On a long journey on "Kalina" ← Hodor. What to take with you on a long journey

Everything can be expected from our VAZ auto system, so you need to be prepared for any situations on the road, especially if the path is not close!
Here are my recommendations, personally verified (better to have and not need than to need and not have!)

What to check before traveling:

1. Presence, level and color (purity) of the coolant

2. Level and degree of pollution engine oil.

3. Condition of timing belts and attachments

4. Level and condition of the brake fluid

5. Condition of the brake pads

6. The operation of the stove, air conditioner and radiator cooling fans.

7. Condition rims and tires.

8. Adjust tire pressure.

9. It is MANDATORY to check the presence and condition of the spare tire.

Always in the trunk should be:

*Cigarette lighter wires

*Rope for emergency transportation

*Tools (practice has shown that it is better not to save on them: a special set for a car enthusiast is useful in different situations, even if you don't know what tool is for; there will always be people on the road who are ready to help, but do not stock up on the right tool)

*Spare wheel, balloon wrench, jack

* Pump (better, the one that is foot)

* A can of gasoline (especially if you fill up with 95th - at a distance of 150 km. from major cities it is already hard to find; a 5-liter canister is enough; fill to the top so that vapors do not accumulate)

*In winter - antifreeze, distilled water, antifreeze fluid for the washer reservoir, engine oil

*Repair kit for rubber (to seal a small cut)

*Fuse set

* Spare set of candles

*Spare bulbs for headlights

*Spare alternator belt

* Flashlight with spare batteries

*Batteries for alarm key fob

*Piece of sandpaper

*Gloves for dirty work; in winter - plus warm gloves and shoes

* Rags, rags

*Water container

1. Optional tool kit:
- big hammer
- screwdrivers with flat and cross-shaped blades in three sizes - small, medium and large (power);
- chisel;
- a set of heads from "8" to "32" with extensions 125 and 250 mm, a knob, a ratchet and a universal joint (domestic, European or American production);
- a key for bleeding the brakes and a thin hose 15–20 cm long;
– core;
- hacksaw for metal;
- a file with a notch of medium size;
- additional mounting blade;
- a coil of knitting wire;
- a piece of thick cardboard for the manufacture of gaskets;
- several screw clamps of different diameters;
- a piece of sandpaper.
2. Stand for a jack - a wooden block 40x250x250 mm, a stand (such as a "tragus") for working under a car.
3. A can of engine oil (1 or 4 liters in a package). Moreover, for a 1000 km run for a new car that has not been run-in, take 4 liters, for the past 50,000 km - 1 l, for the past 100,000 km - 2 l, with a mileage of over 100,000 km - 4 l.
4. Coolant canister 1 l (in winter - 5 l).
5. Liquid for topping up in the power steering - 1 l.
6. Oil for topping up in the gearbox - 1 l.
7. A bottle of brake fluid.
8. A tube of grease Litol-24.
9. Canister with gasoline - 5 liters.
10. Hose for pouring gasoline.
11. Additive to the fuel to increase the octane number (based on two full gas stations).
12. Means for removing bituminous stains from the body.
13. Means for removing adhering insects from the windshield.
14. Special kit for repairing tubeless tires without stripping or wheel sealant.
15. At least one wiper blade.
16. Ignition module for one cylinder.
17. Proven thermostat.
18. Oil and petrol resistant sealant.
19. Repair kit for muffler repair.
20. A set of spare lamps (half of all lamps installed on the vehicle, excluding repetitive ones).
21. New brake pads (two each for disc and drum brakes).
22. A set of coupling springs for drum brake shoes (for one brake mechanism).
23. Brake hoses (the car has hoses different sizes, have one of each size).
24. A pair of wheel bolts.
25. Box with bolts, nuts and

Well, this is too much, the driver. Of course. know better...

the way is far

Russian road (enemies will not pass and will not pass)

no comments

washers (two or three pieces from M5 to M10).
26. In winter - a glass defroster and a “liquid key” for locks.
27. In winter - a bag of sand.
28. Wide transparent adhesive tape (for repairing hoses and broken glass).
29. Lantern on batteries or accumulators and a spare set of batteries for it.
30. Roulette (may come in handy in case of an accident).
31. Box of matches, hatchet.
32. Strong rope or cord.
33. Thread work gloves.
34. Something from work clothes.
35. Hand cleaner.
36. Carpet for work under the car.
37. Soft pencil, several sheets of paper or notepad.

of the spare parts are required: DPKV (the engine will not work without it), a speed sensor (the EUR will not work without it), 1 ignition coil, a set of candles (it can be old, but serviceable), one wiper blade (it can be old), a bottle of vodka? (universal currency for a tractor driver in the wilderness)), some amount of money. candle key

A long trip on your own car differs from just a trip by public transport in that you are responsible for the state of transport, and how quickly you get from point "A" to point "B" depends on your preparedness.

