The engine does not develop power: causes and troubleshooting. The engine does not develop full power

At the present time, a fairly common problem in many cars is that the engine does not work at full power. If in this case the problem is not corrected as soon as possible, this is fraught with consequences. Firstly, in this mode, engine wear is significantly increased, which can lead to failure of its main components. Secondly, there is a significant deterioration in the driving characteristics of the car. Thirdly, an increase in fuel consumption is possible.

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Causes of engine failure

Of course, the first thing to do is to diagnose and determine the cause of the problem. In this case, there may be several:

• repeated strong overheating of the engine;
• incorrect operation of the ignition system;
• insufficient filling of the cylinders or the supply of a poor working mixture;
• a significant drop in the level of compression in the cylinders;
• engine malfunctions.

First you should check ignition system because the ignition may be too early or too late.

In this case, the exhaust manifold is very hot, at low speeds the engine will not work well, and when starting with the handle, it will sometimes give back blows. With all this, frequent knocks of a metallic nature in the engine will be constantly heard. If so, just adjust the ignition system. Otherwise, the problem should be sought in the vacuum and centrifugal regulators or in the automatic preignition control devices.

The main reasons for the failure of the centrifugal regulator, which corrects the ignition timing depending on the number of revolutions, are the weakening of the springs and the sticking of the weights. You can determine this using synchronograph.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to replace the weakened springs with new ones or eliminate the jamming of the weights.

Vacuum regulator may not work properly due to jamming of the ball bearing of the breaker panel, air leakage into the spring plane, or loss of spring elasticity. It is diagnosed in the same way as centrifugal - using a synchronograph. With such a malfunction, it is necessary to correct the operation of the advance angle regulators and correctly set the ignition. In addition, the cause of a decrease in engine power may be seizing throttle valve on the axis, that is, its incomplete opening. At the same time, the axle should be cleaned and the damper drive should be checked to eliminate the cause of jamming.

The next step is to inspect air filter, and if necessary, wash disassembled, and then change the oil. Plus, it is imperative to check the health of the springs and valves of the gas distribution device, adjust the clearance and replace worn elements.

The reasons for incomplete filling of the engine cylinders with the working mixture can be a large amount of coke and tar deposits in the pipeline, the use of unsuitable fuel, sticking of the float chamber valve and various kinds of malfunctions in the muffler.

They are eliminated, respectively, by cleaning the inlet pipeline, replacing fuel, correcting jams and repairing the muffler. Loss of engine power also occurs when a lean mixture enters the cylinders, which can occur for several reasons.

If the fuel channels of the power system are contaminated and the jets in the carburetor are clogged, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the contaminated channels and rinse the jets well. This also causes a decrease in engine power.

If there is a clogging of the sump screen, seizing of the fuel pump elements or a breakthrough in the diaphragm, the jam should be eliminated first, then the filter and sump screen should be cleaned, and the damaged diaphragm should be replaced with a new one. If there is a suction of air flows at the junctions of the carburetor elements, it is necessary to tighten the bolts and replace the worn seals. Well, a violation of compression in the cylinders is eliminated by setting and adjusting its level.

Thus, with the timely elimination of the problem of reducing engine power, you can avoid rather unpleasant consequences, the elimination of which will take you quite a lot of time and money. Remember that in order to avoid this kind of breakdowns, it is imperative to carry out a periodic complete diagnostics all systems in your vehicle.

Any self-respecting driver will start to figure out the reasons why injection engine does not develop full power, barely noticing the drop in the prescribed characteristics. Even if you don’t really need all the forces of the machine in this moment, slow acceleration or dullness when driving is very annoying.

In addition, such signs clearly indicate that not everything is in order with the motor. And even for a beginner, it is clear that you cannot skip diagnostics - this can lead to serious consequences that will cost more than fixing a problem in its initial stage. And the attitude towards the car for most drivers is more like a friend than an object. And people take care of the health of loved ones on an instinctive level.

Reasons why an injection engine does not develop full power, can be general - inherent in all types of motors - and individual, which are characteristic exclusively for injectors.

