When you press the gas pedal, the car jerks. When you hit the gas hard, the engine jerks.

07.07.2009, 13:51

In general, it is not clear what happened to my Matiz.: 009:
All was good. Car is 4 years old with 30500 miles.
I went to the t / o, they did an engine check, they said everything was ok.
But the car pulls .. especially when you press the gas pedal, or when it just stands at a traffic light. What could be the reason?
Maybe the left one got gas?
I refueled at Phaeton, I always fill in 92 gasoline.
Maybe experts will tell you what might be. case?
===
Thank you!

07.07.2009, 13:54

Candles can be replaced, high-voltage wires can be cleaned, injection can be cleaned, etc. But you can start with candles.

07.07.2009, 13:55

Gasoline, spark plugs, air filter. Not an automatic?

07.07.2009, 14:02

To the cold? To hot? Or does it matter?

07.07.2009, 14:11

I had this (((the reason was - high-voltage wires ...

And it was the same thing, but I was to blame, I don’t remember exactly what it’s called, the hose is from the engine, it takes air or, on the contrary, pushes it. Such a small one.

There were many versions of the breakdown, candles, the injector was cleaned, the fuel filter was changed.

07.07.2009, 14:14

07.07.2009, 14:17

Leakage through the wires is checked quite simply. But, in any case, you need to SEE the car

How is it checked?

07.07.2009, 14:30

How is it checked?
In the dark, open the hood and start the car. If lightning runs along the wires, then there is a leak.

Threat Start by pouring a full tank of some quality gasoline. If that doesn't work, start with candles. Then check the BB wires and further on the electrical part.

07.07.2009, 14:34

In the dark, open the hood and start the car..
This is HALF of the correct answer. Here is the second one: You take any sprinkler with water and pour a little on the wires and: If lightning runs along the wires, then there is a leak.

07.07.2009, 14:38

Where do you get darkness? in broad daylight ... my pieces of iron fell out of them there and it was so noticeable.

07.07.2009, 14:39

damn after Orgasmo - at least close the topics, there's nothing to write :))
I also wanted to offer, exactly in the same order: normal benz, then candles, then BB-wires. and no "further" is needed, most likely.

Threat and even about checking BB-wires in the dark, too, read many times. but I myself had a case when the wires were not very good (later they were replaced, and it became much better), and in the dark no lightning was observed.

07.07.2009, 14:40

and even read about checking BB wires in the dark many times. but I myself had a case when the wires were not very good (later they were replaced, and it became much better), and in the dark no lightning was observed.
No, well, it’s clear that they sparkle when it’s already quite the end ...
You can simply replace them with obviously good ones, from a well-known brand. It will not be worse.

07.07.2009, 14:41

Offer to lick with your tongue :))
You need to get married, master ... (c)

07.07.2009, 14:42

It will not be worse.
It may not get better either. And there will be no money. Diagnosing a malfunction by replacing EVERYTHING is a dead end. Especially if it's for the client....

07.07.2009, 14:45

I had the same thing and it turned out to be the cause of the fuel pump, although at first they thought the fuel filter, but alas ..... but now it’s tearing up)))

07.07.2009, 14:46

It may not get better either. And there will be no money. Diagnosing a malfunction by replacing EVERYTHING is a dead end. Especially if it's for the client....

Well, about EVERYTHING, it's like you got excited. BB-wire is basically a consumable.
PS Well, if it's not magnecors of course :)

07.07.2009, 15:01

BB-wire is basically a consumable.
You got excited when you decided to diagnose this way .... You see, it’s very easy to send the girl, the owner of MATIZ (Notice, not Merca, but Matiz) to the mower for wires, and then understand that it was necessary to change the filter for only 200 rubles ... .