In this article I will try to give an exhaustive answer to the question: " What to take with you to long way? " and: " How to prepare for a long trip in your own car?". Based on my own experience, and the experience of many motorists, I will try to do the best full list things that you need to take with you so that in case of "force majeure" or unforeseen circumstances you have everything for their successful resolution.

Any trip is a test for passengers, as well as the driver himself, who bears a great responsibility for the lives of those he transports, and also for the condition of the vehicle he drives.

So, what to take with you on a long journey?

Documentation

In addition to the usual things that you may need (things, food, gadgets, etc.), you need to think about the documents, without which at least the driver should not go on the road.

1. Of course, a passport, without it on the road anywhere. I think it makes no sense to explain here, everyone already understands what kind of document this is and how important it is for each person. If you are traveling abroad, then do not forget also your passport.
2. Next, you need to check the availability of "auto documents", this is a registration certificate (power of attorney to drive the vehicle), driver's license, insurance.

Tool

The second most important, in my opinion, are the tools that can come in handy in the event of an unexpected breakdown of your car or other situation requiring repair. I will say right away that it is difficult to carry out serious repairs on the road, and sometimes it is completely impossible, so you need to understand that your main task is to "hold out" to the nearest service station. It is in order to "reach out" to the service station that you will need the following list of tools.

1. Jack, spare. It is in every car, so all you need is to check its performance.
2. Pump. Often on the road, it is the wheels that fail and you have to rely only on the spare wheel and the pump.
3. A set of wrenches, including a balloon wrench and an adjustable wrench. It is desirable to have both open-ended and end-ended ones, the situations are different and sometimes the issue cannot be resolved with only open-ended ones. It would not be bad for a set of keys to have an extension cord in the form of a small piece of pipe, which will allow you to unscrew a stuck or tightly twisted nut or bolt.
4. Pliers, a piece of thin wire (just in case, you may have to tie something up somewhere).
5. Tow rope. Here I think everything is clear to everyone, if the tool does not help, then with the help of a cable you can be pulled to the nearest locality where local experts can help you.
6. First aid kit, fire extinguisher, warning triangle, vest with reflective elements. I think that everyone has such a set, so I will not dwell on this point, the most important thing is to check the condition of all these things, their suitability and serviceability.
7. A piece of foam rubber or an old bedspread in case you need to lie on the ground for repairs.
8. Flashlight, as well as a repair lamp that runs on batteries. Repairs may be needed not only during daylight hours, it is even better to change the wheel with a flashlight or a portable repair lamp.
9. To all this set, a set of old clothes will not be superfluous, which it is not a pity to get dirty in case of repair.

Important fluids

Often overcoming hundreds of kilometers in your car, which is fully serviced, it becomes necessary to top up this or that liquid. Of course, take everything with you. possible oils and liquids are not worth it, they are unlikely to be needed, but some liquids are still worth taking. This item is especially important for older cars whose engines "take oil".

1. Engine oil. , you need to foresee this nuance, take a small container of oil with you for topping up on the road.
2. cool. You can take a little for topping up, or you can take distilled water. In principle, you can do without coolant, provided that the car is serviced and has no problems with cooling.
3. Clean water (2-3 liters). On the road, you may need it for a variety of needs.

Just in case

In this paragraph, I will give a number of useful things that can make life easier for you on the road.