Can happen to anyone

With any organization of the engine, troubles with a decrease in power can be caused by universal factors. Namely:

• In the forefront, as always - bad fuel. If power is lost almost immediately after leaving the gas station, consider that the cause has been found. Additional symptoms may be difficulty starting the engine, soot on the group of candle contacts and a red tint on their skirts. These signs will help determine the cause if gasoline was topped up in a good one and did not show up right away;
• A clogged air filter also prevents the engine from developing adequate power - the mixture is supplied with a lack of air, as a result of which it does not burn out completely;
• Clogged filter, but already fuel. In this case, the mixture enters the engine lean, insufficient to gain speed;
• Worn out or dirty spark plugs. However, even beginners know this reason and check them first of all;
• Problems with the catalyst - its contamination or final wear. The reason is upsetting, since the catalyst costs by no means a penny, and it is not always amenable to cleaning. For this reason, some car owners simply remove it from the exhaust system;
• The next assumption is no less stressful - malfunctions in the fuel system in the form of a fuel pump failure. Depressurization of one of the pipes will be less catastrophic: here both spare parts are cheaper and work is simpler;
• And, finally, the saddest thing is the malfunction of the unit itself. Moreover, in which particular node, not everyone can determine. This may be a violation of the size of the gaps between the valves, a drop in compression, etc. In any case, deep study cannot be avoided.

Items 1 to 4 are easy to find and just as easy to fix. With more complex ones, most people turn to the service.

Injection problems

If the car has been checked for general problems, but the cause of the loss of power has not been identified, we move on to the individualities of the system.

The injectors are automatic. For its correct exposure, the use of readings from many sensors is required. If one of them does not work, the onboard "brains" consider the situation to be emergency and set an underestimated angle, which leads to a drop in power.

You will need to check:

• oxygen concentration sensors;
• coolant temperature sensor;
• phase sensor.

Ringing is required not only by the sensors themselves, but also by the circuits in which they are included - a broken wire or oxidation of the terminals leads to the same consequences as the failure of the device.

• If the sensors are operational, the computer will have to be checked: purely computer failures are quite possible;
• Dirty or damaged injectors. Usually, the omniscient Check reports this. An ohmmeter checks the windings on the injectors and, of course, the circuits leading to / from them;
• The controller may also be faulty - this is also in most cases indicated by the burning Check. The fastest and most reliable way to check is to replace the part with a new working one. Naturally, you also need to check the wires with contacts on it. Sadly, the injector itself may fail.

Ignition system malfunctions.
Incorrect ignition setting.
Remove the cap from the distributor. Unscrew the spark plug of the first cylinder. Having rolled a conical cup out of paper, insert it into the hole of the candle. Turn the crankshaft of the engine with the crank or wrench until the paper cup rebounds. Carefully turn the shaft until the marks (the second mark on the damper part of the pulley and the tide of the timing gear cover) are aligned, which determine the ignition moment during the compression stroke of the first cylinder. Make sure that the position of the slider plate corresponds to the high voltage wire coming from the spark plug of the first cylinder. Set the octane corrector scale to zero. Under the sensor-distributor housing, loosen the bolt of its fastening and, with one hand, supporting the slider against the rotation of the distributor housing, turn the distributor housing with the other hand until the red line of the rotor is aligned with the stator arrow. While holding the housing from turning, tighten the distributor mounting bolt. The final check of the ignition timing should be carried out on a warm engine when the car is moving in direct gear at a speed of 40 km/h on an equal section of the road. At hard pressing A slight knocking sound is heard on the gas pedal. If there is no sound, increase the ignition timing with an octane corrector.

Malfunction accelerator pump.
Violation of the fuel supply in the acceleration mode. In low gears, the car does not get the necessary acceleration. Hence the deterioration of its dynamic qualities.
Remove air filter cover. By a sharp turn of the throttle actuator, ensure fuel injection and observe, with well-directed lighting, its entry into the primary chamber. An even strong jet of gasoline should be injected from the accelerator pump sprayer, reaching the mixing chamber without touching the diffuser walls. An uneven or curved jet indicates a partial clogging of the atomizer channels. Complete absence jet may be due to a malfunction and severe clogging of the fuel supply screw of the sprayer and the discharge valve located in it. If during the check it turns out that they are serviceable, you should pay attention to the diaphragm mechanism of the accelerator pump: is it serviceable, is it dirty? This is done in the usual way - disassembly.

