Proper break-in of a new machine is the key to a long engine life. Proper break-in of a new car

Under the influence of uneducated representatives of official dealers, in the minds of many people there is such an opinion that cunning robots magically assemble foreign cars and they do not need a run-in. Others are of the opinion that the car is a set of pieces of iron, it should be treated easier and your brain should not be tormented in vain. If you fall into this category, then read no further.

Why do you need a run-in

The car has a large number of parts that are subject to mutual friction (rubbing pairs). These rubbing parts are present not only in the engine, but wheel bearing parts, main axle gears, transfer case and gearbox gears, CV joints, cardan cross bearings are also subject to grinding. The pads to the brake drums and discs are also lapped. Even the wheels, in order to get all the qualities that are declared by the manufacturer, should be run in about 500 kilometers. In order for these parts to gradually run in to each other and at the same time not to wear out much or fail, they should work for a certain time in a gentle break-in mode.

Whatever managers say there, but the engines of modern foreign cars in their design are not far from power unit VAZ "penny". The engine has a huge number of rubbing pairs. In the motor, in order to reduce the coefficient of friction, a forced lubrication system is used: the necessary pressure is created by an oil pump and oil is supplied to all rubbing pairs through numerous oil channels. Thus, an oil film is always present between the rubbing pairs, it is also called the "oil wedge". normal pressure oil, which is able to provide good lubrication, is usually achieved at crankshaft speeds of 1200 rpm and above. That is why it is not recommended to keep the engine at idle during break-in. idling, since in this case the lubrication will burn to be insufficient in separately rubbing pairs, which results in their overheating and increased wear.

How to properly break in the engine?

The ideal break-in conditions for the entire vehicle are smooth driving with light loads on the transmission and engine. Moreover, the first 500 kilometers are the most responsible. Eat great sense devote a whole day to it. Get up earlier, before dawn, leave quietly without crowding and traffic jams with big city, and go somewhere in a uniform movement to the familiar nature of kilometers for 200-250. After resting until the evening in nature, you can also return calmly. The best day is Saturday. In the evening, there are still not many cars returning from dachas and you can maintain the necessary mode of movement. It is very harmful and undesirable to stand in traffic jams in the first 500 kilometers and pull the engine every meter.

Slightly below are the preferred driving modes during the initial and subsequent engine break-in periods. Slight deviations in the speed mode of this break-in schedule are quite acceptable. In each gear, the value of the recommended speeds corresponds to the acceptable engine speed, since not all cars have a tachometer.

It is desirable to break the first 500 kilometers into stages: the first 50 kilometers = in 3rd gear at a speed of 40-50 km / h. The next 100-150 kilometers = in 4th gear at a speed of 60-70 kilometers per hour. Then, for every 100 kilometers, increase the speed by 10 km / h, while remaining in 4th gear. Try not to allow aggressive acceleration, and when moving uphill, switch to downshift, and decrease the speed by 20%. This will make the engine easier. Uniform movement creates favorable conditions for engine break-in. Below are the maximum recommended speeds in km/h for each gear during a given break-in period. These values ​​correspond approximately to 2500 rpm of the engine.

• 1st gear = 20
• 2nd gear = 40
• 3rd gear = 60
• 4th gear = 80 - 90

In the next 500 kilometers, you can start using 5th gear, starting at a speed of 100 km / h, and trying not to exceed 120 km / h, but only on horizontal sections of the route, or downhill. During this break-in period, driving uphill in 5th gear is strictly unacceptable. You can also increase the engine speed (up to 3000 rpm to spin it) during transitions and acceleration to the following gears.

• 1st gear = 25
• 2nd gear = 45
• 3rd gear = 70
• 4th gear = 95
• 5th gear = 110 - 120

In the next 500 kilometers, you can increase the engine speed even more to 3500 rpm, during transitions next gear and during acceleration. In fifth gear, driving uphill during the break-in period of a new car is also undesirable.

• 1st gear = 30
• 2nd gear = 55
• 3rd gear = 75
• 4th gear = 110
• 5th gear = 130 - 140

The last 500 kilometers under the conditions are no longer as tough as the previous ones and you can gradually load the engine. Not protracted and gentle ascents can already be passed in fifth gear, at a speed of at least 110 kilometers per hour. At straight intervals on the road on an empty or half-empty car, you can load the engine by driving at a speed of 80-90 kilometers per hour in fifth gear, and at the same time save on gasoline consumption. Occasionally, you can afford to spin the engine up to 4000-4200 rpm when accelerating from a traffic light.