1. Matches or lighter. If the overnight stay is under open sky or you just want to stay in nature, then a warm warming fire will not hurt you, and having matches or a lighter with you, it will not be difficult to light a fire.
2. A sharp knife that can be used to cut food or cut out some wooden skewers for cooking meat or sausage...
3. Toilet paper, dry and wet wipes, toothpicks, disposable tableware. Such things are never superfluous, we are all people and we love comfort anywhere.
4. A warm blanket or blanket in case you suddenly want to stop and sleep for a few hours, or in case you have to fix your car in the middle of a deserted highway, in which case it will be comfortable for your fellow travelers to wait while you fix this or that malfunction.
5. Soap, shampoo, and other personal care items. In this case, I think everything is clear and obvious, it is unlikely that you will go, for example, to the sea without a toothbrush or soap.
6. Additional medicines. If you are traveling with children, then anti-sickness pills, activated charcoal, some kind of Nurofen or a similar syrup to bring down the temperature will not be superfluous. If you are traveling with elderly people, you need to take tablets that they regularly use. In principle, you can buy the necessary medicines along the way, provided that your path will lie in densely populated cities and no one suddenly becomes very ill.

Food on the road

1. Take what you mainly eat. Even if you are not going to eat "on the go", and prefer a restaurant or a roadside cafe, I recommend taking a piece of bread, fresh vegetables and fruits and some meat, something that does not spoil quickly. Sour-milk products, various hard cheeses can satisfy hunger well in case of an unforeseen stop. Situations, as I said, are different, a tire was punctured, a car stalled, fuel ran out ... In each of these situations, you can be left alone with your problem somewhere in the middle of a forest or in a sparsely populated area, in such cases your food supplies will allow you won't die of hunger.
2. I also recommend bringing a thermos of coffee or tea with you. Even if you like fresh Espresso or Americano, which is served in good cafes or restaurants, do not be lazy and take a thermos with you, even if not the best coffee. In unforeseen situations, such stocks of warm drinks will come in handy, they will help you warm up or defeat drowsiness. In addition, if you are traveling this route for the first time, you should take into account the fact that roadside cafes are not everywhere, and besides, not all of them work around the clock. And lastly, it is much more convenient to drink coffee on the go without losing time and money (those who travel often know what prices are in cafes located along the highway)...
3. Drinking water. In addition to the usual sweet drinks, which, by the way, I would not recommend taking on the road (they do not quench thirst, but only increase it), take 5-8 liters drinking water, again, "for every fireman." In addition, you can take mineral water, or any other that you prefer, it is best to take not very sweet, sour drinks with natural flavors. I do not recommend taking alcohol on the road, and neither you nor your passengers have alcohol and the road are incompatible things. A drunk or drunk fellow traveler/passenger can cause a lot of inconvenience, at least he can distract you or interfere with other passengers, or even worse, you will have to make unscheduled stops due to the fault of the drunk.

Useful Gadgets

1. Navigator, radar detector, video recorder. All these devices need no introduction, but it often happens that before a long trip they are forgotten and simply not taken with them. If you do not have such devices, but have a smartphone, I recommend installing a special application on it, which can fully replace a GPS navigator. By the way, the registrar can replace a regular camera or a smartphone with a memory card big size mounted on a panel or glass. In extreme cases, you can borrow this device from a friend or specifically buy an inexpensive DVR.
2. Car chargers and "PowerBank". Nowadays, on the road, almost everyone is doing the same thing - killing time with their newfangled tablets, smartphones and other mobile devices. Each of them, despite powerful batteries, runs out pretty quickly, so you should think about chargers. There are a lot of different "charges" both car and mobile, the so-called "Powerbanks", which allow you to charge your device away from the socket and "220V". Although I personally would recommend enjoying the road itself on the road, in my opinion, while traveling, the road is one of the most interesting and memorable things. Moreover, if you travel in the summer, when the sun is outside and everything is green and pleasing to the eye, it is unlikely that all this can replace a piece of even high-tech plastic ... In short, it's up to you to decide what to admire, but the "charges" should be in in any case, otherwise you risk being left without phones in the middle of the track.
3. For entertainment, you can grab a couple interesting magazines with crosswords or interesting book. Music also helps a lot on the road, so before you go on a long journey, write down your favorite songs on a disk or “flash drive”, which not only help you build and live, but also help you travel :-).

In general, this list can be continued indefinitely and it will look different for everyone. For someone it is important not to forget to take their favorite book on the road, and for someone it is important not to forget the “canister” with WD-40 ... As they say, everyone has their own needs and values, however, no matter how it happens and no matter how cool and your car was not new, do not be too lazy to take the above set of necessary things, who knows what awaits you on the road ... In the end, you will not carry it on your shoulders, but in the event of a breakdown or other "emergency" you will be prepared, but problems will go away not hours, but a matter of minutes.