07.07.2009, 15:09

You got excited when you decided to diagnose this way .... You see, it’s very easy to send the girl, the owner of MATIZ (Notice, not Merca, but Matiz) to the mower for wires, and then understand that it was necessary to change the filter for only 200 rubles ... .
Everyone has their own approach to diagnosis. Therefore, people choose car services to their liking :) It's simple.
How come? :) I suggested looking at the wires in the dark. And after gasoline and replacing candles. And then change them. I also noticed that it cannot be worse from changing the wires to obviously good ones, and you obviously exclude one of the reasons. And you save yourself from hemorrhoids associated with wires for another couple of years.
PS And you can spend $ 200 on wires and once and for all forget about all the troubles associated with them :)

07.07.2009, 15:13

Thanks everyone for the replies.
I made a list of what needs to be checked, on Saturday I signed up for t / o.
Service asked why they didn't do anything last time, they said
what on the computer engine diagnostics everything was fine and did not see the problem.
PS. Transmission is manual, not automatic.

07.07.2009, 17:17

a can of wire dryer will suffice
tested over 5.5 years of operation
if you visit VO or Citizenship, I will show you how to do it
write in a personal, I'll give you a phone
well, change the candles more often - I personally change the Matiz 1 time in 10 thousand. km and I carry a spare with me
the contact group was changed only once in 75,000 km. - just at 30 thousand somewhere, it would be necessary more often
I’ll definitely change it at 80 thousand - I have them in the list of spare parts

07.07.2009, 17:25

The engine is here and nothing
Dealers do not know this problem for some reason or "do not want to know" and are bred for money
I got so caught on a six-month-old car with the same problems - I handed it in for warranty repairs and eventually paid the bill .. although it was a long time ago and the car was still new for everyone then, maybe that has already changed
Then, in another place, they already explained to me what was the matter and they gave me VD-hu
And so Matiz is just afraid of water - maybe it won’t start after washing ... it was like that

07.07.2009, 18:06

And so Matiz is just afraid of water - maybe it won’t start after washing ... it was like that



07.07.2009, 18:29

07.07.2009, 19:40

It's a pity it's not a Zhiguli - I would have pointed my finger at the gas pump.
Gee! I pointed at the wires apiece with my finger, so they almost ate me, and you offer a pump for 3-6 tons (how much does it cost there on a motiz?) to change? :)

07.07.2009, 19:47

Indeed, Matiz with a 0.8 engine had an ignition system with a distributor, which was terribly afraid of dampness. In any little bit of rain, it could start to double, twitch and stall.
But when it dried out, these symptoms disappeared.
Liter Matiz with an ignition module did not suffer from such a disaster.

He is afraid now, an infection
we already rearranged it for the battery, anyway, a couple of times a year in heavy rain, water gets to it: wife:
wire dryer enough

07.07.2009, 19:48

Gee! I pointed at the wires apiece with my finger, so they almost ate me, and you offer a pump for 3-6 tons (how much does it cost there on a motiz?) to change? :) The person meant the standard glitch of domed gasoline cars in the heat. Well, why distort? :) No one ate anyone... I just always try to do not only the right thing, but sometimes the sensible way. And it's great to combine.

07.07.2009, 19:49

we have already rearranged it for the battery,

07.07.2009, 19:57

WHOM?! TRAMBLER?! :010: maybe that's why it's troit?!

What is it?
water from the holes for draining water used to pour right onto the ignition coil - in any rain you could get up and not start anymore
as rearranged, it became much better ... almost ideal
I have a 2003 Matiz, then they say this problem was fixed

07.07.2009, 20:44

WHOM?! TRAMBLER?! :010: maybe that's why it's troit?!

Yes, not the distributor itself, but they rearranged the reel. Don't be silly, you know what I'm talking about :)
On Matiz, many do this, as they once did on carb chisels.

And it doesn’t troit, but doubles then - Matiz initially has three pots.

08.07.2009, 00:00

Author, I have the same garbage now. And in the same way, service diagnostics showed nothing, of course. The candles were changed, one BB wire (punched) was changed, the filters were all changed. Problem still exists. I'm afraid to even think about the fuel pump - it costs 6 tyrov. But I don’t twitch at the start - be healthy. But while driving, when you press the gas pedal, it twitches. Moreover, the lower the gear, the more it pulls. :(On the fifth it doesn’t pull, for example, at all, but on the second one you can only go with the clutch half-squeezed, otherwise I’ll jump around the yards like a frog. :(

I heard a version that it could be a throttle sensor, but its computer diagnostics should have shown it.

