no longer alive. In 1936, Frechette decided to end her criminal past and went on a lecture tour of the United States, which was called "Crime is never justified." She died of cancer at the age of 33.
Rosemarina - based on material from
The term "gangster" is used mainly in relation to members of criminal organizations in the USA, Italy, Latin America and other countries associated with Prohibition or with the American offshoot of the Italian mafia. Before you - genuine criminal photographs of the early XX century. Outstanding Representatives criminal world and very colorful personalities ...
Pictures of "American gangsters and people of the mafia" almost a century ago. All photographs of criminals of the early 20th century were taken after their arrest between 1920 and 1928.
The seasoned gangster Stanley Moore from Chicago, nicknamed "The Inquisitor", was responsible for the execution of debtors and people who "stand in the way" of the mafia. From the note of the criminal case: Differs in extreme cruelty, does not compromise.
Prostitutes working for the mafia, during sexual intimacy, lured out valuable information from clients and “leaked” it to criminal patrons.
The owner of a well-known brothel in her circles personally sent 7 people to the next world - by poisoning. Everything is motivated by the purpose of robbery and profit.
Mafia members who controlled part of New York were responsible for labor unions, alcohol and tobacco supplies. Assassinations and armed raids were the usual trade of these "noble" men. Befriended John Dillinger.
Mr. Sing is a mercenary and generalist. He worked for the mafia, skillfully eliminated competitors, policemen and officials. He poisoned the unfortunate with various poisons, through Asian specificity
The leader of the gang of Chicago gangsters - Smith (Bone Hand) and his assistant Jones, were engaged in "protection" of brothels with girls, gambling, drugs, robberies of collectors and murders of wealthy Americans for profit. The note of the criminal case says: They have the gift of instilling fear, are very dangerous, they will kill without hesitation.
This sweet lady met men on the street, flirted and invited them to visit her for “tea”. She treated guests to wine or tea with arsenic. She robbed and sold her belongings to buyers of stolen goods, all the way down to the laces of her victims.
The owner of a dashing bar, on the outskirts of New York, Ms. Turner, worked to the last client, and, together with her assistant, was often killed in the Meat Cutting Room for the purpose of robbery. The note in the criminal file says: If he finds out that you have cash with you, you are dead.
The man in the middle is the leader known as "Bloody Fletcher". On account of his gang of gangsters, a huge number of contract killings and kidnappings for ransom. The gang did not disdain to steal children, high-ranking officials and big policemen. In the note of the criminal case it is said: Do not put them in prison together, only on their own, they are very dangerous and cruel, they can kill cellmates in a dispute.
The man in the short pants is the accountant of the Chicago mob. In prison, under pressure from the police, he repented, but immediately after, he was found hanged by his cellmate. On the chest was a scrawled inscription: "I said everything and fell silent forever."
And that's pretty early period photos. April 1865, Lewis Powell, Confederate patriot, accomplice in the assassination of Lincoln, three months before his execution by hanging.
Smith is the senior rank-and-file fighters of the "shooters" of the mafia. In the note of the criminal case it is said: He is distinguished by his abilities of suggestion, cunning and ruthlessness towards the enemies of the mafia, he shoots very accurately.
The most dangerous, ethnic and cruel gang of two Farlane brothers. They hunted robberies on the roads and in distant areas of the states. Apparently they didn’t have time to earn anything, as they walk in torn rags and holey shoes.
Thief prostitutes. They drugged customers with alcohol by shaking the contents out of their pockets. They worked for the mafia, the most valuable and talkative clients were handed over to the criminals.
Mafia prostitutes. They got acquainted with rich clients in restaurants, began to have romances with them, after that, the romance ended in a bloody massacre with the theft of all the contents in the apartments of "lover's grief".
18-19-year-old prostitutes, from a brothel, were engaged in theft, not creation.
Big seasoned gangsters from Chicago. More than once they covered the John Dillinger gang from the police. Supervised workers' unions and gambling. Closely engaged in prostitution, armed robbery, "protection" of businessmen and drug dealers. The two on the right are two brothers, who became famous for beating a police informer with butcher hooks, after hanging on the main street with a sign on his chest: "He spoke a lot and all to the wrong people." The note of the criminal case says: Very dangerous and ruthless, despite their courtesy and intelligence.