I have everything, I hope this list will help you not to forget anything and get to your destination quickly and without incident. If it seems to you that the list is not complete, you can supplement it with your own list of necessary things that you should definitely take on a long journey. Happy road to all, as they say, no wand, no nail, no bolt! Bye.

Maybe someone is going on a long journey, here's a list for you
(forgot to add that you still need a trailer)

Going on a long journey, additionally grab the following.

1. Optional tool kit:

- big hammer

- screwdrivers with flat and cross-shaped blades in three sizes - small, medium and large (power);

- chisel;

- a set of heads from "8" to "32" with extensions 125 and 250 mm, a knob, a ratchet and a universal joint (domestic, European or American production);

- a key for bleeding the brakes and a thin hose 15–20 cm long;

- hacksaw for metal;

- a file with a notch of medium size;

- additional mounting blade;

- a coil of knitting wire;

- a piece of thick cardboard for the manufacture of gaskets;

- several screw clamps of different diameters;

- a piece of sandpaper.

2. Stand for a jack - a wooden block 40x250x250 mm, a stand (such as a "tragus") for working under a car.

3. A can of engine oil (1 or 4 liters in a package). Moreover, for a 1000 km run for a new car that has not been run-in, take 4 liters, for the past 50,000 km - 1 l, for the past 100,000 km - 2 l, with a mileage of over 100,000 km - 4 l.

4. Coolant canister 1 l (in winter - 5 l).

5. Liquid for topping up in the power steering - 1 l.

6. Oil for topping up in the gearbox - 1 l.

7. A bottle of brake fluid.

8. A tube of grease Litol-24.

9. Canister with gasoline - 10 liters.

10. Hose for pouring gasoline.

11. Additive to the fuel to increase the octane number (based on two full gas stations).

12. Means for removing bituminous stains from the body.

13. Means for removing adhering insects from the windshield.

14. Special kit for repairing tubeless tires without stripping or wheel sealant.

15. At least one wiper blade.

16. Ignition module for one cylinder.

17. Proven thermostat.

18. Oil and petrol resistant sealant.

19. Repair kit for muffler repair.

20. A set of spare lamps (half of all lamps installed on the vehicle, excluding repetitive ones).

21. New brake pads (two each for disc and drum brakes).

22. A set of coupling springs for drum brake shoes (for one brake mechanism).

23. Brake hoses (there are hoses of different sizes on the car, have one of each size).

24. A pair of wheel bolts.

25. A box with bolts, nuts and washers (two or three pieces from M5 to M10).

26. In winter - a glass defroster and a “liquid key” for locks.

27. In winter - snow chains or a bag of sand.

28. Wide transparent adhesive tape (for repairing hoses and broken glass).

29. Lantern on batteries or accumulators and a spare set of batteries for it.

30. Roulette (may come in handy in case of an accident).

31. Box of matches, hatchet.

32. Strong rope or cord.

33. Thread work gloves.

34. Something from work clothes.

35. Hand cleaner.

36. Carpet for work under the car.

37. Soft pencil, several sheets of paper or notepad.

Car trips of various lengths are quite a common thing for many Togliatti residents. I'm not talking about regular trips several tens of kilometers long to garden plots, because for some of our countrymen even a thousand-kilometer throw to Moscow is not a problem at all. But in summer period, vacation period, the mileage in only one direction can increase to several thousand kilometers. Considering that, in addition to the driver, as a rule, there are women and children in the car, this is no longer a joke. Of particular concern are those travelers whose cars are equipped with fuel injection systems. This material is intended for them.

Alexander Kostyanov,
candidate technical sciences

The ever-increasing international requirements for the toxicity of exhaust gases from road transport have led to the fact that the "good old" carburetor is no longer able to provide the necessary exhaust cleanliness. So, whether we like it or not, the future belongs to electronically controlled fuel injection systems (as they are popularly called - "injectors").

Almost all cars of the VAZ "tenth" family currently roll off the assembly line with injection engines. The proportion of such cars is also growing among Samar. However, many car owners still experience some fear of the "injector". In our opinion, this comes from a lack of awareness, so let's try together to understand this "mysterious" injection.

