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What can be painted with acrylic paints. Acrylic painting

If you want to try something new in painting, pay attention to the acrylic painting technique. Canvases created with plastic-based paints have an interesting three-dimensional structure. Painting with acrylics is no more difficult than painting with watercolors. At the same time, the finished painting does not need to be treated with fixing compounds - the paints have high resistance, do not fade and are not afraid of water.

What is acrylic paint

Acrylic paints appeared in mass production relatively recently - only 50 years ago. Pigmented acrylic resin quickly gained universal popularity - primarily due to its versatility and durability. It is used not only by painters on canvas, but also by interior artists who create paintings on the walls, builders and even manicurists.

Acrylic paints are different. So, for decorating walls or ceilings, it is better to choose a special acrylic paint of a dense consistency. Volumetric images in the interior look colorful, realistic and original. Less concentrated paints, usually sold in tubes, are suitable for creating paintings on canvas. The process of drawing for beginners is fascinating, it allows you to fully reveal your artistic talent.

How to prepare the basis for the future picture

Before choosing acrylic paint, take care of preparing the base. You can draw on wooden boards or plywood. You can use a stretcher or regular canvas. The easiest way to paint is with acrylic on paper, so a beginner should first master this canvas.

Choose paper with a thick, rough surface. In order for you to paint correctly with acrylic, the base must be strong. If you choose textured paper, stick a wood backing on it.

Remove the formed air bubbles with the help of a book - the canvas for painting is ready. Acrylic canvas can be further sanded as the material adheres best to a smooth surface. Beginning painters often wonder if acrylic should be primed on canvas.

If you are working on boards, you will need an acrylic primer, which is available in art stores. It is a special emulsion with titanium dioxide, which gives whiteness. The primer is applied to the prepared board in several layers and dried during the day.

How to learn to paint with acrylic from scratch

First of all, make sure the paint is not dry. When applying the first strokes, be sure to moisten the acrylic palette with water - for this you need a spray bottle. No need to pour a lot of acrylic paint at one time. Use absorbent paper, you can put it under the palette.

Watch the transparency of the paint: what more water add, the more transparent the strokes will be. First paint with large brushes, start with large areas. Then smoothly move on to the main details. The technique of painting with acrylic on paper or a wooden board requires the utmost care and precision. From time to time, look at the drawing in the mirror - this will help you understand if its proportions are correct.

Many beginners find it difficult to mix acrylics with each other. You can use a thinner - it increases the "open" time of the paints, making them easier to compose. It is necessary to distribute the material only with the edge of the brush, and to obtain clear contours of the sketch, you can use ordinary adhesive tape, which is sold at any hardware store.

Try lightening and darkening the shades by adding white or black tones to them. To clean the palette of acrylic paints, use any plastic-dissolving agent - a common household solvent will do.

Acrylic painting on paper or wood creative process which is a lot of fun. To make it even more enjoyable, follow these guidelines:

The colors darken significantly when dry. Keep this in mind when choosing shades for the future canvas. Choose non-toxic materials to work with, even if they cost more. Wear an apron while you work so you don't stain your clothes.

In addition to professional brushes with long handles, paints and canvas base, stock up on decoupage glue, as well as a convenient spray bottle filled with water.

It is better to use a plastic palette - it is practical and easy to clean. Don't forget about clean water in which you will rinse the brushes.

Having mastered the technique of painting with acrylic, you can create real masterpieces. A little patience, diligence and the right materials for work are the key to impressive results.

What is acrylic paint

How to prepare the basis for the future picture

Choose paper with a thick, rough surface. In order for you to paint correctly with acrylic, the base must be strong. If you choose textured paper, stick a wood backing on it.

How to learn to paint with acrylic from scratch

Watch the transparency of the paint: the more water you add, the more transparent the strokes will be. First paint with large brushes, start with large areas. Then smoothly move on to the main details. The technique of painting with acrylic on paper or a wooden board requires the utmost care and precision. From time to time, look at the drawing in the mirror - this will help you understand if its proportions are correct.