• 1st gear = 35
• 2nd gear = 60
• 3rd gear = 90
• 4th gear = 125
• 5th gear = 155 - 160

Sometimes it is possible to drive along the plain or downhill in an empty car in fifth gear at a speed of 145-155 kilometers per hour. Even such exercises are useful before LLP. The statistics of the car's behavior will be collected to draw the attention of specialists at the service station, if it suddenly turns out that something is wrong. LLP should be done preferably at the end of 2000 kilometers.

Avoid letting your engine idle.

Do not drive in fifth gear of a manual transmission, fourth or sixth gear in automatic box gears.

avoid on mechanical box engine braking gears and on an automatic transmission in manual mode.

Before starting the movement, warm up the engine for 4-5 minutes (depending on the air temperature), this should be done at a speed of 1000-1200.

You should start moving smoothly until the engine warms up, do not shift further than 3rd gear on a manual gearbox and keep the speed in the range of 1600-2100. In an automatic transmission for warming up on the move, you should forcefully set a mode that will not allow switching further 2nd (for 4-foot automatic transmission) and 3rd (for 6-foot automatic transmission) gears.

Try to avoid city traffic, since the regime of sharp and frequent starts and stops is inevitable, as well as prolonged standing in traffic jams when the engine is idling, which is harmful not only to an unrun-in engine, but in principle does not benefit even a run-in engine ( in the city is not realistic).

Try immediately after acquiring a car (registration and washing the numbers) to find money and wave somewhere along an unloaded good highway for 250 kilometers one way. The track is ideal option for car wrapping. When driving on the highway, you should not shift more than fourth gear, you should also not spin the engine over 3000 rpm, you should not accelerate more than eighty kilometers per hour. It is also worth avoiding prolonged movement at the same speed. It is recommended to change them every 10-15 minutes, varying in the range of 2000-3000 rpm. Check the level of oil and other fluids in the engine every hundred kilometers.

These first 500-1000 kilometers are very significant for the engine, patience must be observed.

During the passage of the first 500 kilometers, you should not be too lazy to look under the car more often (if something is leaking), you need to listen to the operation of the units (if something is noisy) and sniff (if something caught fire, especially after installing an alarm or other non-standard equipment). It's funny, grandmother's fears, but a car is a car, although foreign cars. As they say, God saves the safe! Who knows them there, these Koreans (we are not talking about the noble Kaliningraders), how they collected.

Every day before the trip it is necessary to check the level of oil in the engine and other fluids, once a day the level in the automatic transmission should be checked before leaving the car dealership, it is also necessary to check the pressure in the tires. Do not look under the car for fresh oil stains on the pavement.

When moving around the city (since it happened so), everything should be done very, very smoothly and not spin the engine over 2500 rpm. Avoid movement in tension, at low speeds. If you get into a traffic jam and stand for a long time, then it is worth increasing the speed to 1000-1200, the oil pressure will be higher, and lubrication will be better. In general, during the break-in process, smoothness is the key word.

You should not experiment on an unrun-in vehicle, checking the acceleration figures declared by the manufacturer top speed and from 0 to 100 kilometers per hour. Firstly, a car that has not been run in is cool, and you will not set records. Secondly, believe me, if you run it in correctly, you will have real chance exceed the declared characteristics. Don't rush, everything has its time.

How to break in a transmission?

During the break-in period of the vehicle, its operation in off-road conditions is prohibited. It is also not recommended to tow a trailer for the first 800 kilometers. You should also not brake sharply, let the pads gradually rub against the discs.

When is the first time to change the oil?