Famous gangsters from Chicago. They didn’t disdain anything, they robbed collectors, bank branches, jewelry stores. main feature: they killed everyone, leaving no witnesses.
A lone thief, climbed to the first and second floors in the apartments of the victims, strangled and took out everything of value from the apartments. Why is photographed in the toilet and remains a mystery. The note in the criminal file says: First-class rock climber and strangler.
Hardened car thief Fitch, nicknamed (Smooth) from Chicago. He worked for the mafia, extracting, for its dark deeds, stolen cars. He also stole cars and then sold them for parts.
Ross is a mob lawyer, nicknamed "The Old Man". For a long time he did not want to testify against members of a large group of gangsters from Los Angeles, but after testifying against its members, his entire family was found dead in the city center in their house. A month later, he was strangled by inmates while sleeping. Scrawled on the chest was the inscription: "I just liked to talk a lot."
Insulted wife. After she found out that her husband was repeatedly cheating on her, she applied "Gestapo torture" to the unlucky one, although they didn’t even smell like that even then. She made her husband drunk to unconsciousness, filled the bath with boiling water and “brewed” him to death. The husband died, so plainly and not understanding what was the matter. She herself came to the police with a confession and told everything.
Feytrill is a juvenile thief, a burglar. At the time of his arrest, he was 16 years old. After rewinding the term, he was caught stealing again in 1928.
Mr. Faleni - first killed his first wife, served time. After he married again and killed the second. I never got into the Guinness Book of Records, although I probably had a desire.
Sydney Kelly, a very dangerous mobster from Los Angeles. He worked closely for the mafia in other states. On his account: contract killings, armed attacks, drugs and pimping. Knew and did unproven cases with John Dillinger.
Gracie and Dalton - very serious "colorful" gangsters from Los Angeles, were part of the elite of the American mafia. They were engaged in labor unions of factories and plants, gambling, hippodromes, finances of mafia groups. They did not disdain to personally kill a caught informer or competitor.
"Debt bouncers" of businessmen and mafia debtors. They were engaged in the seizure of money, health and sometimes the lives of debtors. The note of the criminal case says: Very dangerous, they have the gift of persuasion and severe psychological pressure.
Buyer of stolen goods, worked for the mafia. I bought everything from prostitutes and thieves for the purpose of resale.
The thief is a housekeeper. He stole and, if necessary, killed the owners of the home. In the note of the criminal case it is said: Very cunning, dexterous, likes to pretend to be mentally ill for the effect of pity.
Little Schmidt is a homeless child, a thief. He worked for the mafia, was a courier for the transfer of valuable notes between shops and brothels. When caught by the police, he instantly ate valuable notes with instructions.
Mr. Skukerman - dealt with a scam with securities and fraud in ports for the mafia.
Twenty-year-old thief of shops and houses. On account of his theft in homes and shops, pickpocketing and rape. In the note of the criminal case it is said: Particularly dangerous, dexterous, cunning, prone to escape and panicking.
Murray - burglary, burglar. The peculiarity of this character is that he used all the prey to drink and prostitutes. So he did not have time to get rich because of his weaknesses.
Vera is a thief, a swindler. She entered into confidence, pretending to be a new neighbor to the tenants of the apartments, while carefully cleaning their housing. Participated in robberies with the mafia in jewelry stores, took on "distraction maneuvers" during the robbery.
Walter Smith - the most dangerous bandit, a thunderstorm of the street. In the specifics, which were street robberies and contract killings from the mafia. He did not like weapons, he killed people with his bare hands, carefully turning their heads off like roosters in dark alleys. The note of the criminal case says: Very dangerous, has pronounced sadistic inclinations, can bite, there is no feeling of fear, put him alone.
Ellis is an authority in a gang of Chicago gangsters, a favorite of women. He was engaged in the organization of crimes, incited accomplices to commit crimes, completely controlled the division of booty. The note of the criminal case says: Particularly cruel and dangerous, outstanding leadership qualities, intolerant of the police and the law.