I forgot to add: I have Matiz. :)

08.07.2009, 00:44

08.07.2009, 00:58

In my rain, it twitches and stalls in neutral. It’s not always true, but for about five minutes, you look, I’ve already arrived at work :). And for long distances it dries out in ten minutes :)

The world has gone crazy:010:________
In the topic about Matiz, four pages are not a flood, and even topless hostesses did not ask: 009: Why did spring pass or what? Not far from winter hibernation? :))

08.07.2009, 00:59

In general, jerking under load is a lack of fuel. I need to check the pressure...

08.07.2009, 08:21

why then the problem is eliminated by a wire dryer to the ignition coil and contacts?
Because according to the stories on the network, it is IMPOSSIBLE to accurately diagnose the car.

08.07.2009, 09:03

Indeed, Matiz with a 0.8 engine had an ignition system with a distributor, which was terribly afraid of dampness. In any little bit of rain, it could start to double, twitch and stall.
But when it dried out, these symptoms disappeared.
Liter Matiz with an ignition module did not suffer from such a disaster.
I have a 2005 liter. 4 years GENERALLY there were no problems.
===
And I was very surprised when I called t/o yesterday and started on the list
read out what I was advised here.
Ask why they didn't check.:016:
They asked me to speak more slowly, like they were taking notes.

And it turns out that they only checked the engine and calmed down.
===
But I don’t twitch at the start - be healthy. But while driving, when you press the gas pedal, it twitches. Moreover, the lower the gear, the more it pulls. On the fifth, it doesn’t pull, for example, at all, but on the second one you can only go with the clutch half-squeezed, otherwise I’m jumping around the yards like a frog.

I have too: the lower the gear, the more it pulls.
===
Do not fill in new gasoline yet, because before that I filled in a full tank on Phaeton,

08.07.2009, 09:11

Do not fill in new gasoline yet, because before that I filled in a full tank on Phaeton,
and it doesn't run out of gas quickly.

Remember, someone asked why I was against filling before the cutoff? That was just one of the reasons I listed

08.07.2009, 09:14

why then the problem is eliminated by a wire dryer to the ignition coil and contacts?
Don't know. When I had winter light show on the wires, capacity just sausage at idle. It usually goes away with revs.

08.07.2009, 09:19

If it twitches under load, there is not enough fuel, so look at the pump performance and the pressure created, the fuel filter - has it been changed for a long time, the cleanliness of the injectors.

08.07.2009, 10:42

I do not have Matiz, ten. In the spring there was a similar problem, the car twitched when you pressed the gas pedal. They made a diagnosis of the engine, the boy said - the reason is in the ignition, and advised to act as everyone here says, change
petrol
candles
ignition coil
wires,
The fuel filter was also said to be the cause of the twitching.
We had enough candles to fix the problem.

08.07.2009, 11:37

And it doesn’t troit, but doubles then - Matiz initially has three pots.
When troit is a normal mode of operation for him :)
yeah, also neighing about troit))

08.07.2009, 11:38

In the topic about Matiz, four pages are not a flood, and even topless hostesses did not ask: 009: Why did spring pass or what? Not far from winter hibernation? :))
Anh .... well, you yourself know everything ..... you could already make a fuss about topless))))

08.07.2009, 11:40

They asked me to speak more slowly, like they were taking notes.
I thought that experts (DEALERS Matiz),
when explaining the reason, they will immediately understand what the matter is.

Do not communicate with dealers ..... there are sane services ....

Kuzkina grandmother

08.07.2009, 11:52

I have an eight. After replacing the fuel filter does not pull. It was the same - on the 2nd, on the 3rd, after overclocking - it's normal.

08.07.2009, 13:14

Because according to the stories on the network, it is IMPOSSIBLE to accurately diagnose the car.

Of course, on the one hand, it is true, but on the other hand, this particular machine has some weak points ...
the ignition system belongs to them

Do not communicate with dealers ..... there are sane services ....

PPKS
but on the other hand, Matiz now gives a 5-year warranty or 100 thousand mileage ... it still turns out a warranty
before the current 1 year was given

I remembered here how the official servicemen were starving at my Matiz - they did engine diagnostics, flushed the engine, changed the candles (you should have seen these candles - not new and all different) and cut off the signaling
however, I hope that they still didn’t do the first 2 points and it just dried out with them and started up
On that, having quarreled with this service, I said goodbye forever, and my director also called the director of that salon ...