The first injection VAZ cars were equipped with General Motors design systems. Their main element was the "foreign" controller (electronic engine control unit) GM ISFI 2S or the domestic "January 4.1.". Then there was a "boshezation" of VAZ, BOSCH MP 1.5.4 controllers appeared on the machines. or "January 5.1.". The BOSCH 7.0 HFM controller stands somewhat apart, designed for cars equipped with an oxygen sensor, a converter and a gasoline vapor recovery system (which is one hundred percent of cars with sixteen-valve VAZ-2112 engines and some with eight-valve VAZ-2111 engines).

The remaining components and parts of the engine management system can also be either manufactured by GM, or Bosch, or Russian. The main feature of the operation of "injectors" of any design is that the complete inoperability of the engine occurs only if the controller, electric fuel pump or crankshaft position sensor fails. In the event of a malfunction of all other sensors, the system starts to work according to a “backup” program that provides the possibility of further movement, and the “Check engine” lamp lights up on the instrument cluster. In this case, GM systems allow you to diagnose faults yourself. BOSCH controllers and "January 5.1." are diagnosed only with the help of a special device at the service station or by some types on-board computers(our newspaper wrote about them).

I'll take it with me on the road...

Based on the foregoing, as well as the experience of operating injection machines, it is possible to determine a list of those spare parts that you need to take with you on a long journey.

So, part number 1 is the crankshaft position sensor. Given that its size and price are small, and failure leads to complete engine inoperability, we consider the presence of this sensor in the spare parts kit to be simply mandatory. And it is much better that it be imported (GM). Domestic, unfortunately, are still less reliable. "Dzheemovsky" is suitable for all injection systems currently used by the Volga Automobile Plant.

With part number 2, there are more problems. The module of the electric fuel pump and the space in the trunk will take a lot, and it "bites" at the price. So to take or not to take? So that in each real case get an answer to this question you need to know the following.

GM electric fuel pumps fail almost instantly, "grabbing" air instead of gasoline. This usually happens when driving with the fuel reserve light in the tank on. Is it better to carry an expensive spare pump with you or constantly monitor the presence of gasoline in the tank? This is for everyone to decide for themselves.

A similar unit from BOSCH does not have this disadvantage: "smart" electronics automatically turn off the pump when there is a shortage of gasoline. However, both electric fuel pumps are not immune from the presence of mechanical impurities (or simply dirt) and water in the fuel itself. Therefore, we strongly recommend that you refuel gasoline into the tank through a fine mesh, in no case use the services of "suspicious" gas stations, and even more so lone tankers standing on the sides of the roads. Believe me, the desire to save a little can lead to additional costs, and considerable ones.

Since the conversation turned to the quality of gasoline, the following should be noted. An oxygen sensor (lambda probe) and an exhaust gas converter (and we remind you that they are used on all cars with sixteen-valve engines) are absolutely incompatible with leaded gasoline. Moreover, not only the filling of several liters of leaded gasoline into the tank leads to the complete failure of these devices, but even the ingress of a tiny fraction of tetraethyl lead. And this can happen if the container (railway tanker, fuel truck, tank at a gas station or even an ordinary canister) was used for storing leaded gasoline for at least some time before pouring unleaded gasoline into it!

Therefore, if your route will pass far from the "centers of civilization", it is advisable to remove both the oxygen sensor and the converter from the exhaust system altogether. True, in this case, you will have to reprogram the controller "brains" and install a CO potentiometer in the system. By the way, about the controller. All of them are quite reliable, so it is hardly advisable to carry this node with you. That's only if you are traveling with a company of several cars and take one controller for all.

But what about "arsonists"?

But what are we all about fuel injection? Indeed, on "injection" machines, the controller also controls the ignition system. In this respect, the following should be kept in mind.

For spark plugs for injection engines, VAZ provides a gap of 1.0 + -1.1 mm, and spark plugs for sixteen valves also have a different turnkey size. Domestic candles are not very reliable, so it is better to immediately replace them with imported ones. Instead of A17DVRM spark plugs on eight-valve engines, it is advisable to use BOSCH WR7DC, BERU 14R-7D, CHAMPION RN9YC, EYQUEM 707LSX, MARELLI CW7LPR, MOTORGRAFT AGR22C, NGK BPR6ES. Well, the "sixteen-valve" AU17DVRM are replaced by BOSCH FR7DCX, BERU 14FR-7DUX, CHAMPION RC9YC4, EYQUEM RFC58LS, MOTORGRAFT AGPR32C1, NGK BCPR6ES-11.