Try lightening and darkening the shades by adding white or black tones to them. To clean the palette of acrylic paints, use any plastic-dissolving agent - a common household solvent will do.

Painting with acrylic on paper or wood is a creative process that is a lot of fun. To make it even more enjoyable, follow these guidelines:

In addition to professional brushes with long handles, paints and canvas base, stock up on decoupage glue, as well as a convenient spray bottle filled with water.

It is better to use a plastic palette - it is practical and easy to clean. Do not forget about clean water in which you will rinse the brushes.

Having mastered the technique of painting with acrylic, you can create real masterpieces. A little patience, diligence and the right materials for work are the key to impressive results.

You will need

acrylic paints, brushes, masking tape, water, acrylic thinner, plywood, decoupage glue, sandpaper

Instruction

First, prepare the surface on which you will be. It can be both paper and glass, plastic and other materials. For the first time, you can try painting on plywood, stretcher or canvas. On this basis, acrylic can easily catch on. If desired, a layer of paper (textured or for origami) can be glued onto the tree. If you decide to do so, then use special glue. Cover it with a wooden surface, put paper on top. Using a book, cardboard or other object, try to remove air bubbles from under the paper. Wait for the glue to dry. Then apply another 10 layers of glue alternately.

The resulting base must be sanded. To do this, moisten it with water and use sandpaper (grit 120 grit). Try to make the surface as smooth as possible.

When the canvas is ready, check the status. Dried acrylic is very difficult to work with. For an initial acquaintance with such paints, a set of 6 colors will suffice. They are very easy to mix and give a variety of shades. Prepare a spray bottle. From time to time it is necessary to moisten the palette so that it does not dry out. Do not try to immediately squeeze out the paint designed for the entire drawing. This will also help to avoid drying out of the paint. Also, to maintain moderate humidity, you can now buy a wet palette. Attached to it is absorbent paper, which is moistened with water and placed at the bottom of the palette, as well as parchment paper (placed on top of the palette).

Try adjusting the transparency of paints with water. The more water you add to the paint, the more transparent the color will be. However, it must be remembered that when adding more than 20% of water, the paint may lose its ability to be fixed on the surface. To get the effect soft glow» apply one translucent layer on top of another (after the previous layer has dried). If the acrylic is not too thin, a synthetic nylon brush will do. Remember: a thin transparent layer of acrylic dries in 1-2 minutes.

To paint with undiluted acrylic paints, you will need a hard brush (rectangular and wide). In the process of painting, it is best to first draw large details with a wide brush, and then move on to small ones and use a kolinsky brush. Do not linger in the same area, the movements should be fast. If undiluted acrylic is applied in a thin layer, it will dry in 2-3 minutes. A thick layer of acrylic can dry up to 20 minutes.

Blot your brush from time to time. Do not rush to use the brush, washing off the paint with water. Place the brush on a clean, dry cloth to avoid staining the canvas.

Acrylic paints can be thinned with more than just water. To create interesting glazing or marbling effects, you need to add glaze or texture paste. Such a paste, having created the desired effect, will slightly muffle the color. But this can be easily fixed by applying varnish to the dried paint (the picture will shine spectacularly).

In addition, these paints can be mixed with each other. For this procedure, you will need an acrylic-based thinner. This substance allows acrylic paints to stay in their "state of life" longer and blend more easily. The thinner can be applied either by brush or directly onto the canvas. Try to apply the paint with the edge of the brush to distribute it evenly. Otherwise, a hard brush will scratch the paint. For proper mixing of acrylic paints, rinse and dry the brush. Move the colors towards each other. In the process, they themselves will begin to mix. Sometimes it will be necessary to add a little water or a special thinner for uniformity and even mixing of paints.

If you need to draw a perfectly straight line or make the contours as straight and even as possible, then masking tape can be used for these purposes. Stick it on the already well-dried paint. In the process of dripping new paint will not capture the bottom layer. Remove the masking tape after you have drawn the desired line.