You should not listen to managers' tales of "cold" factory break-in, the magical qualities of modern engines and super-secret break-in oils filled in them. At the break-in plants, oil is poured into the engine, devoid of completely special anti-friction additives. This is done in order to quickly roll rubbing pairs. But speed is not always good for the engine. Therefore, we do not recommend driving more than 5,000 kilometers on break-in oil. In the process of running a car in oil, a large amount of metal microparticles appears due to the grinding of parts. The filter catches only some of them, and some continues to walk around the engine. And the longer you do not change the oil, the more such particles become. The time may come when the filter is completely clogged with them and the oil stops filtering, starts to bleed it through the pressure reducing valve. And all this fine-friction crap will walk around the motor, and be between the rubbing parts. As a result, instead of gradual mutual running-in, you will get accelerated wear. We are not talking about the fact that the engine has a large number of tiny oil channels that can become clogged with corny wear products and some rubbing pairs will remain without lubrication. Perhaps we are exaggerating, but the advice of experienced minders: after the first 8000-1000 kilometers, it is necessary to change the oil along with the filter.

How much to roll?

There is no consensus, the spread in numbers is 1600-5000 kilometers. Here we will not advise anything, but remember for the rest of your life the words of one old minder from the national team Soviet Union rally: do not rush, the longer and better you run the engine, the faster the car will go later. In short, everyone chooses.

And if you score and do not run in?

Many of you have probably heard about such experiments. Some argue that it’s even possible not to run in, foreign-made engines are tenacious, they go on any 100,000 kilometers without capital. Therefore, if you think that a car is a piece of iron and do not plan to drive it for more than 100,000, then you can score.

Everyone who becomes a happy owner of a brand new car hears a huge amount of advice and recommendations regarding the obligatory running in of their “iron horse”. However, sometimes these tips differ so much and even contradict each other that it can be difficult for an unprepared person to understand all the intricacies of this important and, as it seems to him, complex process. In fact, the devil is not as scary as he is painted, and today the site will talk about simple, but effective ways break-in of a new car.

Do not listen to those who say that modern cars are so technologically advanced that they simply do not require any break-in. Such an opinion is not substantiated by anything, since no one has yet canceled the elementary laws of physics. Any parts that interact with each other, regardless of what technologies were used in their manufacture, need to be adapted, that is, in a banal grinding (running in). To ignore this fact means to doom the engine, transmission and other components with a large number of high-precision moving elements to work with increased loads outside the range of their greatest efficiency. As a result, the useful life of components and assemblies will become shorter, not to mention the increased consumption of fuel, oil, etc.

You can often hear from dealership managers about the so-called “cold” break-in, which is carried out by the manufacturer himself, which supposedly frees you from the need for a “hot” break-in (the one we will talk about below). Like, everything is ready - press the "gas" and enjoy! Alas, not everything is so rosy. Indeed, some manufacturers carry out a “cold” running-in of the engine at the factory on special stands in order to carry out the initial running-in of friction pairs, but this is just one of the ways to detect defects, and in no way can it replace a full-fledged “hot” running-in. This must be remembered in order not to become a victim of technical illiteracy of sales managers.

First and most important rule when running in a new car - forget for a while that you have a powerful and dynamic car (unless, of course, this one is). Do not make yourself an athlete, be patient a little. For the first 1000-1500 km of run, your car should not feel bullying. Everything you do should be soft and gentle. This is really important, because this is the very essence of the break-in. Moreover, it is very desirable that it be carried out not by a beginner, but by an experienced driver who knows how to handle the car carefully. For those whose life behind the wheel is just beginning, for quite objective reasons, this does not always work out. Think, perhaps among your acquaintances there is a person who can be trusted with a running-in. Your car will benefit from this.

One of the features of the new powertrains is that they are not very good at long-term operation in the same range of crankshaft speeds, regardless of whether it is low or high. By the way, this is written in black and white in the operating instructions of most cars, so during the break-in period, try not to drive for too long at the same speed. It's not difficult, agree? But you shouldn't go to extremes either. Intense acceleration and deceleration (the pads also need to get used to the discs) are no less harmful than prolonged constancy. Look for the golden mean.

The most friendly for an average engine is the speed range from 2000 to 4000. In addition, as practice shows, in this range the engine consumes the least fuel, however, it is undesirable to raise the tachometer needle above 3000 rpm without special need, as it is undesirable to dial speed in high gear, when the number of revolutions drops to, say, 2000. In this case, the load on the engine will not correspond to the driving conditions, that is, it will be excessively large.