Ignition modules on injection engines are used either from GM or Russian. The first ones are very expensive, but they enjoy the well-deserved fame of an "indestructible" part. Domestic ones are not so reliable, but more affordable. The question of whether it is worth taking the ignition module with you on the road is decided in the same way as with the controller: it is most advisable to have one module for several cars.

We're going, we're going, we're going...

But now the candles have been replaced, spare parts and components are carefully packed and placed in the trunk, it's time to hit the road.

I would like to remind travelers a few general rules operation of injection engines. Systems with feedback(i.e. with the presence of an oxygen sensor and a neutralizer) have the ability to "self-learn", i.e. constantly adjust to the specific features of the engine. Therefore, you should not disconnect the battery while parking, because in this case the controller will immediately “forget” everything that it has “learned” before, and a new “self-learning” will take about two hours, during which the engine will not be optimal.

The fuel injection system allows the engine to work immediately after starting without "failures", therefore, the movement can be started without a warm-up delay. One condition: the engine must have good oil.

Without fear of repeating ourselves, let us once again remind you that the owner of an injection car should not save on gasoline. It is necessary to refuel only at "respectable" gas stations, in addition, it is very desirable that gasoline enters the tank through a fine mesh.

But what if the "Check engine" light comes on? Most importantly, stay calm. As mentioned above, unless it is a failure of the electric fuel pump or crankshaft position sensor, your car will continue to be able to go further. If the BOSCH system is installed on it, then at the nearest service station, where the necessary diagnostic equipment is available, the car will be “diagnosed” as to which sensor has failed.

Well, the GM system will allow you to independently conduct "field" diagnostics. To do this, jumper contacts "a" and "b" in the diagnostic connector. The "Check engine" light will immediately turn off, and then begin to issue trouble codes.

First, the light should flash like this: "flash", a short pause, "two flashes" - code "12". The threefold repetition of the code "12" indicates the operability of the diagnostic system.

The following are the fault codes in the order of their numbers (each three times):
"13" - malfunction of the oxygen sensor;
"14" ("15") - high (low) coolant temperature;
"19" - malfunction of the crankshaft position sensor;
"21", "22" - malfunctions of the position sensor throttle valve;
"24" - no vehicle speed sensor signal;
"34" - malfunction of the mass air flow sensor;
"35" - error idle move;
"42" - malfunction of the ignition circuit;
"43" - malfunction of the detonation dampening system;
"44" ("45") - the definition of a poor (rich) mixture;
"49" - leakage of the intake system;
"51" - calibration device error;
"55" - lack of fuel at full load;
"61" - violation of the oxygen sensor.
In conclusion, I would like to say the following. Everything new, unusual usually scares. However, as already mentioned, a real alternative to fuel injection systems on cars in this moment No. Therefore, in the very near future, the entire domestic industry will switch to the production of only "injector" machines, and not far off and a complete transition to the use of feedback systems. So you should not complain about life, but you just need to get acquainted with injection systems, study their strengths and weak sides. As a person who "wound" more than one thousand kilometers on VAZ cars with injection during their testing period, I can say with confidence: "It's not so scary, this injection, which gives the car owner much more pluses than minuses."

It has been more than two months since the last blog post was written. And more than a month has passed since I decided to go with my family to the sea on my Kalina. Why did you decide to drive? Yes, because it is at least two or even three times cheaper than traveling by train or bus.

It was estimated in advance that gasoline would have to be spent in the region of 5,000 rubles per 1000 km. It was all in theory, but as for practice, it turned out the following:

• traveled 2200 km
• average consumption for this run is 5.3 liters per 100 kilometers
• spent gasoline 116.6 liters
• in terms of rubles (with the condition of refueling AI-95 in my case, 38 rubles on average) came out 4430 rubles

It actually turned out to be quite budgetary, especially if you keep the average speed no more than 110 km / h. But I’ll tell you about speed modes a little lower ... but for now, about preparation.

Preparing Kalina for a long trip

A few days before the trip, I decided to inspect the car and bring to mind some points, namely: tighten the handbrake, replace the rear brake pads if necessary, check the hodovka for backlash and extraneous sounds.