If necessary, you can easily learn how to darken and lighten any color. This is done by adding black or white to the paint. Dark colors can be lightened more than light colors. Add white with extreme care. Even a small amount of it can greatly affect the color. By adding black, you can darken the picture. Black needs to be handled even more carefully than white. Mixing any color with black must be done carefully and thoroughly. Otherwise, unwanted black blotches may occur on the already dried paint.

You can use markers, pencils, and even pens (both gel and ballpoint) on top of the dry acrylic paint to complete the painting and give it a pop of color.

acrylic about new material V the art world and much younger than butter, but can be a great alternative. Acrylic paint is a water-dispersed paint based on polyacrylates (mainly polymers of methyl, ethyl and butyl acrylates), as well as their copolymers as film formers. This means that you can paint with water, no thinners or oils are required.

Depending on the technique, acrylic can look like watercolor or oil. After drying, the paint turns into an elastic film, does not fade over time and can even be exhibited on the street, as it is resistant to external influences. After drying, acrylic darkens a little, this should be taken into account when drawing.

Acrylic is a wonderful thing, it almost does not smell, it is cheaper than oil and you can paint with it on almost any surface. A paper sketchbook is also suitable (it is better to take sheets denser, because the paper can go in waves), and canvas on cardboard, and cardboard. If painting on a wooden surface, it is better to prime it first. It is most convenient to draw with synthetics and bristles, because the paint is heavy and delicate brushes like squirrels or ponies quickly deteriorate, plus the brushes must be washed immediately after work, otherwise the paint will dry out and the brush will be hopelessly damaged. It is better to pour cool rather than warm water into a jar of water - it can cause acrylic to harden at the base of the brush bundle. After work, make sure that all tubes and cans of paint are tightly closed, otherwise the paint will dry.

If you use more water, acrylic can be transparent, although it is inferior to watercolor, but you can still paint with glazing. After drying, acrylic glazes do not blur, so you can safely paint on top. I prefer to imitate oil, so I paint with bold strokes. In this case, you can not use water at all, but I still wash the brushes in the process, though I wring them out so as not to carry excess water onto the canvas. You can write with transparent strokes on top of a dense substrate. The coolest option is to paint on canvas on cardboard. It is convenient to insert such a picture into a frame, if necessary, it is light and looks more presentable, while the texture completely imitates the canvas, which adds an illusion oil painting, especially if you use a palette knife.

The beauty and at the same time the complexity of acrylic paints is that they dry quickly, so even on the palette the paints dry out. You can use a drying retarder, but I can’t say anything about it, I haven’t tried it.
I use a custom palette to slow down the drying a bit.

I take a porcelain or glass plate (it is more stable), cover it with paper towels and urinate the entire structure under the tap. The water should be decent, but it's worth squeezing the towels a little. On top of the towels I put a sheet of ordinary tracing paper, I have it slightly glossy, which is convenient, the brushes glide better. I lightly press the tracing paper so that it becomes damp, but not completely wet. Now you can squeeze the paint onto the tracing paper, there will be water under it and the paint in this case dries more slowly. Do not squeeze out a lot of paint at once. After work, you can close the palette with cling film and put it in the refrigerator, the paints can remain liquid for up to several days. This method actually saves paint. It is very convenient to use a small spray gun in the process of wetting the paints on the palette. Before painting, brushes can be soaked overnight in water, so they will absorb some water and will not absorb it during the work process.

I tried acrylic from different manufacturers, foreign brands are undoubtedly cool, from domestic ones I really like the Master Class and Ladoga series, I draw mainly with them. If you come across acrylic Gamma - do not waste your money, it is terrible and disgusting. Acrylic comes in jars and tubes, in decoys the paint is more liquid, in tubes it is thicker. I prefer tubes, they are more convenient, take up less space and the paint is more unlikely to dry inside the tube. Ideal acrylic is slightly watery and at the same time thick, the consistency should be something like mayonnaise. It should not have lumps and it should not be quite thick, as toothpaste. In this case, it is very difficult to make smooth smooth gradients and it is difficult to smear it on the surface at all. Gamma is just lumpy and too thick, and in each tube the paint will be different in consistency.