Incomplete throttle opening.
With the help of regulation, achieve full opening of the throttle valves. Fully open the throttle valve of the first chamber. In this case, the throttle valves of the first and second chambers should take a vertical position. Reduce the free slack of the throttle cable to the limit by continuing to adjust the position of the cable sheath stop on the engine cylinder head cover. There is another way: raise the throttle pedal in the passenger compartment by loosening and then tightening the pinch screw of the pedal adjustment levers.
TagAZ owners in winter time at a significant sub-zero temperature (-25 degrees and below), they may encounter the opposite problem - incomplete closing of the throttle valve, due to the formation of ice on its walls. As a result, the engine does not slow down and maintains them within 3000-4000 rpm. In such cases, car owners are advised to lubricate the throttle return spring with silicone. You can buy tagaz c190 from dealers in many cities of Russia. This model of the Taganrog Automobile Plant is an optimal compromise between a city sedan and a reliable SUV.

Low level of gasoline in the float chamber (poor mixture - pops in the carburetor). The float stroke is adjusted.
Pump up gasoline with the manual pumping lever, not forgetting that the fuel pump has dead spots at which it stops pumping gasoline. If there is not enough gasoline, remove the air filter housing and, without dismantling the carburetor from the engine, unscrew the seven screws securing the carburetor cover, taking care that the spring washers do not fall into the intake tract. Carefully lift the cover 15 mm, separate the gasket and remove it forward along the vehicle. Turn the cover to the left in the direction of the car. Check fuel level.

Malfunction of the gas distribution mechanism.
Valve clearances not adjusted (one or more valves do not close well).
Adjust the gaps on a cold engine, when both valves are closed, the rocker arms swing freely. Start adjustment from the first cylinder on the third mark on the crankshaft damper pulley and the pointer on the timing gear cover. The piston of the first cylinder should be at TDC on the compression stroke. Remove the ignition distributor cover and make sure that the slider plate is against the desired cylinder. The feeler gauge should slide effortlessly and not quite freely. If the locknut is tightened, the adjustment may be disturbed. In this case, repeat the operation. The valve clearances of the other cylinders are adjusted according to the firing order of the cylinders.
The level of contamination of the air filter has reached the limit.

The service life of the filter element depends on the intensity and conditions of its operation, as well as on its resistance to air passage. Increasing the resistance of the air filter leads not only to a decrease in engine power, but also to an increase in fuel consumption and an increase in CO and CH emissions.
There is a certain relationship between the mileage of the car and the degree of filter clogging, which must be taken into account, although this task is not an easy one. Current dry filters consist of porous material (cardboard and synthetics). In both cases, the air purification efficiency reaches 99°. Every 10,000 km of run, the air filter housing should be cleaned and the filter element should be blown through with compressed air from the inside, blowing it from the outside as well. If the road is very dusty, and especially when following another vehicle at close range for a long time, the filter must be replaced.

The engine does not develop full power - what could be the reason? Many probably faced such a problem that just a couple of days ago, an outstanding power of several hundred "horses", a "cart on wheels" ceases to be so powerful and becomes like the first invention of Henry Ford: "dim" at the start, slowly accelerating, and even about climbing a steep hill, and in general you should be silent ... Why does this happen, in what true reason this betrayal by your iron horse?

In fact, there can be a lot of reasons - from clogged nozzles in the engine, to changed carburetor settings or "crazy brains" of the injector. We will consider such a simple situation as the incorrect operation of the low pressure pump. If this low pressure pump does not work correctly, then it is worth replacing the filter element. Everything seems to be simple. But let's take a deeper look. Let's imagine the engine as a living organism, as a person, us. Then the pump will be the digestive system, and the filter element, or, simply, petrol filter, will be our teeth with you. If it passes too large food through itself, for example, fuel with harmful impurities and sediment, then the whole body - the engine will not work correctly, fuel jets will clog, both in carburetor and injector "hearts", and this very "heart" is simply will stop beating, or will work intermittently. In the event that our "teeth" do not pass "food" at all, then the body will experience starvation: fuel starvation.