According to engine engineers, prolonged operation of the power unit at idle, as well as engine braking, is equated to operating it in difficult conditions with all the ensuing consequences, but it is still necessary to let the engine reach operating temperature after starting. It is also very important not to overload new car luggage, and at first you shouldn’t even think about a trailer and trips to the country on impassable roads. If you get stuck in mud, sand or other obstacle, it will be impossible to get out without the maximum load on the engine and transmission.

By the way, do not forget to check the level of oil and other fluids more often, and from time to time look under the bottom of the car to make sure there are no leaks. This will give you the opportunity to identify possible defects at an early stage and take measures to eliminate them. This is really important. For example, in the event that the engine is left without oil, and you do not notice it, the consequences will be sad, and repairs will be extremely expensive. Just in case, you should always have a spare container of oil with you.

To check the oil level, the vehicle must be on a level surface. The check should be carried out 3-5 minutes after the engine has stopped. Remove the dipstick, wipe it dry with a lint-free cloth, reinsert the dipstick and remove it again after a couple of seconds. The oil level must be between the MIN and MAX marks on the dipstick. The distance between the marks corresponds to approximately 1 liter of oil. If its level is significantly below the MAX mark, the oil must be topped up, moreover, it must be of the same grade. It is also important that after topping up the oil level does not exceed the MAX mark.

Speaking about the break-in of a new car, many believe that it is only related to the power unit, unfairly forgetting about other nodes. In particular, about the transmission, which requires at least careful attitude especially "mechanics". Do not throw the clutch pedal too hard, and handle the gearshift lever carefully. Let the discs and gears get used to each other as best as possible. Otherwise, the operation of the transmission may become less comfortable in the future.

After your car has driven a certain number of kilometers, do not be too lazy to go to the so-called "zero MOT" (recommended mileage after which it is necessary to pass it, ask your dealer). Many do not take it seriously, believing that it is just another attempt to get extra money out of the car owner, but the importance of such maintenance is difficult to overestimate. This is a fairly deep diagnostics of the car and its equipment. In addition, mechanics will check the level and condition of all fluids, especially oil, which we would recommend changing, because sometimes small metal particles (in other words, shavings from poorly machined parts) get into it, which can harm the engine.

That, in fact, is all you need to know about the features of running a car. If you adhere to all of the above, very soon your car will gain its optimal shape and will fully delight with all the possibilities that the engineers have put into it.

P.S. Everything said in this article is most directly related to the running-in of cars after overhaul. Moreover, if you are not sure that your car was “revived” by highly qualified specialists using special equipment and in compliance with all standards, you need to treat the run-in after overhaul with even more attention and at first operate the car in the most gentle mode.

Vsevolod 6 years

1. In modern car dealerships, zero maintenance is free of charge! 2. On modern cars, the speed range for normal (and economical) driving without engine load is 1500-2500 rpm, but not up to 4000 - this is nonsense! 3. The oil and filter are changed at the first (not at zero) MOT... Otherwise, Mr. Kiselyov, these are recommendations for running in a cheap primitive car...

1500 - you already drove it, the average modern car at 1500 rpm it just won’t go anywhere. No one says that at zero MOT they change the oil or filters. Recommendations are selected with the motive "better safe than sorry" and do not forget that 80% of cars in Ukraine are still cheap and primitive

4 years

You are wrong. At the same time, the Hyundai i20 Ultima (2013, 1.4 l, automatic 4-speed), so it shifts to 4th gear at 50 km/h and farther to nіy (like farther than gas) at 1250 rpm!!! The price for the new and the most economical mode is the best transmission with the lowest wraps.

Alexander 6 years

The article is correct, it won’t hurt to remind you once again, but I can argue about flushing, you need to flush the motor, because. after running in, the old oil is drained with all the rubbish in it, if you don’t flush the engine, dirt with old oil will get into the clean oil, which is located in the channels from which the oil itself does not drain. They washed the motor, drained the flush, you can blow it out after, filled in new oil, and if you constantly fill in the same oil, you don’t need to flush the motor in the future. When changing the oil, it is advisable to change the oil filter and air filter. There is such a thing as a regulation according to which it is necessary to carry out service work, and there are no fools sitting at the factories either. Learn mat. part of the Lord and do not listen to illiterate people, trust the specialists and your car will serve you for a very long time, it all depends on you!

vladimir 5 years

Alexander probably means flushing with flushing oil, and not with an additive that is added to old oil, in this I completely agree with him.