It is not necessary to buy 100,500 colors at once to try it out, acrylic mixes well and a set of 6-12 colors may be enough.
In my experience, I advise you to avoid ultramarine as a base of blue color, it is better to take something like blue FC or cobalt blue. It is also worth picking up neutral greens - medium green for example. White is the best titanium, they do not turn yellow over time. Here is an ideal set for beginners in my opinion, very budget-friendly and excellent quality.

There is also such a moment - if you are supposed to have a dark background, do not paint over the entire canvas. It is better to leave unpainted those areas that should be a different color. Acrylic is very difficult to overlap dark colors like black and dark blue. Otherwise, you will have to paint over objects with white and only after that write over desired color.

Acrylic goes well with other materials, such as markers, ink, colored pens, the same watercolor, pastel. The possibilities are almost endless, which is why mixed-media artists love acrylic so much.

Acrylic is almost never washed off clothes, so an apron can be very useful.

Finally, in the gallery there are a few additional pictures in different techniques All pictures in this post are taken from Pinterest.

Alexey Vyacheslavov shares his experience with acrylic paints. The master works systematically, not a single trifle escapes his inquisitive gaze. The developments that the author captures on paper can be an invaluable treasure for other budding artists.

Palette and Palette knife.

Acrylic dries very quickly. This is its disadvantage at the time when it is on the palette. And the same property is its advantage when acrylic on canvas. With fast drying on the palette, you need to somehow fight. For myself, I chose the following path - I use a wet palette which he himself did. It is set up as follows

I have a box available. The size of the box is about 12x9 cm and the height is about 1 cm. The box opens on a hinge into 2 equal halves. My box is black. And the palette should be white. Therefore, in order to level (hide) the black color, I put a clean layer on the bottom of one of the halves of the box. white paper cut to size bottom. I make several layers of paper. Before laying on the bottom, the paper must be well moistened, so that it is saturated with water, but not so wet as to form a puddle at the bottom of the box. On top of several layers of damp paper, I lay an ordinary white napkin. The napkin should also be damp and cut to fit the bottom of the box. Wet tracing paper lies on top of the napkin. I tried different types tracing paper. Tracing paper, which is sold in stationery stores as tracing paper, I did not like. Over time, it swells strongly, a pile forms on the surface, and this pile then, together with the paint, falls on the brush, and therefore on the canvas. This creates inconvenience. Of all the types of tracing paper that I had a chance to try, this drawback is devoid of tracing paper from a box of chocolates "Samara Confectioner". According to my feelings, it has some kind of impregnation that prevents the formation of pile. Of course, pile will also form over time, but for six months or a year you can forget about this problem. Thus, it is necessary to use a good tracing paper that does not form a pile on the surface under the influence of water. In general, the palette is ready. I spread the paint from a tube or jar directly onto tracing paper using a small palette knife.

the same palette knife, if necessary, I create a batch of paint of the desired color. During the drawing process, when the palette is open, water evaporates from the surface of the palette. Tracing paper, napkin and lower layers of paper dry out over time. For wetting, it is enough for me to add a small amount of water, which I add to the edge of the box. By tilting the palette, the water is distributed to all edges. If during the work the tracing paper becomes too dirty, which prevents obtaining pure shades of colors, it can be carefully pry off the edge with a palette knife and removed from the palette, rinsed under running warm water and put back.

If paint is left on the palette...

It has never happened before that I completed a painting in one day (evening). Therefore, I have situations when a certain amount of paint remains on the palette. To save it for future use, I proceed as follows. If the palette is moistened enough, then I simply close the palette. If the palette is not moist enough, then I add a few drops of water to it. Then I put the box in a plastic bag, as if wrapping it in a bag. And then I lay down the wrapped box in the refrigerator on the top shelf. There it can be stored until the next use for at least a week.. I usually take my palette out of the fridge the next day. I open the box and see that the paint has not dried up, but on the contrary, it has absorbed a certain amount of water and has become diluted, such that it is just right to use, imitating watercolor effects. I conclude that the palette was unnecessarily damp before storage. However, with such wet paint, you can immediately paint or wait until some of the water has evaporated. I usually use this paint for underpainting.