Lucky, aka Charles Luciano is an American criminal of Sicilian origin, one of the leaders of organized crime in the United States. The list of his crimes was racketeering, robbery, drug trafficking, organization of underground gambling houses, pimping, smuggling and many other types of criminal activity. Luciano was the strongest intellectual of the underworld.
Al Capone
Full name: Alfonso Gabriel Capone
Nickname: "Big Al"
Birthplace: Brooklyn, New York USA
date of birth: January 17, 1899
date of death: January 25, 1947
The powerful wave of crime that swept America from 1924 to 1936 gave birth to Al Capone, the “boss of bosses” of the US criminal world, the leader of the largest and most powerful criminal organization in the world, Cosa Nostra, in the translation “Our business”.
Al Capone traded in smuggling (bootlegging), pimping and gambling.
IN early years started out as a bouncer had a big physical strength to which he often resorted! He got his famous scar on his face in a stabbing with felon Frank Galluccio. Al was very ashamed of this story and therefore told everyone that he received a scar in the First World War in the Lost Battalion. Although historians say that he was not in the war! Al Capone pushed his boss Torrio to take his place.
Under Alcapone, the war between gangs and the elimination of competitors acquired a war of unprecedented magnitude. Several thousand soldiers died! The practice of eliminating unwanted elements for the mafia included grenades and car explosions. Al was suspected of at least 2 murders. They say he participated in the "Massacre on Valentine's Day" when the bandits, dressed in police uniforms, shot their competitors near the wall thinking that this was a police raid!
Alcapone was always under the supervision of the authorities and could not spend all his illegal money without income for this, he opened a network of laundries, whose financial sweat you can’t follow due to their high attendance from the need and low prices, so it was easy to launder money through them. He is credited with the words "It's just a business! Nothing more!"
In 1931, Capone was jailed for 10 years for tax evasion. In 1934 he was transferred to famous prison Alcatraz. left after seven years.
On January 21, 1947, Capone suffered a stroke, after which he regained consciousness and even recovered, but on January 24 he was diagnosed with pneumonia. The next day, Capone died of cardiac arrest.
John Torrio
Full name Giovanni Torrio
nickname: papa johnny
Birthplace: Chicago, Illinois
date of birth: January 20, 1882
date of death: April 16, 1957 (aged 75)
Known as "The Fox" due to his subtle mind and diplomatic connections. Torrio, one of the founders of the "Chicago organization" Started working as a doorman and a bouncer. Soon he saved up money and opened his own billiard room. This is where the illegal gaming business, prostitution and bookmaking began.
He also took Al Capone to work in Chicago because he had friction with the law! Al became Johnny's bouncer in a brothel, and then the manager of his brothels, and soon after the shootout, Johnny had to retire and Al Capone replaced him.
After the adoption of Prohibition in America, Johnny realized what benefits could be taken from this by smuggling alcohol, His partner and relative Colosimo was against it, Johnny realized that he needed to be removed because he could interfere and in 1920 Colosimo was killed.
Torrio Thought about expanding the influence of his organization But 2 more groups ruled the city and a shaky alliance was concluded between them. But soon Dion O'Banion, the leader of the northern group, deceived Johnny Torrio. Torrio ordered that O'Banion be killed. On November 10, 1924, O "Banion was killed. After that, a bloody War began that lasted several years. In this war, Johnny was shot, but he survived, after he was cured, he spent a year, when he came out, he handed over all the cases to Capone, he himself went to Italy .
In the 1930s, he returned to the United States and suggested that all the leaders of large gangs create a Crime Syndicate in New York that unites all gangs. This offer was accepted and he enjoyed great respect in the criminal environment.
In 1957 he had a heart attack while sitting in a barber's chair waiting for a haircut. Johnny Torrio died a few hours later in an oxygen tent at the hospital.
Enoch Johnson
Full name: Enoch Lewis Johnson
Nickname: "Nucky"
Birthplace: Norfland New Jersey
Date of birth: January 20, 1883
date of death: December 9, 1968 (aged 85)
A major political figure from Atlantic City, who was almost openly partnered with many well-known gangsters. He is also famous as a ladies' man and a party lover. Nickname "Nucky" got because of his name. In 1905 he became his father's deputy sheriff. After he took his post in 1908. After him, his brother took the post of sheriff.