I have an eight. After replacing the fuel filter does not pull. It was the same - on the 2nd, on the 3rd, after overclocking - it's normal.

Fuel filter on Matiz 1 time in 10 thousand for maintenance change

It's time for me to Alik already: fifa:

08.07.2009, 19:54

08.07.2009, 20:18

I fill up with 95 gasoline, out of 100 times 99 at the same gas station. I changed the fuel filter and spark plugs a month ago, as well as the air filter and checked the BB wires with the replacement of one. It still twitches. I should also go to Alik :) but money-mani is not in my pocket. :(

My car seems to be older than everyone else and does not pull anything ...
Maybe the fuel pump: 016:

I have a husband right now with a list on Sedov

Many drivers wonder why the car twitches when you press or release the gas pedal. Moreover, this problem manifests itself both on carburetors and on injectors. And not every car service can find the cause. This is due to a large number of problems that can cause such behavior of the car. Often, a motorist, having traveled to specialists, friends, and also visiting several shamans, simply gets used to the idea that his car has such a feature. But, in fact, there is no such problem that cannot be eliminated (the only fatal problem of cricket in the "nine"), if you carefully check everything possible reasons, you can find the error.


TPS


Why does the car jerk when pressing or releasing the pedal? On injectors, most often the culprit is an unadjusted throttle position sensor. In this case, the ECU (electronic control unit) reacts to changes with a delay, and gives incorrect commands. That's why, and there is an incomprehensible twitching when the gas is increased or decreased. The cause is eliminated by adjusting the sensor. After the adjustment, you can forget about the problem for a long time.

To work, you will need a tester, with its help they call the sensor, and bring this entire system to the proper readings.



Poor quality fuel


Sometimes, these symptoms appear shortly after refueling. Here you can be congratulated, you have filled in the fuel, which contains a suspension of solid particles. Twitching appeared due to clogged filters, and possibly injectors. To fix, you will have to clean the entire fuel system. It will take a lot of time, but there is simply no other option here. Remember the gas station where you refueled and don't go there again.

In the very difficult case your injectors are clogged. You can clean them yourself, without even removing them from the engine, but it will be much more efficient to remove them and clean them on a special stand. In the very best case, low-quality fuel will contain water, and will gradually be used up.




A malfunction of the electronic control unit often leads to jerking of the car. The reason is incorrect reading of indications, as well as incorrect commands. In this case, fuel injection is delayed. The problem can manifest itself not only when working with gas, but also in other modes. During computer diagnostics, an "ECU error" will be issued.

The problem is treated by flashing the equipment. In severe cases, the entire unit may need to be replaced. If you do not fix the problem, then problems with increased fuel consumption and other troubles will soon be added to the twitching.

Related articles:



Carburetor


On carburetor engines, the cause may be wedging of the throttle valve, as well as the gas cable. This results in improper vehicle power management. Usually it is enough to treat the throttle with special substances and develop it. You can change the throttle cable at the same time. Perhaps it is rusted and does not allow the throttle to open / close in a timely manner. Perhaps this is one of the simplest reasons for jerking the car when working with gas.

Ignition. Ignition problems can also cause poor vehicle behavior. Most often, this happens in conjunction with a general drop in engine power. If twitching occurs when driving, be sure to check the correct operation of this system. It is worth starting the test with candles, if they give out a bad spark, then it makes sense to continue the test.

During the operation of various vehicles, drivers often encounter the fact that the engine starts to twitch and jerks when hard pressing on the gas pedal. Such and on Idling if you hit the gas hard. At the same time, in normal mode (pressing the accelerator is smooth), noticeable jerks are often not observed.

In this article, we will talk about why such jerks occur and the car twitches during acceleration, which symptoms clearly indicate that the engine has started to twitch, and how to identify and fix the problem.

The car twitches when you sharply press the gas: why is this happening


First of all, it should be understood that jerking and jerking when pressing the gas is most often associated with the quality of the fuel-air mixture. The mixture may be lean or enriched.