291 Nm - enough for a light 6 years

Giving a new cellophane-wrapped car to someone for a break-in. It's like skimming cream. And how about taking relatives and friends for a ride, hearing their envious flattering reviews, seeing them off in the evening with a look, and in the morning, waking up at the crack of dawn, run to the parking lot and to the car wash, to the car wash ... What would shine ..? NEVER

Ivan 6 years

You need to roll in new tires, not those new cars. Fanaticism is shkidlivy everywhere, but you still need to under-adjust the move and under-rotate the engine. Different regimes are also at the mercy. Change the oil for a hundred times - I would be radiive without flushing. Age flushing is very suitable for a living car with deposits of soot, especially when switching from mineral water to synthetics. And what kind of deposits will there be in an underpriced new motor? Take a picture of the raja looking at the rozpodіlnogo shaft under the stopper of the oil inlet (you can see it), and after 3-5 t. If I can give you finances, then after zlivu factory oil and replace the filter with the cheapest one, fill in good oil, crank the engine 5 hours at idle, make it angry, change the filter to a worthy one for your car and fill in good oil for further operation. Well, it's expensive, but we'll run it in 1 time! That "oil flush" can be zastosuvati for topping up, as if it is not cloudy. In boxes and differentials, if the factory oil is good, then you can not change it in the fire, even if there are magnetic caps for chips

Sergiy 6 years

In my opinion, the wash is inflamed with a shkidliva rіch (rozvodnyak) that you can get it for five or ten khvilin. It's better to beat the washings with a run, the effect is bigger and the engine is not to be messed up.

DM 5 years

I fully agree - flushing is a scam. And when changing the oil, the oil filter. be sure to change. Zero maintenance at Toyota is free (with an oil change).

Maraned 5 years

The phrase "According to engine engineers, the long-term operation of the power unit at idle ... is equated to operating it in difficult conditions with all the ensuing consequences" is not clear. What physical processes can explain this? It looks like bullshit.

Andrey M 5 years

Each car has an Owner's Manual, everything is described there! Never listen to anyone, read it and learn the mathematical part! Technology does not stand still, engineers and technologists are not stupid at the manufacturing plant! At one time, I also listened to many homegrown Kulibins! When I got burned and got on the money, then I realized "why in Odessa roofing material"! I began to carefully read the instructions and have never regretted it !!!

Correctly said, "read the instructions". Having read it myself, it is practically clear what is up to what, like oil, what kind of antifreeze is needed, etc. And on services in car dealerships, to conduct pre-sale preparation is carried out abi yak (the line of perverity and rotation there is required). And what can you say about THAT - only a penny widow ...

People who have recently become car owners hear advice from acquaintances and technical masters on the correct running-in of a new car from everywhere. However, such advice varies greatly from each other. An unprepared person will be confused, I don’t know who to believe, and where the truth is. In this article we will tell you everything about the running of the new "iron horses".

What is a new car break-in?

This is a gentle driving mode on a new car for the first 2000-3000 kilometers. It is needed primarily for the engine. All moving elements inside the cylinder block must “grind in”. The gears in the gearbox must undergo the same grinding. The suspension of a new car, in principle, is ready immediately for any load. However, this does not mean that in the first three thousand kilometers you can load a new car and drive quietly. The heavy unusual weight of the car will require more intensive work from the engine, which is not acceptable during this period.

• Do not increase engine speed above 3000-3500 rpm.
• Avoid abrupt gear changes
• In the case of a manual transmission, gently depress the clutch pedal and remove your foot from it to rub the release bearing.
• Do not make sudden accelerations and the same sudden stops.
• Replace break-in engine oil in time.

Of course, all these recommendations must be followed in the first thousand kilometers of trips on a new car. It is also worth making a trip to zero maintenance on time, when they will change the break-in oil to a permanent one at the car service.

The most important are the first 1500 kilometers of a new car. up to this mileage, it is not recommended to accelerate the car over 90 km / h and use the highest gear of the transmission. In the case of a gasoline engine, only after driving the first 1,500 kilometers will it be possible to gradually increase the load on the engine and car up to 3,000 kilometers. After that, it is considered that the car has been run-in, and it can be operated even at maximum speeds and engine speeds.