In 1911 he became leader of the Republican Party and boss of Atlantic City. Served as Chief Treasurer, Bank Director (many positions) As leader of the Republican Party, Nucky was responsible for electing several Governors and Senators.
During Prohibition in America, Atlantic City began to prosper even more in every bar and restaurant selling Whiskey. Everything was corrupt and in this city the authorities made concessions on the sale of alcohol. Johnson had a percentage of every gallon of liquor sold in the city. Engaged in corruption, bribery.
Johnson and Capone on the wharf
Nucky rode in an expensive limousine, wore expensive clothes, Lived in a suite at the most expensive Ritz hotel. He was generous to the needy, for which the townspeople loved him. In 1927, he entered the largest criminal organization of liquor dealers and racketeers, the so-called "Big Seven" (Capone was a member of it, so apparently we already know what will happen in the continuation of the series). Why did he fall under the close supervision of the federal service!
On May 10, 1939, he was charged with tax evasion. In 1941 he was convicted, he was sentenced to 10 years in prison. On August 15, 1945, he was released on parole. And I forgot to say he always wore a Red Carnation, after his release he continued to wear it! Johnson died on December 9, 1968.
By the way…
As in any activity, including criminal, gangsters had prices certain types services. Here, for example, what was the gangster "price list" in the 30s:
beating - $ 2;
two black eyes - $4;
broken nose and broken jaw - $10;
detachment of the ear - $ 15;
broken arm or leg - $19;
a bullet in the leg - $25;
knife wound - $ 25;
"large work" - $100 or more
Lo Piccolo was the Boss of two clans at once and controlled most of the suburbs of Palermo. He has been on the wanted list since 1983 - for several decades he was hunted, but no one managed to catch him ...
During the arrest, one very interesting document was seized from the mafiosi - "The Ten Commandments of Cosa Nostra" - an unofficial set of laws that every member of a criminal organization must follow. The document was kept in a leather briefcase among other business papers of the arrested person.
The origin of the name Cosa Nostra is very simple - translated from the Sicilian language, it means "Our Cause". This criminal network, defined by some as the Mafia, has been operating in Sicily since early XIX century, turning into a serious international organization at the beginning of the 20th century.
"The Ten Commandments of the Mafia"
1. No one can come up and introduce himself to one of "our" friends. It must be introduced by another friend of ours.
2. Never look at your friends' wives.
3. Do not allow yourself to be seen in the company of the police.
4. Don't go to bars and clubs.
5. It is your duty to always be at the disposal of the Cosa Nostra, even if your wife is in labor.
6. Always show up for appointments on time.
7. Wives must be treated with respect.
8. If you are asked to give any information, answer truthfully.
9. Money that belongs to other Cosa Nostra members or their relatives must not be embezzled.
10. The following persons may not enter Cosa Nostra: one whose close relative is in the police force; the one whose relative or relative is cheating on his wife (wife); one who behaves badly and does not observe moral principles.
However, the laws of the underworld assumed not only a certain code of honor and behavior, but also required compliance with a special dress code.
Gangster style of clothing is traditionally associated with mafia clans that operated in the United States in the 20s, 30s and 40s of the XX century. The very term "gangster" today has essentially become an anachronism. This word has a very clear connotation associated with a certain period in history, and, of course, carries not only a special meaning, but also special style. Without a doubt, representatives of the criminal elite of those years can be safely called trendsetters of the highest fashion. After all, paradoxically, the mafia was a real beau monde.
Since 1920, there have been many magnificent criminals in expensive suits and with sonorous names. Among the most well-known representatives this dangerous profession were: "Scarface" - Al Capone, Charles "Lucky" Luciano, George "Bugs" Moran, Jack "Legs" Diamond and Arthur "Dutch Schultz" Flegenheimer. In the thirties, Charles "Pretty Boy" Floyd and Lester "Baby Nelson" Gillis are added to them. And finally, by 1940, Benjamin "Bugsy" Siegel joins the brilliant company.