A fairly common situation during the operation of the vehicle is when dips occur when the gas pedal is pressed, the engine stalls when re-gassing, power unit does not gain momentum, chokes, etc.



A well-maintained car is the key to driving safety on the road. However, unexpected interruptions during movement can be especially troublesome. Such problems include the situation when the car twitches during acceleration, or there are interruptions when driving at low speeds.

The best way to avoid surprises is prevention and proper diagnosis. With their help, you can do without expensive repairs.

It is difficult to diagnose with an unevenly running car that is running at idle. The correct solution would be to detect interruptions during its movement. For this, a straight section of the road without heavy traffic is selected.

While driving, turn on the gears one by one. At each included stage, we sharply squeeze the accelerator pedal. The power plant must be sensitive to all the efforts of the driver. In those cases when the car twitches when you press the gas pedal or does it without any effort, then the vehicle needs a more thorough inspection of individual components. It all depends on the specific behavior of the car.

Jerky motion during acceleration

The problems of uneven movement during a high-speed maneuver most often lie in the unstable flow of fuel into the float chamber. Gasoline is produced faster than it enters it. The supply of fluid to the fuel pump is intermittent.


You need to solve the problem by opening the fuel pump cover. We carry out a visual inspection of the hole with the valve. The seal is often in the wrong place. This lack of sealing leads to a complication of the supply of gasoline to the system, because of this, the car twitches while driving. The necessary operation is to replace the valve and resume hermetic operation. If there is a sealant at hand, then you can do it yourself.

Unstable movement at low speed

The troubles that arise while driving at low speed are the result of incorrect operation of the nozzles. The culprit is also often an unfixed wire bundle that can fray if it rubs against the fuel lines while driving.


Bare wires are closed on the tubes. In this case, the nozzles are turned off, and the stability of the injection suffers. If the wires are the culprits for the fact that the car twitches when driving at low speeds, then it is better to change the harness. After replacement, you need to fix them on the case to avoid a recurrence of the problem.

Instability associated with pressing the accelerator

At a time when the driver "presses the gas", the car pulls through, this may be due to the inefficient operation of the vacuum ignition angle regulator. This element is located in the distributor.

Since gasoline burns at the same speed, the driver tends to increase the engine speed and presses the pedal, the engine needs to ignite the air-fuel mixture faster. The work of the vacuum regulator begins just with an increase in speed above 1500-2000 rpm. The opening throttle valve at the same time pulls the bearing due to the resulting vacuum, which increases the ignition timing.


To diagnose the operation of the vacuum regulator, it is enough to remove the hose and tightly cover it with your hand. You will hear how the pull-in effect works. When air enters, no vacuum is formed, the tightness is broken, and when starting off, the car twitches.

The next culprit for why the car twitches on the go is the sprayer. accelerator pump. You can see the performance of the element after removing the diffusers. Then you need to press the lever and look at their work. A failure means that one of the instability problems has been detected.

To repair the mechanism, you will need to dismantle it and remove the ball, holding the underside with pliers carefully so as not to deform the case. Using a compressor, we blow through the channels and, having assembled it, install it without gaps. The resulting gaps will lead to unwanted vacuum. Correct operation and cleanliness of blowing is evaluated by a long straight jet.

A rare case with diaphragm

A fault with the accelerator pump diaphragm is rarely detected. Only the spring remains in the structure, and its shelter disappears. You have to make a homemade button from improvised means. When such a problem is identified at the station, auto mechanics suggest completely changing the carburetor so as not to mess with the little things.

Culprit-filters

When the car twitches when driving at low speeds or high speeds, then you need to remember how long ago they changed fuel filters. In diesel power plants, as a rule, they put a couple: coarse and fine cleaning. The main trouble delivers the second.


Fuel filters

To determine the condition of the coarse filter, you can fold the fuel line hose and blow through the mesh. At the same time, a cap must be untwisted on the neck of the gas tank. After a couple of days, we repeat the procedure. If the result is negative, it is necessary to take care of the cleanliness of the fine filter. Almost all foreign cars use disposable fine fuel filters. To add efficiency after replacing it, the procedure for adding a small amount of fuel to the filter will help.

A clogged fine filter leads to unstable operation of the motor, but this car does not twitch. The motor stalls or "chokes" more often.