What then to do? The only answer is to replace the filter element. After all, if the low-pressure pump does not work correctly, then you should not immediately run to the store, spend relatively big money on replacing it, your time and nerves. It is much easier to remove the old gasoline filter, and go to the store with it right away, asking to change it to a new one, exactly the same. Rest assured, most problems will be solved with the replacement of the filter element.

What is this filter element, or fuel filter? I think those who are able to open the hood, not only to look there with a surprised look, know that this is such a small transparent barrel with a paper corrugation inside, which, in fact, traps all impurities and unpleasant "bonuses" undesirable for the engine in the form sediment, gas station rust and much more.

But imagine the situation on the road. For example Moscow - St. Petersburg. A good track, the car calmly and confidently enters turns, climbs hills without much zeal, when all of a sudden all its power disappears somewhere. And even if he had only 99 "horses" on his passport, in order to avoid the transport tax, anyway, you will have the feeling that at least 98 "horses were stolen by gypsies." The gas pedal "to the floor", but the car does not go. The nearest city is 70 kilometers, and the car repair shop is the same distance. What to do? There is only one answer - the filter element needs to be replaced. Although it is unlikely that anyone on the road carries a spare fuel filter with them - on the road it most often may not come in handy. But even if you don’t have it with you, then you can drive the remaining kilometers to the auto shop “with a breeze”. It only takes five minutes and a Phillips screwdriver.

First: remove the old fuel filter by unscrewing the two clamps on the gasoline hose leading from the gas tank with a screwdriver. Second: make sure the filter is dirty (you may even see that it is black from impurities). Third: sorry about last time refueled at an unknown gas station, buying into cheap prices. Fourth, most important: blow through the filter. Attention: it is necessary to blow through the filter in the direction opposite to the direction of fuel supply, otherwise the operation will be meaningless. Fifth: install the filter element in place, be sure to tighten the clamps that hold it. pay attention to correct installation filter. The direction of fuel movement on it is usually indicated by an arrow. If the filter element is installed incorrectly, all the dirt, at least somehow detained by it, will get into the engine, and this will already cost a “tidy sum”.

Let me remind you that the reason that the engine does not develop full power can be anything, but still we are optimists and hope for the best, right? As an advice to beginners - motorists, we advise: buy a filter element in the store. At a penny cost, it will save you a lot of money, time and effort. Then there will be no options that require a long, thorough analysis of the breakdown. I just changed the petrol filter and that's it. The problem is solved, the engine began to develop full power - excellent. Let's tell you a secret, most gas stations on the territory of our vast country do not provide the proper quality of fuel to car owners, which, accordingly, negatively affects the cars themselves.

If the problem in this case does not disappear - do not lose the presence of optimism, even on the most deserted highway there are a kind person who will agree to drag you even a few tens of kilometers to the nearest maintenance service. And they will help you there. But also, be careful if the engine does not develop full power, it is unlikely that it is a wheel alignment or the wrong aroma of the windshield washer fluid. The next step is to check and maybe replace the low pressure fuel pump. Its check as a whole is very simple - you only need to remove, check the return spring and the pump rod itself. If everything is in order, then you need to look at the ignition system. What exactly - ask the masters. This article is only about the fuel system, and more specifically, about the low pressure fuel pump (petrol pump) and the filter element (gasoline filter).

The only true thing that can be said for sure is that what happened on the road is corrected on the road. Be smart and keep both hands on the wheel. Good luck!

cool

In this article, we will talk about the main reasons why the engine does not develop full power.

Any car engine loses power over time. However, there are times when an internal combustion engine abruptly loses power by more than 15 percent for no particular reason. In such cases, it is necessary to diagnose the car engine, look for the cause of a sharp loss of power. With a power loss of more than 15 percent, the car will have difficulty accelerating even on a flat, dry road surface. There are many reasons for sudden loss of engine power. In this article, we will talk about the main reasons why the engine does not develop full power.