With diesel engines, the situation regarding break-in is more complicated. The running-in mileage of a turbodiesel is twice as long. In the first 1500 kilometers of the new diesel car engine speed must be kept in the range from 1200 to 2500 rpm. This means that even during the morning warm-up, the driver will need to maintain the diesel engine speed at 1200 rpm. During the break-in period of a turbodiesel, it is worth avoiding idling the car in neutral gear of the transmission. That is, when descending a hill, the car must go "in gear". After 1500 kilometers, you can slightly increase the speed range of the crankshaft of the motor. However, this will happen very slowly. The entire break-in period for cars with diesel units lasts about 6000 kilometers. Only after that it is possible to operate the turbodiesel at maximum power.

You can often hear from some car sales managers that the manufacturer has carried out a "cold break-in" of the car, and you can put pressure on the gas, leaving directly from the car dealership. Should it be believed? Remember the volume of production of mass-produced cars, especially popular brands. The time for cold break-in should not be short. Given the huge volume of production from the assembly line of popular car models, it is unlikely that the manufacturer will carry out this procedure with all copies. And it’s also hard to believe that they will do this during pre-sales service. Such a procedure will already be at the expense of an individual dealer. Therefore, always break in a new vehicle within the mileage interval declared above.

Toyota brand cars have been named the most reliable in the world for several years. That is why it is worth listening to the advice of car dealership managers of this brand when they advise the correct running-in of a new car.

What do Toyota advise, besides everything that has already been named? Managers insist not to drive for a long time in low gears or at a constant speed. That is, the mode of traffic jams in our major cities not suitable for running-in, in fact, as well as a long trip along the highway at a speed of 90-120 km / h. Also, on cars with manual transmissions, it is not advised to brake the engine during break-in.

We hope that our tips will help you properly break in your brand new purchase.

That long-awaited moment has come when you rushed to the car dealership for a new four-wheeled friend. And here it is standing in front of you - modern, beautiful, comfortable. But before you start using it to its fullest, you need to break in the car. It doesn't matter what kind of car it is - it needs special attention from the first minutes of purchase. If you strictly adhere to the rules of operation and perform the necessary technical procedures on time, the machine will become your most faithful and most grateful friend.

Oddly enough, but the Western media prove that they don’t need a break-in - they say, the automotive industry has reached such heights in our time that everything is lapped and adjusted during the assembly process, and many cars are tested before being put up for sale. However, this is not the case. The fact is that you will use your car not only for flat road, but also on potholes, potholes and other shortcomings in the work of road transport services. And any technique needs to get used to such conditions. Because running a new car is a must!

Basic requirements for machine break-in

To avoid trouble in the future, you should responsibly approach the break-in procedure. First of all, take a look at - this book clearly describes everything desired characteristics and data of procedures performed. Remember: the correct running-in of a new car is the key to a further flawless car and all its details. The first kilometers determine and shape how the car will perform in the future. Familiarize yourself with the permissible modes of operation of the machine in the first three thousand runs and adhere to these requirements, then in the future you will know that you have made every effort for the quality work of your iron horse.

The video tells in detail about the engine break-in:

• The day for you and your car should begin with other fluids that affect the safe movement of the iron horse. Experts advise at the beginning of the break-in to choose a flat section of the road and drive along it up to five hundred kilometers. This will have a positive effect on further running. It is recommended to check the level when the car is parked on a flat surface some time after the engine is turned off. Remove the dipstick and wipe dry with a lint-free cloth. Then put it back in place and take it out again after a few seconds. The oil level must be within the upper and lower marks. , then its level will be either slightly above the lower mark, or completely below it. Then it is worth adding oil, and the same brand that is filled there. However, be careful: the oil level should not exceed the upper mark.