When tightening the handbrake, the following problem was discovered - the cable was stretched almost to the maximum, but the handbrake did not hold well. It was decided to change the pads, and when I removed the brake drums, another problem came to light - both the right and left sides of the brake cylinders flowed. As a result, they were replaced with new ones along with the pads.

All ECM sensors seemed to be working, but since I have a whole warehouse of spare parts in my garage for front wheel drive, it was decided to take with them all the sensors, the ignition coil and the candles. Also, in addition to electronics and electrics, the following: a brake hose, a rear brake cylinder, two front ones, and even a rear hub -)) In general, quite a lot of spare parts fit in a small bag from under the compressor, which could be very useful on the road in case breakdowns.

Also, in the trunk was a 5-liter canister of antifreeze. After all, summer, heat, traffic jams at the entrance to the sea could play bad joke, so taking up free space with a small canister was not superfluous.

From home to the sea without stops* and rest!

The departure was pre-planned for 6 pm in order to arrive at our destination approximately early in the morning, namely Gelendzhik. It is in this resort town it was decided to go. As for the city of departure, I initially left Stary Oskol to Alekseyevka, Belgorod Region, and the very next day I left there on the road.

So, on June 30, 2016 at 6 pm we were still in Alekseevka, of course, the path was laid through Rossosh, Boguchar, Shakhty, and so on to Rostov-on-Don. At that time, there was a road repair on a small section of the road to Rossosh, but in general, it was possible to drive without problems and without traffic jams! Having left Rossosh, the road is certainly not ideal to Boguchar, but without pits and potholes, albeit narrow.

I think many people noticed that I wrote "non-stop" .... Of course, I had to stop, because you can’t drive 1100 km on one tank, but only for refueling. While refueling, it was possible to drink a couple of sips of coffee, although even without it I didn’t really feel like sleeping.

After leaving the M4 Don highway, it became more interesting to drive, although there were many sections with repairs, and the passing lane was thrown into the oncoming lane for several kilometers. But the closer we were to Rostov, the less problems there were with the road surface.

But the most interesting thing began for us around 10 pm, when Rostov was flooded with heavy rains. It was on the night of June 30 to July 1 that the city was flooded, and unfortunately there were even human casualties. The photo below is taken from open sources.

But fortunately, we managed to get around the most terrible floods, as we kept our way along the bypass. Of course, quite a few cars didn’t even dare to take a detour, but it was possible to move forward slowly, without sudden movements. When we passed Rostov and moved away from it for about 50 km, it was already possible to drive at a more or less normal speed.

When we drove up to Krasnodar, it was already dawn, and judging by the rest of the way in the navigator, there were no more than three hours to go.

Friends who recently made the same route warned that if you go through Dzhubga, you can get stuck in a traffic jam, as the road was being repaired in some areas. Of course you could listen smart people and go through Novorossiysk, but we are not looking for easy ways -)))

As we were promised, we had to stand in traffic jams for a while, but not more than 10 minutes, which was very pleasing! In total, having traveled almost 1100 km, we reached Gelendzhik around 7 o'clock in the morning.

In general, the road was certainly long, but even without rest it is quite possible to ride these 1100 km. The earth then floats a little underfoot, but after a minute everything passes :-)

As for the rest itself, everything was very even nothing - they found housing in half an hour. By the way, about housing: if someone goes for the first time, you will immediately be surrounded by local “dzhigits” and will offer super-offers, cheap and close to the sea, etc. But these are best avoided. Just choose the closest street to the sea, and feel free to ring every door of the house. 99% of all houses on the coast rent rooms.

Of course, one house is divided into many rooms and it is possible to find a suitable option literally on the first try. Unless, if you don’t agree on the price with the owner, then you can look at the neighbors. But for a room with a bed, bedside table, wardrobe, TV, shower and toilet, you will be charged from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles. For example, we paid 1800 rubles a day, but the conditions were excellent - the furniture was new, all the amenities in the room, 2 minutes from the sea. Parking in the yard for 5-6 cars, so I didn’t have to worry about my Kalina.

As for the way back, everything went well, of course, there were cameras on the way (mostly stationary on bridges), but fortunately, not a single fine came from them, since 99% of the way on their Kalina moved strictly according to the rules , respecting the markings and speed limits. They didn’t stop at the posts anywhere, there were no breakdowns - as they say, “neither a nail, nor a wand.”