Tailored suit has key value for the gangster. In his book Inventing the Public Enemy: The Gangster in American Culture 1918-1934, writer David E. Ruth discusses Prohibition-era Mafia fashion: to always be on the cutting edge of fashion ... "
A tastefully furnished apartment, a luxurious new car, diamond rings, permanent diamonds on a tie clip, an elegant belt buckle… Fifty suits, twenty-five pairs of shoes…
When choosing the material of the costume, the gangsters preferred smooth fabrics - no tweed or thick English wool! No "sloppy" or "tired" elegance, in the spirit of the Prince of Wales, Edward VIII, who was a trendsetter in men's fashion on the other side of the ocean. As for the color, it was mostly shades of blue, brown or gray. No less popular was black smooth matter in a small vertical strip with a noble silk sheen.
The suit was a classic two or three with a double-breasted jacket. Needless to say, the fit had to be flawless, the shirts had to be perfectly ironed, and the shoes had to be polished to a shine.
Shirts could be plain (often quite brightly colored) or pinstriped, often with a white collar and cuffs. For the most part, ties were tied dark, but with an indispensable interspersing of shiny fiber. In special cases, the tie could be replaced with a laconic bow tie - as a symbol of exceptional chic. As for headwear, every decent gangster must have a hat in their wardrobe. Number one is the fedora hat, also known as Borsalino (named after an Italian company that has been producing top-class hats since the middle of the 19th century). The classic form of Borsalino (a headdress made of soft felt, wrapped once with a ribbon, with a soft brim and three dents on the crown) is inextricably linked with the image of Al Capone. Today, Borsalino is not only a thriving cult brand, but also a household word that has entered the explanatory dictionaries. Most of the branded boutiques of this brand are concentrated in Italy.
- Coordinates: www.borsalino.com
Continuing the list of items of the "gentleman's set", we should certainly mention the legendary perforated shoes - brogues (from the English broguing - broguing, that is, punching holes in the skin). As a rule, the top of a brogue type shoe consists of several elements. A characteristic feature is the detachable toe of various configurations.
Also among the obligatory elements of the costume are cufflinks in the cuffs of the shirt and pins for the collar - certainly with a shining diamond. Next - a silk handkerchief in the breast pocket of a jacket, And, finally, final chord- unimaginably expensive pocket watch on a massive chain.
One of the most elegant and spectacular representatives of an irretrievably bygone era is the notorious Chicago gangster Al Capone. Even 70 years after his death, biographers speak of him as the most stylish mobster of all time.
Such a reputation for Capone was formed precisely because of his luxurious costumes. The typical gangster look consisted of a chic blue three-piece, accentuated by a canary yellow or green silk shirt, and the invariable Borsalino hat in white or cream. The ensemble was complemented by: a silk tie and scarf, Italian (certainly underwear) gloves, pearl gray leggings and a platinum watch chain with diamonds. A raccoon fur coat, a $50,000 11.5-carat diamond ring, and, of course, a large cigar completed the look.
Capone's costumes have always been impeccable. When the best one cost $85, Capone could order twenty for $150 each. His wardrobe consisted of over one and a half hundred suits and the same number of pairs of shoes.
Too attractive and even more dangerous gangsters chose their appropriate companions. "Femme fatale" or "femme fatale" is the most appropriate phrase. Companions of professional criminals even got their name - Gun moll (gangster moll), which can literally be translated as "combat girlfriend".
This term came into use in the first decade of the 20th century. The etymology of the word "moll" goes back to the 17th century, when prostitutes and pickpockets were called that way. Nowadays, "moll" refers to slang - a word that characterizes women of free sexual morals, as well as girlfriends of gangsters, surfers, bikers and rock musicians.
It should be noted that most of the mafia wives were ideal guardians of the family hearth and had nothing to do with impartial epithets addressed to them. This is due to the fact that the concept of "family" for immigrants from Italy has always been of key importance.
The ill-fated "prohibition" that stunned America in 1919, as you know, gangster groups that traded in bootlegging became more active in the country.
The "Roaring Twenties" or "Golden Twenties" swept the world, ushering in a crazy era of overflowing energy filled with sex, alcohol, and jazz.
And, if for Europe this time was marked by the desire to forget all the hardships and hardships of the First World War as soon as possible, then America, without any good reason, immediately went into all serious trouble.