The table below shows the main causes of loss of engine power in a car.

Cause	Description
early ignition.	An internal combustion engine can lose power dramatically due to early ignition. As a result, the fuel mixture will ignite ahead of time, and the force of the exhaust gases will go against the normal movement of the pistons. Accordingly, the engine crankshaft will slow down, and the engine will not work at full power.
Late ignition.	In the case of a later ignition, the fuel mixture simply will not have time to burn out until the piston passes the dead center. As a result, the energy received from combustion will not be directed in the right direction, and the engine will not use it to its full potential.
Breakdown of the vacuum regulator of an advancing of ignition.	Incorrect throttle opening has the greatest impact on engine speed. If the diaphragm fails, the vacuum regulator will work with great difficulty. This will cause the car's engine to lose power.
Failure of the centrifugal ignition timing controller.	Engine power can also drop sharply due to a malfunction of the centrifugal ignition timing controller. When the engine is picking up speed, the centrifugal governor will begin to increase the ignition timing, while the weights will start to stick, and the angle will not change throughout the entire operation of the engine. This will result in a loss of engine power. Due to the same problem, a sharp waste of fuel will begin, since the ignition will be earlier. All this is due to the rapid stretching of the springs of the weights of the centrifugal ignition timing controller.
Loose valve seat.	If the valves are not seated tightly in their seats, the engine will not operate normally and engine power will drop. For each individual engine model, the gap between the end of the rod and the pusher adjusting washer must have a certain size. In the case of an increase in the size of the gap, the tightness of the combustion chamber will be violated. Because of this, engine power will drop sharply. If the gap size is reduced, then the seat and valve edge will begin to burn. The looseness of the valves is determined by the shots. In the case when the shot goes into the carburetor, this means a loose fit of the intake valve. If the shot goes into the muffler, then this means a loose fit of the exhaust valve.
Worn piston rings.	A sharp decrease in engine power can occur due to worn piston rings. In this situation, the compression in the cylinders will sharply decrease, and this will drastically affect the power of the motor itself. It is quite easy to identify worn piston rings. We need to remove the crankcase ventilation hose from the breather. In the event of smoke coming out, we will understand that the rings are worn out. In this case, the smoke should resemble a pulsating dark jet.

If the ignition of the car engine is adjusted correctly, the ignition timing regulator is working properly, then it is necessary to look for the cause of a sharp decrease in engine power elsewhere.

If the ignition of the car engine is adjusted correctly, the ignition timing regulator is working properly, then it is necessary to look for the cause of a sharp decrease in engine power elsewhere. Experts recommend paying attention to the filling of the cylinder with the working mixture. The cause of this problem may be a stuck throttle. That is why motorists recommend paying attention to the throttle actuator more often. Next, you need to check the air filter and, in which case, replace it with a new one. The main reasons for the lack of the working mixture in the cylinders are the following:

– Large deposits of tar and coke in the inlet pipeline;

- Too much carbon deposits in the engine cylinders;

- Jamming of the needle valve in the float chamber;

– Use of gasoline with an octane rating that is not suitable for this model engine.

Another reason for a sharp decrease in car engine power is the flow of a lean working mixture into the engine cylinders. If a lean working mixture enters the cylinders, then the reasons may be as follows:

1. Air suction. In places where the elements of the injector and carburetor are connected, air leakage may occur if the gaskets are damaged or due to loosening of the fasteners. The detection of such gaps is performed by applying soap suds. Air leakage can be removed by tightening the bolts or by replacing the gaskets.
2. Freezing liquid. The cause of a poor working mixture in the cylinders may be the freezing of the fluid in the power system. From this, the channels and jets in the carburetor become dirty. In this situation, the malfunction can be eliminated by purging jets, channels and pipelines.
3. Clogged air hole in the fuel pump. If the air hole in the fuel pump is stuck, a lean mixture will form in the engine cylinders. This problem can be corrected by replacing constituent parts fuel pump and air damper cleaning.
4. Diaphragm rupture. When the diaphragm breaks and the valves stick, a lean working mixture occurs in the fuel pump. This problem can be fixed.