• The most basic rule is to follow the recommended speed limit. This affects the dynamics of acceleration and the duration of the operation of the car.
• The driving of the car should be smooth, without sharp starts and sudden braking. Jerks will knock down the correct setting of parts, and repairs will be inevitable. Racing, unbridled acceleration and slippage, engine braking are also contraindicated.
• A monotonous regime, especially at the initial stage of operation, will also not lead to positive consequences. At this time, the formation of the qualities of the motor takes place, and such actions will lead to the voracity of your four-wheeled comrade. According to experts, they fluctuate between two and four thousand.
• Continuous operation of the engine Idling just as detrimental to the engine itself as the characteristics described above. In this case, the country of origin of your car does not matter. However, do not forget that the running-in of the machine implies not only the operation of the engine, but also all other parts, assemblies and assemblies, which means that they also require a special approach.
• Special attention should be paid. They wear out during the first five hundred kilometers of driving, which means sharp pressing pads on the brake pedal will fail. From such rash actions, the entire braking system can suffer.
• If you have a car with a manual transmission, then you do not need to sharply press and release the clutch pedal. Gear shifting is smooth and gentle, jerks in this case are dangerous. However, modern machines are equipped with short-stroke mechanics, which greatly simplifies switching on and off speeds.
• Increasing the load at the first stages is contraindicated for a new car. or an excess number of passengers will have a negative impact on the dynamics of the car.

The break-in period of a new car is not measured in time. The value is directly the mileage of the car in kilometers. Professionals recommend running a new car for at least three to four thousand kilometers. This will be enough for all units and components to get used to and enter into the usual order of work. Some parts will require less mileage, however, for greater confidence in the accuracy of your car in the future, it is better to drive at least the recommended three thousand. How long a car break-in lasts depends on you and your desire to bring the car to perfection.

The final stage of the car break-in

After driving a certain number of kilometers, it will be correct to produce the so-called (it is better to ask your seller about the recommended mileage). Often, car owners are skeptical of him, believing that this is just another pumping out of money. Zero maintenance is a kind of rather deep and thorough diagnostics of the machine and all its units. In addition, mechanics check the level of all fluids and their condition, since often in the oil you can find metal chips that get into the oil from new, unrolled parts. After the initial run, it is worth changing the oil to avoid engine damage.

If you have become, but do not know how to break in, you should first of all refer to the manual - the operating instructions for the machine. As experts advise, it is necessary to follow all the recommendations specified in this manual in order to extend the life of your four-wheeled friend, as well as postpone the repair of its parts to a later date. This will help you not to incur further financial losses after the material costs of the car itself.

In order to break in the car as correctly as possible, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the recommendations of experts who know the meaning of this. This will help your car get into the optimal shape, and it will delight you with all the characteristics laid down in it by engineers.

In addition, everything discussed in this article is also related to the running-in of cars after a major overhaul. In addition, if there is no certainty that your car was serviced by qualified workers, then in this case, your renewed friend simply needs the most gentle operation.

Most likely, every car enthusiast knows that the running-in of a car requires some restrictions during the operation of the car. We will talk about what restrictions are needed, how many kilometers of run should last, and why they are needed.

New car owners

According to experts, the new car really only needs an engine run-in. The service life of the remaining units is not so much dependent on the first hundreds of kilometers correctly covered. Proper engine break-in will allow it to work for you for a long time and without fail.

Lapping of brake pads to discs and drums in a new car occurs after fifty kilometers. This is usually the mileage of a new car going on sale, which means that the required braking performance is achieved before the car arrives at the dealership. Transmission units and parts, as well as suspensions, also do not need grinding. There is nothing to grind in the suspension, it only wears out during operation. Pairs of helical transmission gears operating in a constant slipping mode will wear in even faster than the brakes. Yes to their job external factors practically and have no effect, unlike the motor. Therefore, the correct break-in of a new car is to break in the engine. The only recommendations for running in the transmission are to depress the clutch and change gears smoothly. So you need to do after the end of the break-in.

What can be recommended regarding the brakes: when running in, be careful not to drive into puddles after intensive braking, as water that has fallen on a hot brake disc will lead to its deformation. From this, during braking, beats will occur, reducing its effectiveness and increasing wear on the brake pads. However, this should be feared not only during the break-in.

The friction surface must be flat.