Acrylic

Acrylic paints that I use Ladoga and French Pebeo Deco.

Pebeo Deco

The first tests of acrylic showed that it lays down well and has good covering properties.

Acrylic Pebeo Deco — This is acrylic for decorative work. This explains such exotic names of color shades. Then it seemed to me that white and black were missing in the color palette to start drawing. It was not possible to buy these colors of Pebeo Deco acrylic. Then, to complement the color palette, the following colors of acrylic were purchased Ladoga

Used color paletteLadoga

Acrylic Ladoga has also been tested. Tests have shown that in terms of hiding power, it is inferior to Pebeo Deco acrylic. Otherwise, they were similar and can be mixed.

Speaking about acrylic, I still want to mention one more property of acrylic, which is its disadvantage - this is its darkening after drying. Some call it tarnishing. But in essence it is one and the same. Darkening occurs by about 2 tones, and this property is most noticeable when working slowly with acrylic, when the next layer is superimposed on an already dried one, and is especially noticeable when making smooth color transitions on large areas of the canvas.

brushes

For acrylics, I only use synthetic brushes. I have at my disposal oval brushes from #4 to #14

These brushes feature soft synthetic hair that leaves no marks on the canvas. The largest brushes #8 to #14 I use to perform underpainting or final drawing on sufficiently large areas of the surface of the canvas, for example, such as the sky. Smaller brushes No. 4 and No. 6 I use for smaller work.

Also in my arsenal are round and flat brushes. From flat brushes are No. 4 and No. 2. From round brushes are No. 2, No. 1, No. 0. Very rare I use brush #00. Its tip quickly wears out, fluffs up and it becomes almost like No. 0. Therefore, we can say that brushes #0 and #00 are almost the same size.

Drawing technique

I am currently I draw only from photographs. These photos are stored on the computer. But I don't like to sit in front of the monitor all the time and draw from the monitor. So I go to the photo studio and I print my favorite photo on A4 matte photo paper, sometimes A3.

When the sketch is transferred to the canvas, I start painting. First of all, I think over the work plan, determine the sequence of manifestation of objects on the canvas. It is more convenient for me to start drawing from the background, then move to the middle ground, and finish with the foreground. Usually I outline the approximate amount of work that I can complete in one evening. Based on this, looking at the photo, I determine what paints I need. As I wrote above, I spread the paints on the palette with a palette knife. I wipe the palette knife on the palette. For finishing, I wipe the palette knife with a napkin, which usually lies on the second half of my open palette. In the process of drawing, I often have to wash my brushes, and in order to remove excess water from the brush, I touch this very napkin with a brush, thereby draining the brush. Thus, the necessary paints lie on the palette, the palette knife is wiped off and nothing dries on it. Next, there are two ways to mix paints.

First way— mixing paints directly on the canvas.

I use this method to perform underpainting, drawing some large objects. This method allows you to draw objects in one pass, bypassing the underpainting stage. In this way I draw, for example, large leaves. With a flat brush No. 2, I first take one paint, then another and transfer it to the canvas. It turns out that I, as it were, put paint on a section of the canvas, at the same time I mix and distribute it, making movements with a brush that resemble poking towards the canvas. If I see that somewhere the wrong color is obtained, then a different shade can be applied over the paint that has not yet dried, mixing with the bottom layer. At the same time, no brush strokes remain on the canvas.

The second way is mixing paints on a palette. I use this method to further develop a section of the picture when there is already underpainting or in areas without underpainting when making smooth transitions from one color to another, for example, in areas such as the sky. In doing so, I proceed as follows. I spread a sufficiently large amount of white paint on the palette, such that you can paint over the entire sky. Then I add a small amount of blue paint to the white. Along with blue, I sometimes add crimson or dark blue, depending on the condition of the sky. I mix it all up and get a blue tint. If the resulting shade suits me, then I take a brush and start applying it to the canvas next to the horizon. If the resulting shade does not suit me, then I add a small amount of blue to this mixture. I do this until the desired shade of the sky near the horizon is obtained. I apply the paint with an oval brush No. 14, 10 or 8, depending on the area occupied by the sky on the canvas. The smaller the area of the sky, the smaller the brush I use. With this blue mixture I paint over a section of the sky of a certain width, moving up from the horizon.