Spark test

Some cars start to jerk when going downhill or on some flat areas if there is a problem with the contactless ignition system. A faulty switch located inside the structure can cause such consequences. Repair with this element is not carried out. You will have to completely replace the node.

Control unit control

In some situations, car owners are advised to check the carburetor control unit. characteristic feature shocks are random occurrences or weak predictability. You can send the car to the diagnostic stand at the nearest car service. There you can detect instability at idle, the appearance of shocks when you press the accelerator pedal and the formation of "floating" revolutions.


Carburetor control unit

Often for carburetor cars, the cause is identified in the carburetor control unit. It is almost impossible to independently diagnose this node "by ear" or by the consequences of the operation of the motor.

Conclusion

The resulting instability or intermittent operation of the car can in many cases be diagnosed and “cured” on its own. It will cost significantly less than at the station. If there is not enough experience, then you can turn to friends or check several "suspicious" nodes. It is not worth delaying the solution of the problem, since such an unstable operation of the car negatively affects the rest of the nodes and overall safety while driving.

Sooner or later, every motorist has to deal with the following problems:

  • The appearance of malfunctions in the operation of valves;
  • Sharp jerks of the car (there is a feeling that it is twitching by itself);
  • The lack of an instant response of the motor to pressing the gas pedal.

Moreover, when you press the gas pedal, the car starts to twitch not only when idling, but also during acceleration and at full speed of the vehicle. To understand how this happens, what is the reason and what needs to be done to correct the situation, it is necessary to move from the symptoms to the causes of the breakdown.

The main reason for the "jerking" of the car when you press the gas pedal

The main cause is most often associated with an oxygen-enriched / depleted fuel mixture. It is because of the lack of air that the crankshaft continues to rotate despite the fact that the gas pedal has long been released. In addition, when the pedal is pressed hard, the motor starts to twitch and rotate in place.

The root cause of the problem is the preparation of the wrong mixture. In turn, the mixture can be supplied in different ratios due to a malfunction of other devices and components of both the engine and the fuel system.

Jerking of the car due to a malfunction of the TPS

TPS is a special sensor that regulates the position of the throttle. It is quite simple to understand that the malfunction is connected with it - it starts to “jump” even when the accelerator is pressed smoothly. The process of the emergence of jerks is as follows:

  • throttle valve for a long time remains open;
  • After that, when accelerating faulty sensor provisions throttle valves belatedly transmits a signal to the on-board computer of the machine;
  • As a result, the machine cannot quickly switch from idle to full speed in load mode, after which fuel is supplied in large quantities and abruptly to the combustion chamber;
  • The result is a sharp decrease in pressure in the design of the fuel rail. The motor will run jerky at first, and then completely stall.

This type of malfunction can often be found in vehicles with injection engine. Both domestic cars (Lada Priora, Lada Vesta Cross, Lada Granta) and foreign car models (for example, the same Ford Focus) are not insured from this. The solution in this case is one - to go to a car service, where you will change the faulty sensor.

Advice: do not try to solve the problem yourself by repairing a faulty TPS. As a rule, after repair, a previously faulty mechanism can last no more than 1-2 months.

Jerking of the car due to a malfunction of the DMRV


The second sensor that affects the air supply to the system is a device for adjusting the mass flow of oxygen in the system. It works in the injection type of engines and is responsible for the air supply during the formation of the fuel mixture. If this component is defective, then your car will also twitch, without even having time to accelerate. The solution is similar with the first sensor - dismantling and complete replacement of the DMRV.

Jerking the car - a malfunction in the carburetor chamber and pump


In the event that the engine starts to jerk in carburetor machines even with a slight pressure on the gas pedal, the focus should be on the carburetor chamber. The problem is often associated with clogging of the outlets, which are located in the first of the carburetor chambers.

The fuel, having entered the motor, takes with it part of the burning and metal chips, as a result of which the mixture undergoes changes, and the motor is unstable. You can solve this problem yourself - just remove the carburetor and blow out all its pipes and holes with compressed air.