The running-in of a new car, according to the recommendations of various manufacturers, should last from 3 to 5 thousand kilometers. If you do not know how much the manufacturer recommends running your car in, it will be correct to operate the car in a gentle mode for at least a thousand kilometers. The first 500 km of break-in have the greatest influence on its result. Therefore, it would be very useful to pass them outside the city on a good level road to a resting place 200 kilometers from home. The path to the picnic and back should be conditionally divided into three segments. Drive the first 50 km at a constant speed of about 50 km/h in 3rd gear. The next hundred miles in 4th gear without exceeding a speed of 70 km / h. Further, remaining in 4th gear, increase the speed by 10 km / h after overcoming each next hundred kilometers.

Avoid high accelerations, and before climbing, slow down and shift into a lower gear in advance, so the motor will be easier. Uniform movement of the car is the least load on the engine. And therefore most suitable for its running.

Running-in of new and post-repair internal combustion engines

Before driving, be sure to warm up the engine to operating temperature. Warming up should occur at a crankshaft speed of no more than 1.5 thousand revolutions per minute. Proper break-in is to avoid overloading the engine. Overload for the engine is the combustion in the cylinder of a large amount of air-fuel mixture at a relatively low speed of the piston down. On the road, this happens when driving uphill in V gear at a speed of no more than 70 km / h and the accelerator pedal is almost fully depressed. Or under the same conditions in IV gear no faster than 50 km / h.

One of the reasons for the accelerated appearance of scoring on the working surface of the cylinders is improper running-in of the internal combustion engine.

Under such conditions, the pressure of the burnt mixture on the piston crown is only partially converted into rotational motion of the crankshaft, while the main energy increases the pressure on the crankshaft journals. It is also spent on the lateral displacement of the piston and pressure on it in this direction. Therefore, such conditions, firstly, increase the wear of the journals and crankshaft liners, and secondly, the wear of the cylinders and pistons occurs unevenly, which leads to leakage in their mating. After that, you can not do without repairs. Moreover, such wear makes the replacement of piston rings meaningless and requires a more serious repair. Since, due to the large ellipse of the pistons, they will need to be replaced, and the same defect in the cylinders will require them to be bored and honed.

During the first five hundred kilometers of break-in, the engine must not be allowed to operate under load at a crankshaft speed above 2.5 thousand rpm. For cars that do not have a tachometer, you need to know the permissible speed in each gear, at which the crankshaft speed will be equal to the maximum permitted. For the 1st gear, the speed during this period should not exceed 20 km / h, for the rest:

• II - 40 km per hour;
• III - 60 km per hour;
• IV - 90 km per hour.

After running the first five hundred kilometers, you can sometimes turn on fifth gear. The speed in this case should be close to a hundred, and the road should not have rises. Exceeding the speed of 120 km / h during this period, even when moving in 5th gear, is highly undesirable. But in this phase of running-in during acceleration, it is already allowed to spin the engine up to 3.5 thousand rpm.

The final 500 km of break-in allow you to gradually increase the load on the engine. Gentle short climbs can be overcome from acceleration in V gear at a speed of at least 110 km / h. On flat (without climbs) sections of the road and with an empty car, you can switch to V gear at a speed of 80 to 90 km / h. Sometimes when accelerating, it is allowed to raise the engine speed to four thousand revolutions per minute. The control values ​​\u200b\u200bof permissible speeds for cars without a tachometer also increase: I gear - 35 km / h, II - 60, III - 90, IV - 125, V - 160.

Diesel engine break-in features

Features of engine break-in after repair

The peculiarity of the engine after repair is that its oil pump (like the entire lubrication system) is often without oil, therefore, due to its design features, it is unable to create pressure in the lubrication system. In order for oil to get into the oil pump, you need to pour several syringes of this liquid into the hole located next to the oil filter mount. Then screw on the filter. The engine can be started and run in like a normal new engine.

When warming up an engine that has returned from repair, do not be afraid of smoke in the engine compartment - this will burn new exhaust manifold gaskets and downpipe. This is always the case after an engine overhaul.

Features of running in a car with automatic transmission

• Do not start moving until the automatic transmission warms up, and the oil in it (cold and thick oil in the automatic transmission makes it difficult to work);
• Do not use the kickdown mode (do not press the gas pedal to the floor);
• do not allow the car to move for a long time in neutral or towing. Otherwise, the machine will require repair, or even replacement. It should be noted that the last recommendation is also relevant after the break-in period.