Usually to white canvas did not show through the paint, you have to apply two layers of paint with drying between the layers. After that, a fairly large amount of the blue mixture remains on the palette. Next, I again add blue paint to this mixture, thereby obtaining a new darker shade. blue color. With this new mixture, I paint over the canvas above the already applied strip. The difference in shades of the stripes should not be significant. They should differ by about 2 tones. Earlier I wrote that acrylic darkens when it dries. This feature can be noticed just when drawing the sky. And so let's imagine that we have already painted a blue stripe near the horizon on the canvas and the paint has dried out. The fact that she darkened on the canvas, we did not notice. But if you compare the color on the canvas and on the palette, they will be different. The color is lighter on the palette. Now you need to make sure that these two colors are identical. To do this, you need to add such an amount of blue paint to the mixture on the palette so that the mixture on the palette is the same shade (or approximately the same) as the dried stripe on the canvas. Then you need to apply a new shade of the mixture next to the dried strip. At the time of applying a new shade of the mixture, it is clear that its color is identical to the already dried, previously applied one. And literally in a matter of seconds, right before our eyes, the new mixture becomes darker. To smooth the transition between the shades of the sky, I make small brush strokes on the first strip of the sky. At the same time, I use the same brush, but almost dry, almost without paint.

I make cross movements with the brush.

With this new mixture, I do exactly the same as with the previous ones. I end up with heaven. But the work on the sky does not end there. We can say that this is such an underpainting of the sky, although it is already quite traced. Usually the sky is not so perfect, so further I write various nuances on it in the form of barely noticeable cloud scatterings or more noticeable clouds. I also do all this with blue paint with variations in shades to a whiter area, or to a darker blue, or to a more crimson (see Figure 8). In this case, I use the smallest oval brushes No. 4 or No. 6, with a very small amount of paint, so as not to overdo it.

I want to pay special attention to the technique of drawing animal hair, in particular cat hair. The same techniques can be used to draw the hair of other similar animals and even to draw the plumage of birds.

The coat should look fluffy, voluminous and light. Therefore, when drawing wool, I use the imposition of several layers on top of each other. I start drawing wool with underpainting, using flat brush No. 2. At the same time, I try to get a color darker than the final coat color.

cat head underpainting

For drawing wool I use a brush number 0. I make the first layer over the underpainting with the lightest coat color. This color can be white (as in my case), beige, cream, light gray or some other light shade. With this color I cover the entire traced area of \u200b\u200bthe wool. I make movements with the brush in the direction of hair growth. One brushstroke corresponds to one hair of wool. Given the translucency of acrylic, you can see how the color of the underpainting appears through thin strokes. At the same time, the underpainting color spots do not lose their outlines.

First layer of wool (lightest)

At this stage, you have to wash the brush very often. I do 3-4 strokes and wash the brush. If this is not done, then the paint drying on the brush leads to its thickening, the fineness of the hairs disappears, the feeling of the splendor of the wool disappears.

I make the second layer of wool with a color that serves to display the shadow part of the wool. It may be some middle shade between the lightest coat color and the darkest. This medium shade should not be too bright. In my case, this is natural sienna diluted with white paint.

Second layer of wool (medium shade)

The third layer of wool is the layer in which the final work of the wool is done. The shades used can be very varied depending on the color of the coat. In my case, this is white, and shades of red, and shades of bright orange, and shades of brown. The more shades used, the livelier and more realistic the coat looks (see Figure 12). As an example, a drawing with a small worked area of \u200b\u200bwool on the left is shown.

The third layer of wool (final study)

When drawing wool, it turns out that a single hair of wool is made with a single brush stroke. The brush used is very fine, #0 or #00. Working with such brushes requires a lot of patience, but the result is worth it.

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