A classic example is the following situation: when replacing the front hub bearing on a VAZ-2109, the pump was damaged. As a result of the failure of the accelerator pump of the carburetor, the mixture is supplied to the engine in an incomplete volume. The result is the appearance of jerks during even a smooth attempt to start. In most cases, it is not advisable to repair pumps, which is why they are simply changed in a car service.

Vehicle jerking during acceleration

Such a problem can manifest itself with a smooth set of revolutions, which is accompanied by a sharp short twitching of the vehicle. In this case, the reason is related to the lack of a constant supply of the fuel mixture to the float chamber of the motor. That is, the fuel is burned in the chamber much faster than the fuel pump overtakes a new stream. As a rule, a breakdown can be found precisely in the design of the fuel pump.

The solution to a fuel pump malfunction takes place in 3 stages:

  • Remove the top cover of the pump and carefully inspect the surface of the hole where the valve structure should be located;
  • If the sealing ring is worn or missing, fix a new one;
  • If during the diagnostics a depressurization of the chamber is detected or the problem is related to interruptions in fuel injection, then the final stage will be associated with the complete replacement of the inoperative valve and the further restoration of the tight state in the system.

Advice: when repairing, do not try to repair holes in the old cylinder and install it in place. This may later lead to overhaul the entire engine structure.

The appearance of jerks in the car when you sharply press the gas

If the cause is not related to the fuel pump, then these symptoms may indicate the so-called “triple” of the motor. In a car, a situation arises in which only one of the 4 cylinders can work correctly. As a result of “triple” the motor simply cannot respond in time to pressing the gas pedal, after which similar problems arise. You can deal with the breakdown in the following ways:

  • If the oxygen supply sensor does not work properly, the system is diagnosed using a multimeter. In the event of a malfunction, it is simply replaced.
  • When the valve timing is shifted in the motor, it is necessary with the help of car service specialists to adjust them according to the appropriate instructions.
  • The detection of an incorrect glow number of candles is solved by installing a new kit with the correct number.
  • The problem of nozzle clogging can only be solved in a car service. To do this, they are installed on a special stand that simulates the operation of the motor, and washed with a special solvent.
  • Also, a problem may arise when the emulsion tube and well located in the design of the second chamber of the carburetor motor are clogged. The only solution here is flushing the carburetor and tube with kerosene.

Engine jerks due to problems with the ignition system

If, when the car accelerates, you observe sharp dips in power, then the reason lies in the malfunction of the elements of the ignition system. Distributed by this problem on any type of engine. The only correct solution is to check the ignition with the engine off. Conducted by the following features:

  • The tightness of the fastening of the pads with wires is checked;
  • No chips and good condition of the coil;
  • The serviceability of the wiring connecting the ignition system to the engine.

After checking all the elements, you need to start the car and just listen to how the engine began to work. If you find the appearance of characteristic clicks, then there are small breakdowns in the system with high voltage. In this case, you will have to buy all the elements of the ignition system - a coil, a block and a set of high-voltage wires.

Advice: do not attempt to change the wiring on the machine yourself. Only highly qualified specialists can correctly connect relays and fuses using instructions and diagrams, after which the ignition system will not burn out. You can also check the wheels at the same time by comparing the indicators in the tire pressure table of the car.

In the case of smooth engine operation, the problem may lie in the candles. And ate to speak more precisely - in the absence or rare appearance of a spark. The presence of defects in the sparking system can be easily detected if the car engine starts to jerk when descending from hills and even on flat sections of the road.


For example, a problem with a set of candles is typical for Nissan vehicles. This is due to the equipment of their CA-18 model engine with a special design of a non-contact distributor. The distributor housing contains a switch, in the event of a malfunction of which the spark signal is not sent to on-board computer, and there is such a specific movement of the machine. You can fix the jerks of the motor only with a complete replacement of the components of the distributor.

If the set of candles is also in excellent condition, the only remaining reason can only be malfunctions in the operation of the carburetor-type engine control unit. In this case, jerks do not occur constantly, but randomly and only during a long drive of the car.

It is possible to detect malfunctions in the control unit only after diagnostics in a car service on a special stand. Also, with the help of a lift, you will be able to see that the car idling occasionally twitches. As a result, the control unit (EFI) should be changed along with breakdowns found in other components of the vehicle.


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