Women's fashion was appropriate. The twenties gave birth to a universal collective image of a woman, who received the nickname "tomboy" (la Garçonne). In America, a generation of fashionable, emancipated, enjoying life women, behaving freely and uninhibitedly, was called "flappers". One of the meanings of the word "flapper" in colloquial English language- this is a girl who is a windy person, eccentric, without special moral principles.
The beauties of the crazy decade in unison have chosen for themselves new image. Laid down by the waves short haircut, a straight silhouette of dresses, a long (up to two meters) string of pearls or rock crystal, a twenty-centimeter mouthpiece in a hand with a blood-red manicure. An indispensable hat "bell" and a coat just below the knee with an obligatory fur collar. The make-up of the 20s is catchy and dramatic: dark red lips, thinly arched eyebrows, expressive eyelashes in a theatrical way, dense smoky shadows and, finally, black as coal eyeliner.
Skirt length is not an example old days rapidly shortened, and by 1925 rose above the knee. Light flowing fabrics are in vogue. Feathers, sequins, flowers, embroidery, as well as long fringe trims served as decorations for evening dresses, which created spectacular waves during the dance. Miniature handbags, equipped with a small mirror inside, primarily served as cosmetic bags.
On Thursday, October 24, 1929, the New York Stock Exchange crash ended the Mad Twenties. The released film "Lulu" (with Louise Brooks in leading role) marked the end of the silent film era and the beginning of the Great Depression.
The ostentatious luxury and ease of being in the spirit of "flappers" gave way to a new elegance. The female ideal gradually lost the features of carefree youth and cheerful worldview. Now fashion is focusing on a more mature feminine look. “The fashion symbol of the crisis era was long skirts, which crept down sharply immediately after the crash on the New York Stock Exchange.” Extravagance again gave way to the classics, whose name is "neoclassicism".
At the suggestion of the Hollywood film stars of the 30s, including Jean Harlow, Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Carole Lombard and Mae West, the style of "glamor" became incredibly popular, which received the name "Odeon" in France.
The ideal appearance was possessed by a woman with slim figure, narrow waist and hips, small breasts, perms on bleached hair and light makeup with bright scarlet lipstick.
Evening and cocktail dresses in the 30s were certainly long - with a deep neckline or open back, with numerous drapery and pleat options. Along with representatives of the aristocratic elite and bohemians, this image was also chosen by the brilliant companions of gangsters.
In the 1920s and 1930s, the ready-to-wear industry was only gaining momentum. The concept of "obsession" fashion brands” simply did not exist, because most of the clothes were made to order. And yet there is one cult brand, to which the most demanding representatives of the criminal world had a special trepidation - this is the oldest American manufacturer men's suits- Brooks Brothers. It's no secret that many gangsters preferred to dress with them.
The company was founded in Manhattan in 1818 as a family business. Her credo sounded like this: “Making clothes from the best materials, its sale at an adequate cost, and cooperation only with those people who are looking for and appreciate such clothes. The symbol of the Golden Fleece was chosen as a logo - a lamb hanging on a ribbon.
Today, the Brooks Brothers network has over two hundred stores in the US and 70 in other countries around the world. The oldest flagship store has not changed its address for almost two centuries - it is located on Madison Avenue. By the way, in addition to tailoring exclusive suits, the Brooks Brothers also publish a series of books on etiquette and style for ladies and gentlemen.
- Coordinates: www.brooksbrothers.com
Uninformed people call Brooks Brothers a conservative brand. But this is absolutely false. Throughout its history, the company has introduced all sorts of innovations to the clothing market. Of the most iconic, the button-down collar proposed by John Brooks in 1896. In addition, Brooks Brothers introduced a European novelty into American fashion - pink shirts, which for 1900 became a real sensation.
An interesting story is connected with the black suits, which the Brooks Brothers did not release from 1865 to 1998. There is a story related to US President Abraham Lincoln, who was shot dead in a theater box while wearing a black tailcoat tailored by BB tailors. And, according to the legend, it was from that day that a taboo arose in the company for black suits. However, fashion historians still cannot fully figure out whether this taboo really has anything to do with the death of the president, or whether it's all about traditional American fashion rules. Indeed, in the daytime, only representatives of the service personnel and the dead wore black suits.
